Milos, Greece: The Best Kept Secret Of The Cyclades

It’s been a minute since my last post because work and life got in the way.  But, I am back!  And, just in time for your summer vacation plans, I am sharing with you the best kept secret of the Cyclades Islands: Milos.

For most people, a trip to the Greek islands means stops in Santorini and/or Mykonos.  And, as of late, maybe Naxos or Paros.  But, almost nobody goes to Milos.  Quite frankly, I don’t get it.

Unlike its more popular neighbors, Milos feels almost undiscovered.  It has over 70 beaches.

It has the cutest little fishing villages.

It has one of the most dramatic coastlines of any Greek island.

It is where the Venus de Milo was discovered.

Plan Your Visit

Getting There

There are two ways to get to Milos: by plane or by ferry. There are direct flights from Athens on Aegean Airlines. This is the fastest and recommended way to get there.  But, if you are coming from another island, and do not want to route through Athens, then the ferry may be a better option. I think three to four full days is the perfect amount of time to spend on the island.

Where To Stay

There are over 15 villages in Milos.  The most popular are Adamas, Plaka, Trypiti, Klima, Pollonia, and Mandrakia. All are worth a visit, but some are better for staying.

Adamas is one of the biggest villages in Milos, and it is where I recommend you stay.  If you come by ferry, you will likely land in Adamas.  It is also close to the airport. All the sailing tours leave from here as well.  It also has a lot of dining options. This is where we stayed, and we found it be a very convenient base to explore the island.

Another central village with plenty of options for dining and accommodations is Pollonia.

The most picturesque village of Milos is Plaka.  It is also the capital of Milos. It is a walking village, so you won’t find any cars in its center. It is full of restaurants and shops. It also has the iconic cobblestone streets, the colorful doors that most Greek islands are famous for, and an amazing sunset spot.

Klima is where you will find the famous fisherman houses.  If you have your heart set on staying in one of them, then this is where you should stay. Since there are so few, this is probably a pricier option and will require advanced planning.

Getting Around

Milos is larger than you think. I highly recommend renting a car for at least part of your stay.  It is very easy to drive in Milos, and they have automatic options. You can also rent ATVs.  There are plenty of rental shops in Adamas and Pollonia.  Your hotel can likely also arrange a rental for you. Keep in mind that Greece recently started requiring international drivers licenses for car rentals.  We found enforcement to be very sporadic, but it is easy to get the license in the states, so you might as well.  We rented a car for a day, and we are very glad we did.  It gave us the option to visit spots our private tour did not hit and also to revisit spots we really enjoyed.

 

There is a local bus service that is pretty cheap, but the routes are seasonal.  Also, while they hit the major spots, they will not take you off the beaten path.

Taxis are an option, but there are only about 15 total on the island.  As a result, during peak times, there could be quite a wait for a cab.

If you don’t want to rent a car, then consider a private, chauffeured day tour. We used Travel Me To Milos to give us a private day tour on one of the days.  They were fantastic.  They have English speaking guides, and they cover the entire island in an day. We saw beaches, all the villages, and historical spots as well.  They are a full service operation, so they can arrange your accommodations, boat tours, and car rentals, too.

What To Do

If you have three full days on the island, I would spend them as follows: one full day private tour of the island to orient you, one full day sailing tour to give you a different perspective, and one day of exploration on your own with a rental car.

During our private tour, we visited all the archaeological sites, the villages, and most of the beaches.

Visit The Beaches

With over 70 beaches to visit, the possibilities are endless. However, there are at least three that you absolutely cannot miss.

The first is Sarakiniko Beach. It’s the moon beach!  If there was a beach on the moon, it would look just like this. It is the most photographed beach in the Aegean Sea.

You can reach this beach by car or by bus.  There is a gravel parking lot to leave the car and one bus stop.  The beach doesn’t look like much on arrival.  You will have to walk about 10 minutes before you reach the lunar landscape.

Once on the lunar landscape, you have to walk straight for a bit before you almost U-turn left to reach the part on the rocks that allow you access into the ocean.

This is not a typical beach in that there is no sandy area.  There is a small gravel surface at the end of an inlet that acts as the beach part, i.e., the place where you can leave your stuff and head into the water.  Most people just find an area on the smooth white rock and dive in.  If it is shade you are after, you will find old, but dark mining tunnels.  This will serve as the only respite from the sun that beats down on the stark white rock.

A word of caution: the waters on the other side of the inlet are VERY deep.  Also, the Aegean Sea can be very choppy, especially on windy days.  There are NO lifeguards here, so swimming is at your own risk.

We visited this beach twice (once with our private tour and once on our own).  On both days, we saw groups of people jumping off the moon rock and into the deep part of the ocean.  As shown below, there is a small cave you  swim under and reach the rocks to climb back out.

On the first day, the group that jumped had no problem.  On the second day, another group jumped, but did so before planning their exit strategy.  On this day, the sea was particularly rough, and the cave inlet looked like a swirling drain with strong crashing waves onto the jagged rocks.  Despite that they were strong swimmers, it took a group of people (Chad included) to literally rescue these people out of the water before they drowned.

Here’s a little secret that I wish I knew while I was in Milos: because of its location, Sarakiniko has both amazing sunrises and sunsets. I would make it a point to see both.  You can even stargaze at this beach.

The second beach that you cannot miss is Papafragras Beach.  I am sure you have seen this beach on Instagram.

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If you are a reader of this blog and of my Greece posts, you know that all of Greece’s best beaches take some work to reach. Papafragras is no exception.

You can get to the beach by car (there is gravel parking lot) or by bus, although I never saw a bus stop here either of the two times we visited. But the fun begins if you actually want to get into the water.  You have to climb down a very narrow and slippery path to get down to the water.  You have to climb back up to get out.

The last beach that you cannot miss is Kleftiko Bay.  There are two ways to get here, but really only one.  You could technically hike almost two hours each way to reach this beach.  Or, you can sail to it.  I suggest the sail.

Once there, you will get to swim through a network of caves and rock formations.

For a great resource and guide to all of Milos’s beaches, click here.

Visit The Villages

Each little village offers its own unique exploration. In my opinion, there are three villages that you should not miss.

The first is Plaka. Here you will find the most charming cobblestone streets and adorable colorful houses. There are tons of cute little cafes and shops to explore.

For photography, it is best to go in the afternoon while the villagers sleep and the tourists hit the beach. But don’t forget to come back in the evening for sunset and dinner.

The best place to see the sun is either from the church or from Utopia Cafe.

While you are in Plaka, you can visit four of the seven museums on the island, including the Archaeological Museum where you can see a copy of the Aphrodite of Milos statue which was found close to the Ancient Theater of Milos, but now resides in the Louvre. There is a campaign to bring the Venus de Milo home by 2020, which you can learn more about here.

Plaka is about a five minute drive away from the Ancient Theater of Milos and the nearby catacombs.  Both are worth a visit.

No visit to Milos would be complete without a visit to the colorful littler fisherman houses that this island is famous for.  There are two villages that deliver on that front: Klima and Mandrakia.

The more famous of the two is Klima. Here you will find two long rows of traditional multi-colored houses.  This is really just a photo stop, as there is nothing else to really do here. You can catch a pretty nice sunset here as well.

Mandrakia is the other place to see these pretty, colorful houses.  There is also a charming seaside church here that has great views.

Unlike Klima, Mandrakia has more to offer.  There are some fantastic views.

A pretty nice beach area.

And a fresh and delicious seaside tavernas to enjoy.

Spend A Day At Sea

One of the most memorable things you will do in Milos is a day cruise around the island.  That is because there are many places in Milos that are only accessible by boat. We chose to do a private tour with Aquatta Yachting.  It was hands-down the best thing we did on the island.

We boarded the boat early from the port in Adamas.

Our route took us past the fishing villages of Skinopi, Klima, Areti, and Fourkovouni, from where we could see the colorful little houses from the sea.

Our next stop was at Arkoudes, which are two rock formations in the middle of the water. One of them resembles a bear while the other, a rabbit.

We sailed past Firopotamos Beach, Sarakiniko Beach, and Glaronisia, and made our first stop at Polyegos island.  It is here that Chad dove off the boat and right into the water for a swim and some snorkeling.

Up next was Thiorichio and Paliochori, where we passed by the ruins of an old abandoned sulfur mine.

Lunch was prepared for us on-board and was combined with a stop at Gerakas Beach.

After lunch, we headed to Tsigrado Beach on our way to Kleftiko Bay via Gerontas Beach. We finally made it to Kleftiko Bay, where Chad once again jumped off for a snorkel. Here, you are able to swim through various caves.

Our last stop was at Sykia Cave.

On the way back to Adamas, we enjoyed a home cooked dessert and an incredible sunset!

Between our private day tour, our private yacht tour, and the day we spent driving the island on our own, I feel like we saw almost all of beautiful Milos Island. I am not one for crowds, so if you are looking to have a stunning Greek island almost all to your self, come to Milos and come during off season.

Rhodes, Greece: The Island Of The Knights

Rhodes is often overlooked on most people’s Greece itinerary because it’s one of the furthest islands away from the mainland. Also, Rhodes doesn’t have the hype that Santorini and Mykonos have. Most people, especially first-timers to Greece, flock to these touristy islands for the sunsets, white washed buildings, blue domes, and the windmills.

Don’t get me wrong, both Sanotrini and Mykonos, like all of Greece’s islands, are beautiful. But, in my opinion, they lack the authenticity of the Greek culture.  They are  expensive and overrun with tourists and the dreaded cruise boats. Rhodes, on the other hand, is less crowded, more affordable, and, in my opinion, more interesting. It is also a photographer’s dream! Allow me to introduce you to this little gem.

If you read this blog, you already know that I am Greek and that Chad and I visit Greece at least once a year because my dad lives on the island of Crete. Every time we go to Greece, we try to visit new places and new islands in Greece. This year, Rhodes was at the top of our list.

Rhodes is part  and also the capital of the Dodecanese, “The Twelve Islands” (which is a misleading name because the Dodecanese are actually made up of 15 larger islands plus 150 smaller  islands in the southeastern Aegean Sea). It is the largest of these islands. Rhodes is most famous  for the Colossus of Rhodes, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, and the Medieval Old Town of the City of Rhodes has been declared a World Heritage Site. In fact, the Old Town is surrounded by a huge, intact, wall, and there is even a castle!  It’s very A Knight’s Tale; and, even more importantly, it has a look and feel unlike anywhere else you’ll experience in Greece.

Rhodes has a long and rich history. Suffice it to say, there were many things that attracted to us to Rhodes. To get to Rhodes, you can take a very long ferry from Athens or Thessaloniki or you could take an less than an hour flight. I’ll let you guess which option we chose and which we recommend you do as well.
We chose to stay in the Old Town of Rhodes. Old Town is surrounded by medieval walls with seven “gates” (Gate of the Naval Station, Gate of Agios Ioannis, Gate of Agia Ekaterini, Gate of the Apostle Paul, Gate of Amboise, Gate of Agios Athanassios and the Gate of the Port). Today, the gates are the seven entry points into the Old Town. When you enter these gates, you feel as if you have entered another world. I am so glad we chose to stay in the Old Town. It was truly enchanting and much more charming than staying at one of the huge beach resorts in the modern city. You literally feel as though you have entered some sort of enchanted land.

We stayed at a small boutique hotel called Kokkini Porta Rosa (which loosely translates into  the red door) in the Old Town. Now, this is NOT a sponsored post, but I love this hotel (it’s really more of a guest house than a hotel) and its owners (who were just the loveliest, warmest, and most interesting couple) so much that I am going to dedicate part of my post about Rhodes to this fantastic gem because I think this hotel really colored our view of Rhodes in the most positive of ways.

This hotel is a model for what hotels should be. In a world that has become so impersonal, Angela and Nikos, the owners (who have lovingly restored an old home, while staying true to its history), break the mold and have truly created a home away from home.

Every single guest of their small five-suite hotel is treated like family. Angela and Nikos pay the utmost attention to detail. This little hotel is luxury and service re-defined, from the moment you walk in until the moment you check out, with homemade gift in hand.

First, there is no such thing as a bad room.  All the rooms are breathtaking. They are large, they are beautifully appointed with the couple’s own hand-selected furnishings from around the world.  The rooms have every comfort you could ask for, including a pillow menu, luxurious local, organic bath products, and a fully stocked mini bar that is FREE in every room for every guest for your entire stay. You read that right- the mini bar is FREE. Everything in it is FREE! And, there are A LOT of choices, which are replenished daily. Also, the Wi-Fi is strong! Angela and Nikos have anticipated your every need. They literally have thought of every single little detail. Each room comes with a fully stocked beach bag that includes towels, mats, and bottled water.

Also, every single room is assigned a tablet that is pre-loaded and customized to each guest every single day of your stay. Your tablet will have maps, itineraries, places of interest, and restaurants, which are hand-selected by Nikos every day for every single guest based on what you tell him that you are interested in.

The tablet acts as a GPS (which is helpful in the maze-like roads of the Old Town), and a means to communicate directly with Nikos and Angela from anywhere on the island. If you book directly with them, your room comes with a free car rental on a day of your choosing so that you can leave the Old Town and explore other areas of Rhodes, like Lindos.

Every day when you return, Angela and Nikos are there to greet you with a drink in hand and snacks. Every evening, they leave out a full array of cocktails for you to enjoy before or after dinner, including Angela’s homemade limoncello, which is literally the best I have ever had.  Ever. Including the ones we tried in Italy. Even in Positano. Breakfast is included with your room, and you would be a fool to miss it. It is literally the best breakfast I have ever had at a hotel, and Chad and I have stayed at some VERY nice hotels all over the world. Angela serves up a three-course, homemade breakfast. First, she brings you a French pressed coffee or a hand-squeezed juice (all of which are amazing) and an array of bread with homemade jams (which are also amazing).

Your first course will be something sweet and something savory from the local cuisine. This selection will change every day. Your second course is Greek yogurt with fresh fruit and bee pollen and/or honey. Finally, she will cook your eggs to order.

Thus, smoking can leave adverse effects on your health. order viagra online 2. It might make you prone to other health complications. viagra price This drug is said to http://appalachianmagazine.com/2019/09/21/trust-the-climb-wvu-football-proving-coach-brown-is-legit/ levitra cost be convenient medical option for the people & helps them to get it repaired or replaced as the case may be. Erectile dysfunction is a medical condition which comes under Delhi NCR region. viagra side online find out that shop now The presentation is beautiful, the food is delicious, and by the second morning, Angela has your preferences committed to memory. Oh, did I mention that your breakfast is taken in the garden oasis featured above? Also, the hotel is located in a quiet residential district, so there is no noise from cars, bars, restaurants and people, but it is walking distance from all the action.Here’s the best part: this hotel is affordable, especially when you consider what you are getting (breakfast, fully stocked mini bar, daily cocktails, car rental, etc.) and compared to the other options on the island. Hell, even if the hotel was a splurge, I’d spend it! Nikos is a wealth of information about the island, and both Nikos and Angela are truly passionate about what they do, which translates into the guest experience.  Everyone on the island knows them and their hotel. I am quite confident when I say that you will never again stay a hotel that is quite like this one.  I dream about this hotel and coming back. Hats off to Angela and Nikos for creating the ultimate guest experience. If you go (and, I truly insist that you do), please let Angela and Nikos know that I sent you.

After we were done swooning over the hotel, we spent our first full day wandering around the Old Town and taking in all of the beautiful little corners of this charming town. By the way, if you are into doors and floors, then hold on to your britches, because Old Town Rhodes is an assault of charm in the door and floor department. The ancient mosaic stone work on the floors is incredible! And, the doors…I died! On Angela and Nikos’s suggestion (which, by the way, were always spot on), we stopped to eat lunch at this amazing little restaurant and loved the food so much that we came back again, which is VERY rare for us, as we try to eat at as many different places as possible. After lunch, we decided to explore the area outside of the Old Town wall. On our second day, we hired Nick of Rhodes Private Tax Tours to give us a tour of the Rhodes outside of the Old Town and to take us to Lindos to visit the famous Acropolis of Lindos.

Lindos is a resort town with a small (touristy) village at its center, which is pedestrian only.  The village gets pretty crowded as does the Acropolis of Lindos, but it is well worth a visit. I would recommend spending an entire day here so you can go to the Acropolis as early as possible and then have time to explore the little village. You can also overnight in Lindos if you want to enjoy the beach.

However, before we left for Lindos, Nick showed us one of the places where the Colossus of Rhodes was thought to have stood. The Colossus of Rhodes was an enormous statue depicting the city’s patron god, Helios (the god of the sun).  Many believe that this wonder of  the ancient world stood in Mandraki Harbour, and there are rumors that a fundraising effort is underway so that an architect can build a new monument, albeit one five times larger than the original, to straddle the entrance of this harbor. However, there are some theories that because this monument was so important, it did not actually stand at the harbor, but at the Acropolis of Rhodes Lindos is a cute little village that has many shops and small, but stunning churches to explore before you make your way up to the Acropolis of Lindos, a climb that includes several hundred stairs of various heights with no guardrails.  Not to worry, it is totally do-able (if you are wearing the right shoes), the views are incredible, and there are donkeys to assist.

The irony of a Greek bank building being used to store donkey is not lost on me. This is just ripe for Greek financial crisis jokes…like the only ASSets being stored in Greek banks this year…but that’s not funny. I mean, it kind of is, but not really.

I wish we had a little more time to explore this village, but it was pouring that day, so as soon as the sun came out, we hiked up to the Acropolis!

And the views from the Acropolis of Lindos are not too shabby:After Lindos, Nick took us to the cutest little beach side taverna for lunch (which had the most INCREDIBLE views) before we set off to explore other sites around the island, including Filerimos, monastery is dedicated to Virgin Mary that has monuments of the seven stations of the cross and  is overrun with friendly peacocks, and Anthony Quinn Bay, which is a beautiful little bay riddled with controversy and drama. 

Filerimos:

Anthony Quinn Bay:On our third day on the island, we took advantage of the free rental car that came with our room and took to the roads with our tablet to explore other points of interest, such as the Castle of Monolithos, Profitis IliasAncient Kamiros, and the Seven Springs (Epta Piges). Also, in the right season, you can also visit the Valley of the Butterflies. Rhodes is a fairly flat island, so it is easy to drive and navigate. I would highly recommend renting a car for a day or two to do some independent exploring.

Monolithos: Ancient Kamiros: Seven Springs:

Make sure the water is running at the springs before you go because when we went, the water had dried up, so this lovely shot is courtesy of Mr. Google!On our last day, we stayed in the Old Town and visited the Palace of the Grand Master of the Knights of Rhodes. We also walked through the moat, which was kind of cool because you see the Old Town above you and there are a few little nooks to explore.  And, we walked on top of the medieval wall, which had fantastic views of the Old Town below, and the exist was literally in front of our hotel!  Finally, we visited the archaeological museum.

Moat:

Palace:

Medieval wall:

 

Museum:

There are several day trips you can take from Rhodes, including trips to Symi,  Kastellorizo, Alimia, and Chalki Islands. You can also visit Turkey for the day from Rhodes! We didn’t have time to do any day trips on this visit. We do, however, plan to come back to Rhodes to explore more of the island (but really to stay at Kokkini Porta Rosa again) and to visit some of the neighboring islands. Second to Crete, Rhodes is my favorite island in Greece. Add this little medieval gem to your bucket-list.  I promise it will not disappoint!