Exumas, Bahamas: Where Pigs Swim!

OMG, my first blog post!! Judging by the number of likes on my Instagram feed, a lot of you are interested in the Exumas, and since summer is right around the corner and we all have the beach on our minds, I decided to make my first post about our recent anniversary trip to the Exumas, one of the out islands of the Bahamas.

Living in South Florida, the gateway to the Carribbean, you are constantly bombarded with advertisements for the Caribbean Islands.  Chad and I always see this one particular billboard driving south on I-95 that invites you to come swim with the pigs, and we always say as we pass by it “We have got to do that one of these days.”  Well, “these days” came in early April 2016.  Now, I will preface this by saying (and I know I am going to get a lot of comments about this) that I am not a beach vacation kind of girl (by the way, I am going to dedicate a future post to the difference, in my head, between traveling and vacationing.  In case you were wondering, I consider our trip to the Exumas vacationing).  Chad, however, is beach vacation kind of guy.  Let me explain, I was born and raised in South Florida.  I have always lived close to the beach, so for me, it’s not that big of a deal.  That being said, I am happy to (and usually do) add an island/beach component to our travels, but I don’t (with some exceptions) like the island/beach to be the destination.  I want city, sights, restaurants, activities.  On the other hand, Chad was born in Alabama and raised in Alabama and Georgia- (mostly) land locked states.  Beach to Southerners (I quickly learned) is a big deal, like a really big deal.  Put Chad on a beach with a cold (preferably craft) brew, and he’s like a pig in…well you know.  He is happy to lay on a beach and have that be the trip.  So, since this year is Chad’s year to pick our travel spots (more on how we pick our “Where To Next” (see what I did there!) destinations in a future post), I found myself planning a trip to the Exumas.

A few things that I was surprised to learn about the Exumas while I was planning this trip: First, the Exuma Cays are one of the longest (if not, the longest) island chains in the Bahamas.  So, when planning your trip there, you have to make sure to pick a strategic location so that you are close to the major attractions (i.e., swimming pigs, iguanas, nurse sharks, etc.), all of which require a boat to get to.  I recommend either Staniel Cay, home of the Staniel Cay Yacht Club, a literal fixture in the Exumas, or Great Exuma, which is the largest of the cays.  Second, the Exumas are not as easy to get to as some of the other islands of the Bahamas, like Nassau for example.  There are only a few commercial carriers that fly there, usually on sporadic schedules and typically not direct.  The other option is a charter flight, which, as you will see below, may end up being the cheaper option.  Finally, the few resorts (relatively speaking) that are there, book up quickly, so if you want to go to the Exumas, plan in advance.  For example, I started researching and planning this trip around September 2015.  I started making calls to properties around November 2015.  The soonest we could get three consecutive nights in one room (that is, without having to switch rooms in the middle of our stay due to availability) was April 2016, and it wasn’t even high season yet!  My point is plan early!

We decided to stay at Staniel Cay Yacht Club (“SCYC”) in Staniel Cay.  There are many reasons for this choice.  First, in my opinion, the location is ideal as it is literally across from Big Majors Cay, a.k.a. Pig Beach, which was the whole purpose of the trip to begin with.  It is also a very short boat ride from the iguanas at Bitter Guana Cay, and it is also a 20-30 minute boat ride to Compass Cay, where you can swim with and pet nurse sharks. Second, SCYC makes it so easy to plan your getaway.  They own their own private charter plane, Watermakers Air, that brings you right to Staniel Cay from Fort Lauderdale Executive Airport (more on this below).  Third, once you are there, your room comes with a 13 foot skiff (that’s a boat, people, and I will tell you more about this below), and you can purchase a meal plan (which I highly recommend), so all your meals and drinks (except alcohol) are also included.  About this last part, I am NOT an all inclusive kind of girl.  I do not want to be limited in where or what I eat because I am a foodie.  But, I made an exception here because 1) there is literally only one restaurant on Staniel Cay other than the one at SCYC, 2) the food plan includes the entire menu, and 3) it turned out to be the more economical option.  So, now that we’ve planned our trip, let’s take it, shall we?!

Chad and I are not morning people, EXCEPT when it comes time to travel.  We woke up before the crack of dawn on a Thursday morning to make our way to paradise (by the way, I recommend you Uber to Watermakers hangar because the parking, while free, is limited) via a 7:00 a.m. flight.  Watermakers offers private charters wherein you charter the whole plane and fly when you want on scheduled flights twice a day to Staniel Cay – once in the morning and once in the afternoon.  With the later option, you buy a seat on a scheduled charter flight, and the cost is around $600 per person.  If you don’t see a scheduled flight that meets your needs, just call them.  With some advance planning, they may open a flight for you. Did I mention that they have a delightful hangar and lounge space?  See the photos above.  As soon as you walk in you feel relaxed.  There are lovely photos of the place you are about to visit, nice, clean restrooms, and snacks! Someone will greet you at the door and take care of your bags for you.  When it’s time to go, the pilot will come in an invite you to follow him on board.

Okay, back to the business of getting there. Here are some things you should know:  First, there is no airport security at all so there are no lines and no getting there several hours ahead of time.  Relax, you are about to be on island time.  There are some baggage limits though.  Each person can bring a bag that weighs up to 35 lbs. (you can also send cargo or pay for additional bags, and you can bring your dog for $2 per pound), but the 3 fl. oz. rule does not apply.  This is important because since your alcohol is not included in the meal plan you bought, and alcohol in the Bahamas is expensive, each person can bring a full bottle of something with them (according to customs), and I suggest you do this.  For what it’s worth, you will clear customs somewhere in the Bahamas prior to landing in Staniel Cay.  For us, on the way there it was Eleuthera (which is also gorgeous, worthy of a trip in its own right, and will also be the subject of a future blog post), and on the way back it was Chubb Cay (this was not so much for customs reasons, but because there is some rule about commercial charter flights not being able to fly direct). When you arrive at the place at which you will clear customs, you get off the plane (but your bags do not) and someone asks whether your have fruits, nuts, or more than on bottle of alcohol.  You get your stamp and you are on your way again.

Okay, so here is a picture of the plane you will be flying on.  It’s a prop plane, so it doesn’t go as fast as a jet.  So, while in a jet, you’d be there in 30 minutes, in this bad boy, it takes a little over an hour, so bring something to do or sleep.

Only one person is allowed on the staircase at a time, and you cannot stand fully upright when you get in (I’m not trying to freak you out if you are a nervous flyer.  I just want you to know.  It’s okay, you will be okay.  It is totally worth it, trust me).  The plane fits about 12 passengers and 2 pilots.  We got front row!  We had one pilot and a total 7 passengers.  We picked up 2 more in Eleuthera when we made our customs stop.

As you fly over the Bahamas, and you get closer to the Exumas, you have some amazing vistas from the window.  In my opinion, the better viewing is on the right side of the plane.

After about an hour and a half, we arrived!

This is the airport:

That’s right, no building, no officials, nothing.  Just an airstrip (next to the ocean, I might add), and a park pavilion where people wait for their flights.  By the way, there is another charter company that flies to Staniel Cay.  It is called Flamingo Air (see below).  It is also prop, and on this plane, the pilot climbs in through the window.  I am not kidding.  The pilot I saw doing this was a big boy.  I was not sure he was going to make it.  Anyway, on that airline you will be greeted by a woman who will open the trunk of her old car and produce an old school scale, like the one that has the tray on top and a needle on the bottom that tells the weight.  You know, like they used to have in grocery stores to weigh fruits, veggies, and meats.  For out going flights, she will weigh your bags (and sometimes you) so she can figure out how to distribute weight on the plane! We did not have this experience on Watermakers, and it was fun to watch, but I digress.

Upon arrival, you will collect your bags from the runway, and someone with a golf cart from SCYC will pick you up and transport you to the property. Chances are that your room will not  be ready when you get there, but that is okay because you wore your bathing suit on the plane and you are ready to hit the high seas!  Once Renee checks you in, she will store your bags, gas up your skiff, give you the handy walkie-talkie, and make sure you get a quick tutorial on how to use your boat, and you will be off!  But, before you do this, make sure you stop by the restaurant to do the following things: 1) select your dinner seating from the two available seatings, 6:00 p.m. and 8:00 p.m. and place your dinner order (which must be placed by noon – you have to do this everyday you are there, so do it at breakfast and don’t forget!), 2) order your boxed lunch that you will take with you on your adventure (you can also eat on property and choose from their lunch menu, but chances are you will be out all day on your boat and you are not going to want to come back for lunch.  Also, it’s much more fun to stop at a sandbar that suddenly appears in the middle of the ocean and have the whole thing to yourself for your picnic!  Just so you know, at breakfast every morning, they will ask you if you want to order your boxed lunch and it will be packed and ready for you in a cooler by the time you are done.  It is a selection of sandwiches and it comes with an apple, chips, and a drink.  Feel free to pack the cooler with the snacks you brought with you), 3) collect your scraps to feed the pigs and the iguanas (they will usually ask you at breakfast if you need scraps for the day or you can ask and they will deliver a bag of scraps for your adventures!), and 4) collect your snorkel gear and life jackets (safety first!) from the shed.

Here are some views of the overall property:

There are two kinds of accommodations: the bungalows and the cottages.  Each have their own set of pros and cons.  They are all basically the same price, but availability is sporadic.  The bungalows are newer: one bed/one bath rooms that look like a hotel.  You access them via the raised docks that are shown in the first picture above.  The pros of these rooms are that they are newer, more updated rooms that are all waterfront, and they come with the “better” boats (see below).  In other words, these skiffs have covers and are slightly bigger.  If you are a couple, this is a great option if it is available.  The cons are that the rooms are smaller, and while waterfront, they are on active docks, meaning it is likely that there will be a huge mega yacht parked in front of your room blocking the water view.  After all, this is a yacht club and some pretty big, impressive boats dock here, which by the way, is another accommodation option if you are the owner of one such beauty or are planning to charter one.  The other land-based option is the cottages.  The pros are that these accommodations are much larger and can sleep a minimum of 4, with some sleeping even more.  Most of the cottages have balconies on the water and most have bedrooms and bathrooms on both floors (for the two story units).  Also, it is gated off from the rest of the property, so it is a little quieter, and the pool is right outside your doorstep.  Also, while there are some docks behind some of the cottages, they are used for that cottage’s skiff, so there is no massive yacht blocking your view.  The cons, however, are that some of these cottages need a little updating and these cottages come with the smaller, uncovered boats.  But, if you are a family or a group, this is the best option.  Due to availability, we booked the Key Lime cottage.

Key Lime cottage balcony:

Views from the Key Lime cottage, including the sunset view:

These docks service the cottages and these are the boats that come with the cottages (not that covered one, but the uncovered one on the lift):

These skiffs are the ones that are assigned to the bungalows  (See the land mass back there?  The pigs are just on the other side of it!):

It’s okay if you don’t know how to drive a boat when you get there.  We certainly aren’t proficient boaters.  Chad used to operate a little lake dingy back in his BAMA days, but that was about it.  They give you a quick run down and provide you with two different maps, a nautical one and a pictorial one. They also give you a two-way radio, but some of the guests that needed to use it said that it didn’t work once you got out past a certain point.  I suggest you download an offline GPS app like HERE Maps or Maps.Me.  We used this, and it was very helpful.   Also, there is a lot of nautical traffic out there, so if you get stuck, someone will tow you in or get you some help.  If you are a land lover, I am sorry to say that there is not much to do on this island.  They have bikes that you can use to ride around the island and find a beach.  They also have kayaks and stand up paddle boards, but the real fun is exploring the neighboring cays!

By the way and in case you were wondering, this is what the restaurant looks like:

Okay, let’s go explore.  After a quick bite to eat, it was time to do what we came here to do – get to those pigs! We boarded our uncovered little skiff with a bag full of scraps and a cooler full of lunch, and we headed across the water to Pig Beach!  Chad was our captain.

I was the skipper!

Now, these pigs are no strangers to boats or to people.  When they hear you coming, they magically appear from the brush back there, jump right into that water, and swim out to greet your boat.

They know you have those SCYC scraps, and they want them!

As I learned the hard way, these piggies are not shy.  You serve a singular purpose for them – food – so you better get to feeding them or they will jump all over you to get those scraps.

Once you are out of scraps, you got to let them know.  It’s like a hostage negotiation.  They stare up at you squealing and you have to hold up your hands and show them (and tell them) that you got no more.

And don’t you try to trick them because they know.  If you are holding out on them or you are hiding food from them, you are getting bit right in the butt!  That’s right, a nice little love bite that will leave snout marks on you for a few days!

Here’s the little jerk that got me…

Those teeth though!  Once you board your boat and you are out of food, the pigs are done with you and they are off to the next sucker!

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But that’s okay, you’ve got work to do.  You have to get to Thunderball Grotto (where the James Bond movie was filmed).

There are 2 ways to get in.  You can swim in, which is what most people do, or you can climb up the rock from the other side of this top picture, until you get to the top like this bottom picture, and jump in (about a 35-foot drop).  Chad did both.  However, not many people jump in because, well it’s high and you have to clear the waters below of swimmers.  Also, while that hole looks big, it’s actually jagged coral rock that you can careen into on your way down; so don’t be like Chad.  But if you are going to be like Chad, don’t do this at low tide.  Just so you know, high tide is typically in the morning until about noon, and low tide is in the afternoon.  Chad jumped at about 3:00 p.m.  Again, don’t be like Chad.

Once you get inside, this is what you see.  See what I mean about that hole?!

You can snorkel around in there and see little fishies.  By that time, we were beat, so we went back for nap, and got up and ready for dinner just in time to see the sunset.

Prior to arriving, I had hired a private guide to take us around the cays on his boat for a half day.  I am an advance planner, so you don’t need to book in advance because if you choose to do this, SCYC can arrange it for you, and there are plenty of locals hanging around who are happy to take you.  This will cost you around $300 to $350.  It’s totally unnecessary, but since it was our first time there and we aren’t proficient boaters, we found it helpful to sort of get the lay of the land for the cays that were further away.  Also, if you want to go to the famous two mile long sandbar past Musha Cay this is the only way to get there as it is further away, your SCYC boat wont make it there, and it’s not even on your map. That being said, there are plenty of sandbars all over that you can get to.  Also, your guide can clue you into some great private beaches and snorkel spots such as Rocky Dundas, which is at the southern end of the Exuma Land and Sea National Park,. They will find you star fish, sea horses, and turtles and keep you away from the day-tour boats with loads of tourists on that descend onto the Exumas daily.  They also offer fishing tours.

Our first stop was to Bitter Guana Cay to see the iguanas and feed them Pringles which apparently they love.  By the way, this is also very close to SCYC and totally doable on your own with your SCYC skiff.  In fact, on a return trip we learned that you aren’t supposed to feed these iguanas because they are part of a protected habitat and study on this endangered species of native iguana.  Ooopppps! (I will dedicate a future blog post to socially responsible travel, and had we known this in the beginning, we would have never fed them!)

The iguanas are not as aggressive as the pigs.  They take a minute to warm up to you. Once they check you out, they start coming out from all over.  We got here so early that we had the whole place to ourselves!  It’s also a pretty nice beach that has these great rock formations.

After that, we were off to Compass Cay to get in the water with the nurse sharks.  By the way, this is the only time you will need to have cash on you as each person must pay a $10 docking fee each time you come.

These little guys just hang out on the dock. They are very docile and gentle.

You can pet them!

Or just jump on in and take a swim with them!

Now, this next part is where having a private guide comes in handy because without him, we would have never of known about this completely deserted beach.  As you face the structure on the dock, you will see that there is a path to your left.  If you follow that path and make a left at the end of it, you will see signs that lead you to the beach.

First you pass this mangrove area on the right.

Then you follow this path into the brush.

After about 5 minutes of walking through trees, you come to this sandy little path.

And, when you come onto the beach, there will be NOBODY there.  You have the whole beach all to yourself.  There’s even a little tiki hut with a picnic table to drop your belongings, and get on into that water.

You can literally walk that beach stretch for miles in either direction and not come upon another soul.  This would be a nice spot for your picnic lunch, but if you can wait, the sandbar is even better.

Up next, our guide, Clifton, took us somewhere where Chad could get some snorkeling in.  This is literally his favorite pastime.  He got to see coral, fish, and turtles, which are his favorite!

He even brought up a starfish for me! Before you even ask, no ocean/marine life was harmed or killed for the sake of our travels, entertainment, or this blog.  Everything was returned to its home in the sea!

After he was done, it was on to my favorite part: the sandbar!  We got there just as the sandbar was starting to form.

It’s kind of neat to stand in the middle of the ocean!

Also, the sand makes a cool pattern as the water recedes.

Eventually, the sandbar looks like this:

By now, we had made friends with another (Greek!) couple who lived in Germany and who happened to be staying in the bungalows and had a bigger, covered boat.  So we spent the rest of our days exploring with them (on their boat)!  It’s good to have (international) friends!

But alas, all good things must come to an end, and unfortunately travel is no exception. So, after 4 days and 3 nights in paradise, we bid adieu to our new European friends and made our way back home.  Chad and I (well, really I) have a no duplication rule on travel.  That means that we typically don’t go to the same places twice (except for Greece!), and if we do, we do not do the same itinerary twice.  That being said, we would definitely come back to the Exumas (but maybe just stay on a different cay) because it is so close for us, and it was relatively affordable. At the end of the day with flights, accommodations, food, and a private tour, this trip cost us about $3,000.00.  This trip is easy to do and good for families, couples, girls/guys weekends, and bachelorette parties. So, until the next adventure, happy trails to you! I hope you come back and visit my blog to find out …