El Calafate, Argentina: Los Glaciares National Park

Mother Nature really is a show off.  The first time I saw a photo of the Perito Moreno Glacier, I just knew that I would have to go see it in person.  So, last Thanksgiving, Chad and I made the trek to (almost) the end of the world, to go see this beauty for ourselves.  It did NOT disappoint.

Perito Moreno is located in Los Glaciares National Park in the Santa Cruz Provence of Argentina. It is one of the most visited places of Argentinian Patagonia. It is just one of 48 glaciers that make up the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, which is the third largest fresh water reserve in the world. It is one of the world’s very few expanding glaciers.

We spent two nights in El Calafate before we headed to Chile to see the “real” Patagonia. We came here just for this glacier.  The town of El Calafate is small, but cute.  There are plenty of restaurants and shops.  It reminds me of a small ski town.  However, there is not much else to do in El Calafate.

The Logistics

To visit this natural wonder is no easy (or cheap) feat.  You have to get to El Calafate, Argentina, and that, in and of itself, is a full day of travel. We left Miami, and arrived in Buenos Aires.  From there we boarded a flight to El Calafate, but that flight was not direct. Fourteen hours of flying time later, we arrived in El Calafate.

After a travel day like that, most people would want to get to their hotel and rest.  But, we (well, I) am not most people.  I had the image of that magnificent glacier in my mind.  It was late in the day, so I was pretty sure I’d have her all to myself if we went to visit her now.  So, we hired a taxi, and we were on our way!

I was right! We arrived an hour before the park closed, and hardly anyone was left!  The ride from El Calafate to the park is about an hour by car.  It costs about $30 USD per vehicle to enter the park (cash only). The taxi ride was about $90 USD.

The other options to visit Perito Moreno is to either take a tour or to take a bus.  The trip takes about 90 minutes by bus. You will likely have to book your tickets one day in advance.  Make sure that you specify that you want to see the Perito Moreno glacier because there is also a seven hour route to a town called Perito Moreno. If you end up there, you are not seeing a glacier. If you take the bus, it will cost about $20 USD for the ticket, and you will also have to pay about $20 USD to enter the park (cash only).

 Visiting The Glacier

There are a couple of different ways to experience this glacier.  One is to simply visit the pretty expansive boardwalk.  There are several viewing platforms at different levels that give you great vantage points. Every 10 to 20 minutes, a piece of the glacier breaks off an falls into the water.  It is thrilling to see.

You can also take a boat ride that takes you close to the glacier, but I don’t think it offers the best views. Kayaking tours are also available.

In my opinion, the best way to visit Perito Moreno is to trek it!  We did the mini trekking experience, and we loved it! First, it was a super cool experience.  Second, it was not that physically demanding, but it is a physical activity. Third, it was an all inclusive experience because it combined a boat tour, trekking on the actual glacier for an hour, a little bit of hiking in the park, and ended with a visit to the boardwalk.

First, we loaded onto a boat that took us to the base from which we would trek.

On the way, we got to see the glacier from the boat.

Once we got to the base, we did a mini hike to the base camp.

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On the way, we passed by a glacier beach!

Once we got to the base camp, it was time to get fitted for crampons!

And then it was time to trek!

Getting used to walking in crampons was a challenge at first, but the ice was firm. As we trekked, we saw ice caves and ice pools!

Towards the end of the trek, we stopped for some snacks and refreshments: glacier water and adult beverages with glacier ice!

On the trek back, we had some amazing views.

When we got off the ice, we hiked back to the camp for lunch with a view!

After lunch, we boarded the boat and then were transported to the boardwalk to see the  glacier that we just trekked!

This was one of our favorite experiences in Patagonia.  I highly recommend the trek!

The Wardrobe

The weather in Patagonia is notoriously unpredictable. They say that you can experience all four seasons in one day.  We certainly found that to be the case in Chile, but not so much on the Argentinian side.

We went during their summer months, which are our winter months in the U.S. Even though it was summer, it was still cold.  Your best bet is to layer. Long sleeve shirts, sweaters, and wind and water proof jackets are a must.

If you are doing the mini trek, you will want warm leggings or hiking pants, thick hiking socks, sturdy hiking boots (not sneakers), and a thick pair of waterproof gloves. Ear warmers, beanies, sunglasses, and sunscreen are also a must.

If you are not hiking, a comfortable pair of sneakers is fine as the boardwalk is pretty flat and in great condition. This list is sufficient for Perito Moreno.  If you are moving on to Chile, you will need some additional items, which I will detail in my next post.

I hope this post has inspired you to put Perito Moreno on your bucket list.  In my next post, we will move on to the Chilean side of Patagonia.

 

Living Life To The Fullest: In Memory Of A Friend And Great Adventurer

“I can’t believe that we would lie in our graves, wondering if we had spent our living days well.”

Lyrics from Lie In Our Graves, Dave Matthews Band.

You always hear these adages, encouraging you to live life to the fullest.  To live with no regrets.  But what does that really mean, and, honestly, how many of us really heed that advice? How many people do we know that actually live these full lives?

I recently lost a friend in a tragic and unexpected way.  To me, he was the living embodiment of what it means to live life to the fullest, and to never take a single day for granted.  He was the one person I knew that lived these truths.

Neither my friend’s identity nor the details of his death are important.  What is important is the person that he was.  He was the kind of guy that had seemingly lived 100 interesting lives.  I met him 10 years ago in law school.  We were in the same section, and, if you know anything about law school, you know that means that we spent the next year together because we had the exact same schedule– every class, every day for a whole year. We bonded over our mutual love for travel and for animals, dogs specifically.

He was the kind of guy that basically excelled at everything he did, but not in an annoying way. In an inspiring way. He attended the Portuguese Air Force Academy where he graduated first in his class. He had a career as a military pilot and as an airline pilot for one of the largest airline companies in the U.S.  He was an accomplished private, commercial, instrument and ATP rated pilot as well as a Gold Seal Flight Instructor. He once told me that he enrolled in law school as a result of a bet/dare from his wife.  True to form, he was accepted to the best law school in the State of Florida and graduated second in our class, booking almost every class he took (non-lawyer translation: at the end of every class in law school, they give out an award (often endowed), called a book award, to the person who has the highest grade in that class). I always wondered if finishing second annoyed him since he was so used to being first.

He had an affinity for adventure and speed.  He loved fast (German) cars and fast motorcycles, and had both. He also loved to fly. He was the only person I knew in law school who had a plane, and that includes the faculty and staff.  He loved taking his fellow classmates up in the plane.  Two of my girlfriends and I once flew to his home to meet his wife and puppies (all 5 of them) and have dinner.  He let me take control and fly the plane on the way back, which was so exciting because I had never before (or since) flown a plane.  I saw a light in the distance and told him that he should probably resume control of the plane since there was some air traffic up ahead.  He laughed and said, “That’s not a plane, Anastasia; that’s a planet!” Whoops!

He was the kind of guy that always had time for conversation (especially if the conversation was a debate). He as not afraid to take a position, even an unpopular one, and he stood by his convictions. He believed in himself. He was also the kind of guy that never said no. He was always willing to help.  If you were struggling to understand a concept, he would take time and explain it to you the way he understood it.  I sat next to him for an entire month during our bar preparation course, which I was in charge of running.  He was early every morning, ready to help. He was an authentic and genuine soul.

After law school, we kept in touch through Facebook.  He briefly worked at a law firm, but hated the structure, so he started his own firm with his wife who was already a lawyer. He also provided safety consulting services to the offshore and land-based oil and gas industry. In his spare time, he volunteered his time and his plane to provide free air transportation to financially distressed people with medical needs and to health care organizations through a non-profit charitable organization.

When the medicine is fully absorbed, it leads to a healthy erection of the penis. generic discount levitra tablet viagra appalachianmagazine.com Impotence treating meditation aids you forgetting about all the active consumption of other drugs, so that he can deal with the issues of erectile dysfunction in you. Do not let erectile dysfunction curb your physical viagra generic sildenafil and mental health. generic viagra pill The price is also within affordable range. As a law school graduation gift, his wife got him a climbing trip to Kilimanjaro.  He was certainly no stranger to travel or to adventure. He  was a skydiver, mountain biker, sea-kayaker, and scuba diver. But, I think this gift began his love for the climb. My law school friends and I followed his travels on social media, and every time I would open Facebook, he would be in some other corner of the world, conquering some unimaginable feat.  Waldo had nothing on this guy.

Over the course of two and a half years, he completed the Seven Summits Challenge.  That means that he summited the highest mountain on each of the seven continents: Mount Everest in Asia, the Aconcagua in South America, Denali in North America, Mount Kilimanjaro in Africa (twice), Mount Elbrus in Europe, Vinson in Antarctica, and Puncak Jaya in New Guinea (Australia).  Because there is a debate about whether Mount Kosciuszko or Puncak Jaya is the tallest in Australia, he climbed both. I teasingly told him that I would be impressed only after he also summited K2. He matter-of-factly told me that he already summited the highest mountain in Asia and the world. Touche.

In between climbing mountains, he had some other pretty epic adventures, including gorilla trekking in Uganda and Rwanda, expeditions to Antarctica, and 100s of “trips of a lifetime” to the Galapagos Islands, Australia, South America, North America, Europe, Asia, and Africa. It seems he that he always immersed himself with the locals wherever he went, and he always found dogs to love all over the world. His pictures are National Geographic amazing, because he was, of course, a professional level photographer. He was my travel icon, and we often compared notes on travel, although my travels paled in comparison to his.

On the rare occasion that he wasn’t off on some bucket list journey, he spent time at his second home in the Bahamas, which he built and dedicated to his squad of adorable Cavalier King Charles Spaniels.  In my next life, if I can’t come back as him, I want to come back as one of his dogs. He would load up the pups in his plane, put the  protective earmuffs on them, and fly them down to their island home, Sandy Paws. They would spend time exploring the island in their golf cart and taking to the seas in their boat, the Barkardi. He and his dogs would go paddle-boarding. These dogs live a charmed life, and I loved it.

He got involved in a local charity in the Bahamas that built homes for and fed stray Potcake dogs on the island, which is a mixed breed dog commonly found on the Caribbean Islands.  He flew plane loads of supplies to the island from the States to support this cause and the these dogs. He loved all animals and our environment, but he especially loved dogs. He had tattoos of the face of every one of his dogs on his body. I judge the greatness of a person by the way they treat animals, and he was one of the greatest.

The last country he visited was Bolivia, where he was hiking up a volcano. Before he died, he was working on completing the Explorers Grand Slam, which he planned to start next month. That involves skiing to both the North and South poles. I am sad that such a great adventurer will never get to complete this feat.

He was truly the most interesting person I have ever known (and probably will ever know). His life was remarkable, inspirational, and one that deserves celebration. He lived life to the fullest. The last time I spoke to my friend was on March 15.  He died four days later.  I never got to tell him how much I admired him, and for that I am sorry.

As news of his death spread, his Facebook wall was loaded with pictures and messages of condolences from people around the world. Literally, around the world: his climbing friends, his Island friends, his local community, his law school friends, even people who had met him once in passing.  It is amazing to see the impact and reach that one person had on so many. The messages are similar: “amazing man”, “great human”, “inspiring person”, “authentic”, ” positive, fun-loving and gregarious” “remarkable and wonderful[ly] accomplish[ed]”. In times where humanity can’t seem to agree on anything, scores of people from different cultures, races, and religions seemingly agreed: he was good people.

They say all dogs god to heaven, and if that is true, on March 19, heaven’s dogs met their greatest angel.  I hope that he is resting peacefully in heaven, surrounded by dogs, gazing over the highest and most amazing peaks. I hope he died feeling like he spent his living days well.