Porto, Portugal: Tiles and Wine and Other Things Fine

If you have a thing for tiles on the walls and on the floors, love Port wine, or are a foodie, then this is the place for you. Porto, or Oporto as the locals call it, is a modern city with iconic building facades and dynamic gastronomy.

It is like the San Francisco of Portugal and the Douro Valley is its Napa. As a matter of fact, Porto’s historic area was classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996. In 2001, its wine region, the Alto Douro Wine Region, was also declared a UNESCO World Heritage.

Port wine, that sweet, red dessert wine, is a fortified wine produced exclusively in the Douro Valley. It is the literal reason why most people come to Porto. The Douro Wine Region Valley is the oldest demarcated wine region in the world.

Unfortunately, we only had one day to spend in Porto. We woke up early in the morning and took a 30 minute flight from Lisbon to Porto (you can also take a 2.5 to 3 hour train from Lisbon). Because of our tight time frame, we did not have a chance to visit the Douro Valley.  If you have more time, I recommend an overnight in Porto so that you have at least one full day to visit the city and an overnight in the Douro Valley so that you have another full day to visit the region and do proper wine tastings.

We were met by Sara of Oporto & Douro Moments who would be out guide for a whirlwind of a day in Porto. Sara specializes in the Douro Valley and is native to Porto.

Despite that we would not have a chance to visit Douro with her, Sara made sure that we still experienced the heart of Porto – Port Wine. So, our first stop was Vila Nova de Gaia (or Gaia as it is locally know), which is just across the river from Porto, over the Dom Luís I Bridge, a bridge designed by Gustave Eiffel, you know, the Eiffel Tower guy. In Gaia is where most of the Port wineries have set up shop outside of the Douro Valley. We visited Pocas Junior.

We took a private tour and learned all about the history and tradition of port wine.They still use the traditional method of cleaning their wine storage units, which means that someone who is small enough to fit in this hole, climbs in and cleans by hand.  They have one dedicated employee for this task! They also have one dedicated employee who hand-makes their wine barrels at this on-site workshop.
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Um, are these not the literal largest wine barrels you have ever seen in your entire life?  Apparently, at their Douro Valley location, they have even bigger ones! After tasting several varieties of port, including a port rose (there is such a thing and it is splendid!), we were in need of some food, so we headed back over the bridge to sink our teeth into a sandwich for which Porto is famous: the Francesinha (the Little Frenchie).

There is NOTHING little about this sandwich. The name is kind of comical, actually. One sandwich is enough for two people. Oh, and don’t even bother putting this one in your calories app.  I am pretty sure you will break the damn thing. Just know that you are going to need to up your steps after this one, which is fine because Porto is all hills anyway and calories don’t count on vacation.

Okay, back to the sandwich that gave me a mini panic attack: in between two very thick slices of white bread, you will find cured ham, two different kinds of sausage,  and steak. The sandwich is then covered with melted cheese and a hot thick tomato and beer sauce. And, because there isn’t enough protein in the sandwich, it is topped with a fried egg.  And served with french fries. Take that McDonald’s! I see your Big Mac and raise you the Little Frenchie!

So. Much. Meat.

Okay, so after all that eating, it was time to walk. We walked all over the city admiring the amazing tiled buildings. We even went to a tile museum, kind of.  This place is a government owned and operated tile cooperative. While it does display all of Porto’s traditional tiles, it also supplies tile. So, if you have building that has traditional tile, and you are missing a few pieces, you come in, they verify that you are legit (as in you own the building and you are restoring it), and then they just give you the tile. As in, for free. They will also take tile if you are remodeling and getting rid of the tile (why you would ever do that is beyond me). They will not, however, sell you tile (trust me, I tried). We also visited some of Porto’s most famous food shops. These are legit shops that sell traditional Portuguese products. The most famous among them is A Perola Do Bolhao, open since 1917, and Comer e Chorar Por Mais, also in operation for over 100 years.

Now, if you are a Harry Potter fan, you are going to want to come to Porto. It is in Porto where the author, J.K. Rowling, got inspiration for her series. She apparently split her time between a little cafe, Café Majestic, and the oldest and most beautiful bookstore in the world, the Lello Bookstore, also known as Livraria Lello & Irmão.  Rowling frequented the bookstore when she taught English in Porto. The Lello Bookstore was built in 1906 by the Lello Brothers.

This was her cafe of choice:

And this is the bookstore.  The photo of the facade is mine, but the photos of the inside are courtesy of Mr. Google because there is a huge line to get in. This bookstore has become so popular that they actually charges 4 Euro per person to enter; but, if you buy a book, that is credited towards your purchase.

After all that walking in the heat, it was time for a little treat: Portugal’s famous Santini gelato! Some call it the best in the world.  It has been a staple in Portugal for more than 60 years, ever since an Italian named Attilio Santini set up shop in Estoril, Portugal.  With over 50 flavors made fresh daily, you are going to want to make more than one stop here!Alas, our day in Porto was coming to an end. We headed back to the airport with full bellies and achy feet; but it was worth every minute (and every calorie)!

Sintra, Portugal: An Enchanting Fairytale Land

I have a confession to make. Prior to planning my trip to Portugal, I did not even know that Sintra existed. Sintra may just be Portugal’s best kept secret.  Sintra, I learned, is a popular day-trip from Lisbon. It is just a 30 to 40 minute drive from Lisbon. Or, you can take a 30 minute train from Lisbon’s Rossio station to Sintra station.

Since it was our first time to Sintra, we decided to explore this magical little place with Sintra Magik Private Tours. Out guide, Diogo, was fantastic! He is a Portuguese historian and filmmaker.  He is patient, unconcerned with the clock, and 100% focused on your interests. He is a wealth of information about Portugal, and he really made Sintra come alive for us.  He took us to secret little spots and planned our tour so that we would always be running opposite the schedules of the big group tour buses.

To say that Sintra is picturesque is an understatement.  It is downright enchanting.  It is up on a hill, so it is cooler than Lisbon.  And, it has a seemingly endless number of castles to explore.

The most popular of the castles is Pena Palace. The palace stands on the top of a hill in the Sintra Mountains above the town of Sintra. Pena Palace is the greatest expression of 19th-century romanticism in Portugal. Its color and tile work make it a breathtaking site. This was our first stop in Sintra. We got there right as the doors opened and were the first in line to buy tickets.

Exploring Pena Palace sans crowds makes this spectacular palace even more magical. The palace is surrounded by Pena Park.

You have two options to reach the palace.  You can stroll through the park, which is slightly uphill and takes about 10 minutes of walking. Or, you can pay 2 EU per person and be driven up on a trolley. We opted for the short and picturesque hike.

The views as you approach the palace from below are incredible. The palace, lording over you from above (as you approach on the footpath below), is so striking that it doesn’t even look real.

We made our way through the impressive stone entrance, and then Diogo guided us through the part of the palace from which you would normally exit. This gave us a chance to see the entire palace complex with NO other people around. 

We next explored the outer grounds of the palace. The color and stone and tile detailing of the exterior of this palace are truly breathtaking. Seriously, pictures do not do it justice. 

But don’t think that all the eye candy is just on the exterior.  The interior of this palace is equally as impressive. 

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We left the palace just as throngs of tour groups started filing in, and we headed back to Sintra’s town center to do some exploring. First, stop – snack time! We stopped at this little cafe, the oldest and most popular in the region to try the local queijadas, Sintra’s version of a pastel de nata (the ubiquitous Portuguese custard tart) made with a sweet cheese filling.

Sit inside by the window to enjoy a fantastic view.

The little town of Sintra is so charming, with darling cobbled streets that are lined with shops and cafes. After our brief snack stop, we made our way to the National Palace of Sintra, situated in the heart of Sintra.

We spent the remainder of our time exploring the shops, streets, and corners of this beautiful little city.

Diogo suggested that we head to the coast for lunch so that we can eat at an authentic Portuguese family-owned restaurant and visit Cabo da Roca, the westernmost part of mainland Portugal and continental Europe.

Next, Diogo took us to a secret spot that I promised him I would not identify in this post where we had the landscape and beautiful views all to ourselves!

We ended our day in the beautiful seaside city of Cascais.

Honestly, our day trip to Sintra was my favorite part of our Portugal visit. But, I left Sintra feeling like I really just scratched the surface. To really appreciate Sintra, I think you need to stay here for at least one night, but probably two nights. There were so many sites that we did not get to explore, like The Quinta Regaleira, which has this beautiful spiral and courtyard inside (courtesy of Mr. Google):There are some beautiful properties to choose from for an overnight stay.  You can go wine tasting in this region, and, I am told that once the day-trippers leave, Sintra becomes a different place, and the sites stay open to allow the people staying there to enjoy them without the crowds.

This website offered a helpful three-day itinerary for Sintra:

sights of sintra portugal

If you find yourself in Portugal, make it a point to visit (and stay) in Sintra.  It is well-worth your time. Obrigado and Viagens Felizes!

London: Highlights of the Queen’s Land

If you have ever thought about crossing the pond to visit London, now is the time. London is Europe’s New York. It is a city that never sleeps with 24-hour restaurants and lots to do.  It has history, sites, world class museums, an dynamic dining and foodie scene, theater, and some of the best shopping. It is surprisingly walkable. The whole country speaks English (obviously). And, contrary to popular belief, the weather is pleasant (when Chad and I were there it only rained one time and only for a few short hours in the afternoon). It is perfect for families (i.e., European Spring Break anyone??), for couples, for girls’ trips, for solo travelers, for first-timers to international travel, and for long weekends. That’s right, I am suggesting you go to Europe for a long weekend. Why not? You are going to live those days anyway, might as well live them at a destination. But here is the best part: it’s affordable!! I bet you never thought that London and affordable would be used together in the same sentence where affordable was the adjective for London. But, thanks to Brexit, the pound is not that much more expensive than the Euro. Couple that with fairly affordable flights (I’ve seen them as low as in the $400s), a plentiful range of hotel and Airbnb options, reliable public transportation and Uber, and tons of free things to do around the city, and you have the makings of an epic vacation.

SEE 

The best way to “meet” a city is to get out and walk it. But, where are you going? What are you looking at? I am a firm believer in hiring a private local guide to introduce you to the city.  I like this to be the first full day experience. As you might expect, London is full of city tours, and hop-on-hop off buses, but I am not about that life. I do not want to be herded like cattle. I want personalized attention and the freedom to tailor my experience to my tastes and preferences.  I want Charley from London Tailored Tours, and, trust me, so do you. Charley knows London, and she loves London. She is passionate about sharing her city with you.  She is also a stand-up comedian, so she’s pretty entertaining. She has a range of tour options (city, royal, food, shopping, sports, Harry Potter) or she will create and itinerary for you. She is also very responsive both during booking and after you take her tour. She’s like a personal concierge. She will communicate with you while you are in London to help you with restaurant recommendations, things to do, even directions! You leave her tour as friends.

Chad and I chose the Best of London in a Day, but because we like to eat, we also added parts of the Borough Market Food Tour and then we threw in some off menu items as well.  Charley was happy to accommodate. We waited in zero lines.  She had pre-planned the tour and pre-bought our attraction tickets which saved a lot of time and allowed us to pack it all in. Also, she knows her way around Borough Market.  She knows the best vendors, and they give personalized attention when you show up with Charley.

First, Charley took us to meet Ben.  He lives in the Houses of Parliament and is one of London’s most iconic landmarks. He was as handsome as advertised, and she got us there just as he began to chime! Here are a few interesting facts: Big Ben is the name of the bell inside the clock tower, and not the name of the clock tower itself; the origin of the name Big Ben is unknown; and unfortunately, overseas visitors cannot visit the clock tower. On the way there, she told us about the London Eye, which is located on the South Bank of the River Thames and is view-able from the Westminster Bridge. It is Europe’s tallest Ferris wheel, and it offered the highest public viewing point in London until it was superseded by the 804 feet observation deck on the 72nd floor of The Shard, which opened to the public in February 2013. It is the most popular paid tourist attraction in the U.K.From there we proceeded to Westminster Abbey, final resting place of several notable Brits and most famously known for royal weddings! From there, we took the garden route to the palace, where we happened upon the filming of the Netflix series The Crown. Charley timed our visit perfectly so that we would catch the changing of the guard. If you didn’t know any better, you would think that this was it, and you’d miss the whole thing! The changing of the guard ceremony actually starts here and it is filled with A LOT more pomp and circumstance than these beautiful black horses and fashionably tassel-headed men! It starts with a band and then there is a whole lot of procession! We got the pom-pom hats! And the red coats! And it culminates in a parade around Buckingham Palace!
Unfortunately, Buckingham Palace was not open to visitors when we were there, but it is at different times of the year. Charley told us an interesting tale of Michael Fagan, a palace intruder who made it all the way into the Queen’s bedroom. Nonetheless, the palace is lovely to admire from the outside, but is not quite as impressive as you may imagine it to be. While London Bridge may be falling down, Tower Bridge is as majestic as ever and is the gateway to visiting the Tower of London.

MUSEUMS 

While Westminster Abbey and the Tower of London are not free, the British Museum, the National Gallery, and the Tate are totally free to visit (and totally worth a visit). So, if you happen to find yourself in London on a rainy day, these are great options.

If you want to see the crown jewels, you have to go to the Tower of London. Entertaining tours of the Tower of London complex are given by the Yeoman Warders, commonly known as Beefeaters, of which there is just one woman, and she is famous. You are on your own to see the jewels, and it is a pretty quick little exhibit, culminating in this beauty: If you like contemporary and modern art, then head to the Tate. But if you only have the time (or the patience) to visit one art museum, make it the National Gallery. If you like Monet and van Gogh, then this is the place for you. An art lover could spend the whole day (or several days) there, but if you want just the highlights, here are the 8 best, the 10 best, the 30 best, and the 100 best. These are my personal favorites: If art is not your thing or you only have the time (or patience) for one museum, then make it the British Museum. Pack your patience because in addition to being free, this museum is large and very popular, so it is a mad house inside.  I suggest getting there right before it opens at 10:00 a.m. when the lines to get in are not that bad and have a plan of attack. Here is a list of the 7 best things at the museum, which I don’t necessarily agree with since it excludes the 2 most interesting artifacts: the Elgin Marbles and the Rosetta Stone. Here is list of the top 10 artifacts.  Or you can plan your visit based on how much time you have to spend: 1 hour versus 3 hours Our visit was focused on seeing the Parthenon Marbles, because unfortunately, Greeks have to go to London to see artifacts that belong in Greece. The Parthenon Marbles, more commonly known as the Elgin Marbles, are a collection of Classical Greek marble sculptures that were originally part of the temple of the Parthenon and other buildings on the Acropolis of Athens. In the 19th century, Thomas Bruce, 7th Earl of Elgin removed about half of the surviving sculptures of the Parthenon, as well as sculptures from the Propylaea and Erechtheum and transported them to Britain. Apparently, he got a permit from the Ottoman Empire to remove the marbles, but if you ask Greeks, he stole them.  The British government later purchased them from Elgin and displayed them in a museum. After gaining its independence from the Ottoman Empire, Greece began a series of projects to restore its monuments, and has expressed its disapproval of Elgin’s removal of the Marbles from the Acropolis and the Parthenon, which is regarded as one of the world’s greatest cultural monuments. Naturally, Greece disputes the subsequent purchase of the Marbles by the British Government and urges the return of the marbles to Greece for their unification. This disagreement has been ongoing ever since.  The British government has given numerous excuses over the years for why they won’t return the marbles, including that Greece did not have a proper place to display and care for them.  So, Greece built the Acropolis Museum and has left a big open space for the marbles homecoming. Interestingly, most Brits believe that the marbles should be returned.

Also, don’t miss the Rosetta Stone and the statue from Easter Island.

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EAT

No visit to London would be complete without a stop at Borough Market. it is, after all, Britain’s most renowned food market. It is s a wholesale and retail food market, and is one of the largest and oldest food markets in London. It has over 100 stalls (these stalls are highly coveted and rarely turn over; and, when they do, hundreds of vendors vie for the spot) and sells everything from fruit, veggies, meats, chocolate, oysters, flowers, and spices.  The pub culture is strong in the U.K., so you kind of have to visit a local pub to get a true flavor of the city.  You can stop for a casual meal or just for pints.

And, you simply cannot leave London without first having fish and chips.  It’s like the national dish. If you want fine dining, then there is no lack of options.  The city is teeming with Michelin starred restaurants and hard to snag reservations. We chose Pollen Street Social and Restaurant Story, both of which need to be reserved well in advance. But if you’ve got a sweet tooth and an affinity for pink, then it’s Peggy Porschen for the win. You can visit the cafe for some sweet treats, tea, and coffee, or you can join one of their baking classes. While these are thought to be the best cupcakes in London (some would say ever), I am not sure I agree (certainly not the best ever). Don’t get me wrong, they are good.  But best might be a stretch. They are cute though and the shop probably is one of the more adorable ones.

TEA

If you go to London and you don’t do an afternoon tea, did you even go to London?  Tea is the lifeblood of the entire country. It is like a big deal. Plus, even if you don’t love tea, it is a fun experience. There are several tea houses to choose from.  We did two.  We did a more traditional afternoon tea at the Goring Hotel, where Princess Kate had her tea before her wedding:We also did an afternoon tea at Fortnum and Mason, the grocer to the royals. While it is the more touristy option, I recommend the one at Fortnum and Mason. First, the Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon is darling. Second, the tea selection is mind blowing. Third, the service is top-notch and the staff is uber knowledgeable about the teas and their origins.  They are also very good at answering all of your questions and helping you make a selection. Finally, the food from the menu items, to the tea sandwiches, to the scones, to the desserts are amazing.  It is all you can eat and drink.  They serve bubbly and beer. And, they will even pack you a doggy bag of treats to take with you. 

SHOP

When it comes to shopping, it is all here, and, non-EU citizens can take advantage of the Value Added Tax Refund.

If you are looking for unique gifts to take home, shop Fortnum and Mason’s multi level retail store where you will find sweets and teas that make the perfect gift! If you are after high-end fashions, then Harrods is the obvious choice. Hell, the store is a destination in and of itself, so even if you aren’t going to shop, it is worth a visit.  It is the most impressive department store that I have ever been in, including all the ones in Paris. The first floor is miles of handbags and beauty counter. Each floor thereafter is themed: women’s fashions, men’s fashions, children’s fashions, home decor, furniture, electronics, jewelry, and ENTIRE floor of shoes for women, a floor of the most opulent perfumes, and then the food halls! A floor of dozens of edible choices, a gourmet grocer, an unparalleled wine and spirits shop, and a cigar specialty store. It is impressive, and this is coming from a world class shopper.

Also, do not forget to visit the ground floor where you will find a memorial to Princess Diana and Dodi Fayed. But if you prefer to stroll charming little streets lined with posh boutiques and a quaint little flea market, then a visit to Notting Hill and the Portobello Market is in order.  So there you have it. As you would expect, London offers everything you could ever want in a city vacation – no matter what your particular tastes, interests or budget may be – and, best of all, you can do it all in as little as a long weekend! So, do yourself a favor and hop across the pond and see for yourself. Cheerio!

Iceland: A Guide To Visiting The Blue Lagoon

BL16The Blue Lagoon in Iceland is probably the most famous geothermal pool in the world.  It is certainly the prettiest and most luxurious. There are hundreds of geothermal pools all over Iceland; but, people travel all the way to Iceland just to visit this one. Trust me, I get it. It is every bit as beautiful as it looks online. So, here is all you need to know about the Blue Lagoon in one neat little post. You are welcome!

The most important thing you need to know about your visit to the Blue Lagoon is that you need a reservation; and I sure hope you made your reservation way in advance of your actual visit, because if not, I am sorry, but no lagoon for you! Only a certain amount of people are allowed into the lagoon per day and reservations are a must.

You can book your reservations online.  They have four different packages, ranging from standard to luxury, that include different benefits. The most basic package includes entrance into the lagoon and use of their silica mud masks for about $50.00.  The luxury package includes entrance, the mud mask, use of a towel, a free drink, an algae mask, use of a bathrobe and slippers, reservations (but not the cost of the actual meal) at their restaurant (LAVA), wine with your meal, a product set, and access to the exclusive lounge for about $234. In my opinion, the premium package (which includes everything that the luxury has except for the product set and exclusive lounge access) is the way to go, and that is what we did. With this package, you don’t need to worry about bringing your own towel, slippers, and bathrobe.

If you are on a budget, the standard package is fine; just remember to bring your own towel, cover-up or robe (you need this because it is freezing once you get out of the water!), and slippers.  You may want to also bring your own snacks or lunch because food at the lagoon, like in the rest of Iceland, is very expensive. There is a water fountain. Otherwise you have to purchase your drinks.

When you make your reservation, you will select a time. Depending on the day and time of year, the lagoon is open from 8:00 a.m. through 11:00 p.m. Also, it is open every single day of the year! In my opinion, the earlier you come, the better. If you come right when they open (at 8:00 a.m.), you will practically have the whole place to yourself! The picture above was taken around 9:00 a.m. The later you come, the more people you will be sharing the lagoon with. When planning your visit, keep in mind that from April 23 to April 27, 2017 the Blue Lagoon will close for renovations.

This makes deriving precise and meaningful discount cialis prescriptions Parkinson’s disease stats for such countries, as well as about issues such as race and Parkinson’s disease, problematic. For ages men were terrified by the mere thought of erectile dysfunction and had nothing to do but to deal with the problem when it was starting to affect men in their 20s and 30s. buy levitra If we like this tadalafil cialis are stressed, it goes up. Ensure that ED medications are safe for you to have sexual activity* have low blood pressure or have high blood pressure that is not controlled* have had a stroke* have had a seizure* or any family members have a rare heart condition known as QT prolongation in light of the way that the branded free samples levitra works. levitra is Sildenafil citrate. Also, from the reservations page, you can book your transportation to the lagoon. Buses will come pick you up from your hotel or even from the airport if you are doing a layover visit (Yes, this is a thing)! Transportation will run you about $30 round trip. You can also drive yourself and park in their lot. From the reservations page, you can also request a reservation for an in-water massage at an additional cost.

If you are coming from the airport, there is a handy luggage check area where you can leave your bags while you visit the lagoon. If you forgot to bring your swimsuit, no worries, they will rent you one along with a towel, robe, and slippers!Blue Lagoon Iceland Luggage StorageOnce you arrive, you will take a winding path to the entrance.  Just before the entrance are little trails you can take to see the outside of the lagoon.BL blue lagoon to cieland entrance path Blue Lagoon Iceland Outside 2 Blue Lagoon Iceland outside Blue Lagoon Iceland EntranceWhen you walk in, you will line up based on the package you purchased to check-in.  At check-in, they will assign you your towel, robe, and slippers, and give you a bracelet that acts as your locker key and your credit card on the property.Blue Lagoon Iceland Entrance Inside Blue Lagoon Iceland check in Blue Lagoon Iceland locker keyFrom the check-in, you will be escorted to the locker room where you will choose a locker. You must shower before entering the lagoon. The locker rooms have restrooms and shower facilities, but don’t expect the same amenities as a spa. They have a soap and like one blowdryer, so bring your own toiletries and blow dryers if you need them for afterwards. Blue Lagoon Iceland lockersThe locker rooms lead out to the lagoon entrance area.  There are two ways to enter the lagoon: from the inside pool that has a door that leads to the outside or from the outside using a sloped ramp. There are places to hang your towels and robes inside and outside, but space is very limited. Blue Lagoon Iceland Exit from Lockers Blue Lagoon Iceland Map Blue Lagoon Iceland inside entrance to pool Blue Lagoon Inside pool entrance Blue Lagoon Iceland door to pool Blue Lagoon Iceland hanging rack BL3 BL7Once inside the lagoon, there are shallow and deep areas. There are also saunas and steam rooms as well as swim up bars where you can buy drinks and from where you can get your mud and algae masks. If you plan to take pictures while inside the lagoon, make sure you bring a waterproof case for your camera or phone.BL10 BL6 BL12 BL8 BL9 Blue Lagoon Iceland main building Blue Lagoon IcelandThe water temperature is between 98 and 104 degrees Fahrenheit (37-40 degrees Celsius). Apparently, there are 9 million liters of water in the pool that renews itself every 40 hours. It is about 2 feet at its shallowest point and 5 feet at its deepest point. There is no visibility under the water. Because it is so hot, it is important to stay hydrated before, during, and after your visit. Also, the sulfuric water can really dry out your hair, so load it up with conditioner and try not to get your hair wet.

The water is made up of silica, algae, and other minerals.  The water is looks blue because the silica reflects sunlight; however, the water is actually a whitish color.

The Blue Lagoon has three dining options.  There is a small snack bar right outside the locker rooms on the ground floor, a cafeteria, and a full-service restaurant.  If you want to eat at the restaurant, you must make advanced reservations.  You can order a la carte or from a three-course pre-fixe menu.  The food is tasty, but be prepared to splurge on lunch.  We did the pre-fixe menu, and our meal was about $125.00 for lunch!Blue Lagoon Iceland Cafe Blue Lagoon Iceland dining Blue Lagoon Iceland restaurant BL17 we2 Blue Lagoon Iceland patioIn addition to their exclusive lounge, there is a rest and relaxation area, a gift shop, conference rooms (so you can hold a meeting or event here!), and a full service hotel (as in you can sleep at the Blue Lagoon, which has its own set of perks!).Blue Lagoon Iceland shop Blue Lagoon Iceland Relaxation AreaAlso, if you are going to get a massage or other treatment, you are taken to a secluded pool that has these floating beds where your treatment takes place. Every few minutes they dip you into the water to keep you warm.Blue Lagoon Iceland massage treatment areaAlthough it is majorly touristy and pretty pricey, the Blue Lagoon is certainly worth a visit. I loved that we went during the winter.  There is something sort of surreal about being in your bathing suit while the ground is covered in snow, and you are bathing in super hot water while snowflakes hit your face. It was definitely a memorable experience!

 

The 10 Best Beaches of Crete, Greece

Beaches postSadly, summer is officially over. But that’s okay, because it’s never too early to plan for next summer, and I am here to help you with a little Greek Island inspiration.  As you may already know, I am Greek.  What you probably don’t know is that my dad lives in Greece on the island of Crete in a small village called Anopolis.  Nestled in the White Mountains, Anopolis is a village of Sfakia, which is located in the southwestern part of Crete and is a prefecture of Chania.

I am always amazed by two things when I speak to Americans about their European travels.  The first thing that amazes me is that many American travelers to Europe don’t make it to Greece or if they do, it is not one of the first countries they visit. I may be biased, but in my humble opinion, Greece has something for everyone-history, food, shopping, beaches.  But, don’t take my word for it. Instead take that of the thousands of travelers who voted Greece best country to visit in 2016. It is also one of Europe’s cheapest countries in which to be a tourist and, again, in my opinion, the most hospitable.

The second thing that amazes me is that of the American travelers that have made it to Greece, almost none of them visit Crete, Greece’s largest island. Indeed, it is only recently (as in when cruise ships started putting Crete on their itineraries) that Americans have ventured onto the island of Crete. On thing is for sure– Crete is worthy of more than just a day stop at a port city on your cruise.  You probably need two or more weeks to really visit the entire island. Indeed, I have been visiting Crete for over 30 years and have still not seen it all!

Unlike many of the more touristy islands that are seasonal, Crete is inhabited year-round.  Also, more so than any other island, Crete offers travel opportunities for every kind of traveler.  If you are a hiker, you won’t find more gorges and trails on any other island (just ask the Germans who have been hiking Crete for decades).  If you like food, you are in for a treat.  If you are into wines, Crete is having a moment in oenology.  If you like history, Crete is the birthplace of the Minoan civilization, and, as such, has many sites to offer. But if what you are really looking for are some incredible beaches on which to spend your days (I mean, you are, after all, on an island!), then look no further. Below is my list of the 10 best beaches of Crete, and I promise you, the beaches you visited in Santorini and Mykonos will pale in comparison.

To give you a reference point for where these treasures are located, I found a map of the four prefectures of Crete online.  As you will soon see, most of the best beaches are in west Crete in the prefecture of Chania.crete-map

NUMBER 1: BALOS BEACH/LAGOONBalosI dare you to find a beach that is more visually stunning than Balos Beach. I mean, it is literally shaped like a heart because you fall in love with it as soon as you feast your eyes upon it, which is good since getting here can be a challenge.

Assuming you don’t have your own yacht/chartered vessel, there are three ways to get to Balos, which is located in the prefecture of Chania: 1) hike there, 2) drive there, 3) ferry there. I am not a hiker, so I would not consider the first option, but maybe you are. If that is the case, the trek is approximately three hours from the town of Kaliviani.

If you are not used to European roads, particularly narrow dirt mountain roads, and European drivers, I would suggest that you ferry over.  This is, by far, the easiest way to get here.  You can take a ferry from the town of Kissamos for about 30 Euros.  The added bonus of taking the ferry is that you will also get to visit the island of Gramvousa and you may see some dolphins along the way!

The town of Kissamos is about 26 miles from the port city and old capitol city of Chania. You can either book a tour that will take care of all of this for you, or catch a bus (or cab) from Chania to Kissamos.  Crete has a very comprehensive and organized bus system, K.T.E.L.  I know this because my family owns one of the buses and runs the route from Chania to Sfakia, so I take the bus from time to time. You would take the bus from Chania to Kissamos Port, which departs daily at 8:30 a.m., 11:00 a.m., and 5:30 p.m. and returns at 6:00 p.m. (departure after the arrival of the ferry to Balos) and 7:00 p.m.  It takes about an hour to reach Kissamos by bus, and the cost is about 7 Euros.  The bus schedule can be found here.

If you take the ferry, you will take an hour ride to Gramvousa where the ferry ports for about two hours to allow passengers to swim and then a 20 minute ride to Balos, where passengers have three hours to swim.  The ferry in Balos is a water landing, so be prepared for that. The ferry leaves Kissamos around 10:00 a.m. and returns around 6:00 p.m.  The down side of taking the ferry is that you will not see the view above coming in.  To get that view, you would have to hike half way up the path that the hikers and drivers came in on; but trust me, it is worth the effort.

We came by car. By the way, if you want the experience of driving to Balos, as of 2015, there is a bus that will drive you there during peak season. Because it’s a nature preserve and because of the terrain, you can’t actually drive right up to the beach, but you can get close.  Once your turn off the main highway, you will use the local road to reach Balos.  The first 3 miles of the drive boasts a nicely paved road, but the last 5 miles is a dirt road. Before you reach the dirt road, you will pay a toll of 1 Euro per person (but parking is free).  Also, keep an eye out for the goats that lay across the road on your drive in on. This is what the dirt road looks like:road to balos

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balos coastI HIGHLY recommend that you get here early (like before the ferries start coming in).  There are very limited parking spaces relative to the number of visitors.  Once the parking lot fills up, they park you on the side of an unpaved mountain road with no guardrails (it’s pretty interesting to have to make a three point turn to turn the car around to leave), and you have to walk the rest of the way, which, depending on how many people are there that day, could be a long walk.  For us, it was 10 minutes, and that was just to get to the path that takes you to Balos Beach. This was the parking situation at noon:bbpark2If you have to park outside the lot, you will have to walk towards the lot to reach the path that takes you to Balos Beach. That path takes another 30 to 40 minutes.  It is also unpaved and there are stairs at some parts.  It starts out flat and then you climb down stairs to get to the beach (which means you climb up to get back!), so I suggest you plan very carefully for what you bring with you to the beach, and, do yourself a favor and wear sneakers, hiking shoes, or water shoes. Now is not the time to be cute! You will instantly regret flip flops. And, it’s hot! Put on sunscreen, drink water, eat protein bars, wear a hat, and just survive! The good news is that you can take a Donkey Taxi more than half way (both to and from the beach) for about 4 Euros.  The great news is that you get the most beautiful pictures ever. The path to the beach begins where you see this sign:donkey taxiThe road starts out looking like this, and you’re all like, what’s the big deal:dirt road into balosAbout half way, it turns to this: bb satirsBut, before it gets to that, you see this:bb2

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bb5You’ll know when you’re there when you see this, like a shining oasis: bb13

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bb8Sweet relief! bb9This is the lagoon side:bb10

bb11The water is shallow and cool, and the sand is pink!Pink SandIf you didn’t do it on the way in, on the way back, you’ll probably be like: bbtaxi

bb20Otherwise, it’s this: bb18According to Chad, he will never drive to Balos again, but I didn’t mind it. Some other helpful hints: there is a trailer restroom before you get on the path and a small snack bar.  Don’t count on those restrooms always being open or having toilet paper, so bring your own. There are also a couple of trailer stalls on the beach (these likely won’t have toilet paper) and they are Turkish toilets.  There is also a small snack bar on the beach.  There are no chairs or umbrellas for rent. 

I listed this beach number one for a reason. It is the most famous and most photographed beach in all of Crete. It is amazing, and it is worth all the work it takes to get here, so be not discouraged!

NUMBER 2: ELAFONISI BEACHef14Elafonisi Beach is also found in the prefecture of Chania, about 47 miles from Chania. There is a main beach and a islet that is joined by a sand bar. To get to this beach, you can drive and park in a dirt lot just off the main entrance to the beach or take a cab or bus.  You can also get here by private boat. The parking lot is quite large, but also gets very full as a ton of people visit this beach. From the parking lot, this is your view:ef7Once you park, you will see a bunch of snack carts and a small beach restaurant.  Walk towards the action to get onto the beach.  Just before you get onto the beach on the left, are a series of four trailer toilets (American style) that clean, stocked, and cost 1 Euro to use. This will be your view as you step onto the beach:ef25This beach is crowded, and there are chairs and umbrellas for rent, but it is also so large that you can literally escape the crowds.ef20To do that, you can walk through a shallow water pool/sandbar and go through the nature preserve part:ef22

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ef13Where you will find a much less crowded beach: ef17

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df5The sand here is also pink: elafonisi sandBecause I feel like my pictures really don’t do this beach justice, I did a Google search to find you some better ones that really capture this beautiful beach, and this website had some great shots:R_Elafonisi_jana_Rusinkova2_669_501_s_c1

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NUMBER 3: PREVELI BEACHpreveli beachIs this real life?!?  It is in Crete! This is Preveli Beach, which is located in the prefecture of Rethymnon, by the Preveli River and the famous palm forest. As with all the good Cretan beaches, there’s the easy way and the hard way to get here.  The easy way is to take a boat from Plakias or Agia Galini. The hard way is to drive. From Plakias, you will drive to the Preveli Monastary, and about a mile before you reach the monastery, you will park your car and walk down a seemingly endless amount of steep stairs that lead to the beach. The best pictures are on this route.  Apparently, you can also drive a dirt road leading to the nearby village of Drymiskiano Amoudi and walk a short 5 minute path to the beach. There are places to rent kayaks if you want to kayak down the river to get to the beach. Full Disclosure: I have not yet been to this beach yet (so this photo is borrowed from good ole’ Mr. Google), but it is on my list for when I return to Crete in May, so I will update this post then.

NUMBER 4: SEITAN LIMANI/STEFANOU BEACHSL5About 13 miles from the city of Chania, you will find this gem. To get here, drive towards Chania airport, and turn left  towards village Chordaki and then follow the signs to Rizoskloko. Signage will lead you to the beach.  The road is paved all the way, but the last part of the road is a small, winding mountain road with no guardrails.  You will come to an area where you can leave your car, and then you set out on foot for about 15 minutes down a steep path of stairs to get to the beach. The beach gets very crowded in season, so go early.  Also there are no amenities on this beach, so if you need it, bring it. The photos of this beach are brought to you courtesy of my god-sister, fellow wanderluster, and Cretan beach expert, Roula.SL

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NUMBER 5: GLYKA NERA/SWEET WATER BEACHSweetwaterThere are only two ways to get to this beach, which is located in Sfakia (where I am from) in the prefecture of Chania and literally translates into Sweet Water Beach- 1) drive, leave your car on the side of the road and walk this path about 30 minutes to the beach or 2) come by boat via the water taxis from Sfakia or Loutro. The beach is rocky and there is a small snack bar in the water perched on some rocks, but the water is crystal clear and cool.SW

NUMBER 6: FALASARNA BEACHfalasarnaLike Elafonisi, Falasarna Beach, which is also located in the prefecture of Chania, is made up of several sandy beaches.  Because it is on the west coast, this is a great beach to catch the sunset. The easiest way to get here is to drive the hour from Chania; otherwise, you can take the public bus, which runs routes during tourist season.

NUMBER 7: MARMARA BEACHmarmaraIf you were brave enough to hike 4 hours through the Aradaina Gorge, guess where you ended up? Right here! Truthfully, you came to a road that had a passage for a steeper road down to the water which lead you here. This beach is also in Sfakia, about 53 miles from Chania.  You can drive here (park your car up top on the side of the road and walk on down that steep path) or take a public bus to Sfakia and then take a boat over. There is a small tavern on the beach and a few umbrellas and sunbeds, but that is about it. There are some great caves to snorkel in, but the water is very deep.marmara 2

NUMBER 8: MATALA BEACH OR TRIOPETRA BEACH  

The number 8 spot is a tie between Matala Beach or Triopetra Beach.  These beaches are about an hour away from each other.  Matala is located in the prefecture of Heraklion, while Triopetra is located in the prefecture of Rethymnon.

If you are a hippie or a hippie at heart, then Matala Beach (and the surrounding toewn) is your spirit animal. In the 1960’s a community of backpacking hippies decided to make the ancient caves located on Matala Beach their home, including Joni Mitchel after her breakup from Graham Nash.  This is where she met Cary who later became the subject of her song “Carey.” I have not yet visited this beach (so photos are courtesy of the Internet), but apparently, the hippies are alive and well here, and there is nudity on the beach (which, by the way is not uncommon in Europe and on most Greek beaches). Also, in the summer (usually June), you can catch the free three-day annual music festival.

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If you like a beautiful, natural but not as crowded beach, then head to Triopetra Beach, which translates into “three rock” and was named after the three rock formations found on the beach. I have also not yet been to this beach, but I hear that it can be very windy here, but what’s a little wind when you get to see views like this (which, I again borrowed from the Internet):Triopetra-Beach-South-Rethymnon-Crete

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NUMBER 9: LOUTROloutro4If you want to visit a true beach town, head to Loutro, in the prefecture of Chania. There are no cars here and no roads, just beaches, hotels, tavernas, and shops. There are only 2 ways to get here: 1) by foot and 2) by boat.  You have to be a serious hiker to get here by foot. If that is you, take the bus (or drive) to Sfakia.  You can start your hike here.  In fact, you can visit Glyka Nera (number 5 above) first as you can start your hike here and the same trail will end at Loutro. This is a long hike and will likely take 3 or more hours.  Alternatively, you can come to our village (Anopolis) from Sfakia, and start your hike basically from my house which sits at the foot of the mountain you need to climb up to get there. This is the center of Anopolis:AnopolisBefore you get to the center, on the left hand side is my cousin’s bakery:bakery

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bakery2She makes everything from scratch everyday.  Her goods are delicious.  She also harvests her own honey, which is life changing.  Ask her to make you a Sfakian pie, stuffed with mizithra cheese from our cheese factory. eatOnce you are at the center of Anopolis, stay to the left of the circle and then take the road to the right, you’ll be on your way.  After passing about 10 houses, you will be at the foot of the mountain. If you see a black BMW with a Florida license plate, you’ll know you are in the right place, at my house!  Stop in and say hi to my dad, George, and I bet he will cut you some graviera cheese (which we make at our cheese factory just up the road), pick you some figs from our trees and grapes from our vines, and treat you to some raki.cheese2This cheese is legendary!  You can only get it in Crete. There is an entire festival held in August in its honor! I’m not kidding:festThis is my uncle Andrea, who, with the help of my dad, makes the cheese:AndreaNext thing you know, this will be your situation (by the way, you are supposed to dip the cheese in the honey!):eat2He may even take you out back and show you some of our goats! goatsAfter fueling up for your hike, you will be on your way! The hike will take about 2 hours. Go straight through the gate below to start your Loutro hike, or stay on the path to the right, and climb up to the church at the top before heading down and on to Loutro.Loutro hike2

Loutro hikeIf you chose to the visit the small church on top of the mountain, you will come through this gate.  There are amazing views from up here.Church 3

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ChurchAfter your visit look for this cross on the bottom of the small path leading to the church and across from this cross will be a rock that shows you the way.marker

Loutro3You are heading here: LoutroIf you opt for the easier route, you can take the ferry from Sfakia, which runs every day at 10:30 a.m., 1:00 p.m., 4:30 p.m., and 5:30 p.m., or take a water taxi over (or your own private boat). With the ferry you can also visit the beach in Agia Roumeli. This is Sfakia:sfakia3The ferry leaves from here in Sfakia:ferryThe ticket office is before you reach this landing:ticket officeBefore you reach the ticket kiosk, there is a small ocean-side snack bar where you can stop in for a delicious gyro and wait for the ferry to arrive.sfakia

gyro2Once you board the ferry, in about 20 minutes, you will reach Loutro.ferry2

loutro7Most people walk the semi-circle and stop at the first beach.  If you keep going all the way to the end, there is another beach next to some huge rocks, which offer nice snorkeling opportunities, and this beach is less crowded. There is also a snack bar right near the beach with a restroom. The water is cool and the beaches are rocky.loutro waterIf you miss the ferry back or want to stay for a while, book a room at my family’s hotel on the island, and tell my cousin George that I sent you!protopapa2Also, there is no nude or topless bathing in Loutro.sign

NUMBER 10: FRANGOKASTELLOfrang9If you are looking for long sandy beaches that are suitable for families with children and have an added bonus of ruins to explore, then you have found your paradise. Frangokastello is located in the prefecture of Chania. You can get here by bus, car, or boat. There are a few beaches you can visit in this area. The first is right at the foot of an ancient castle.frang beachEither before or after the beach, make sure to stop in and explore the castle.frango

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About a quarter of a mile east of the castle is a beautiful beach called Orti Amos, which translates in standing sand. The beach gets its name from the high sand dunes, but there are stairs you can use to get down to the beach. fran8

frago 5Are you still with me or have you wandered off into beach bliss heaven? Quite frankly, I couldn’t blame you if you have. As you can see, Crete is not lacking in the amazing beaches department. The waters are clear and a kaleidoscope of blues. The landscapes and backdrops surrounding the beaches aint too shabby either! But wait, there’s more! Here are a few other beaches that are also nice: Kournas Lake, Ombros Galos, Agia Roumeli (if you hiked the Samaria Gorge, you ended up here!), Chrissi Island, the Beaches of Kissamos, and Beaches of Elounda.

With this list, no matter what part of the island you find yourself on, rest assured that an amazing beach is not too far away. I hope I have convinced and inspired you to visit the island of Crete. Stay tuned for my next (non-beach related) post on Crete! As we say in Greek, Kαλό Tαξίδι (Kah-low Tax-eeh-dee), which roughly translates to have a nice trip!

The Layover: An Opportunity For Adventure

HS1Most people dread a long layover between flights.  Not me.  In fact, I sometimes purposefully plan a long layover, especially in a cool new city.  For me, a layover presents an opportunity for a mini adventure.

Recently, Chad and I decided to take a spontaneous trip to Crete, Greece to visit my dad.  We flew through Istanbul, a city to which neither of us had ever been.  So, we chose a flight with a 13 hour+ layover between Athens and Miami for the sole purpose of having a few hours to explore Istanbul. It was one of our best travel decisions!Istanbul AirportOur flight from Athens arrived in Istanbul at 11: 30 p.m.  With just our pre-planned and pre-packed carry-on bags in tow, we quickly made our way to the visa office to purchase our Turkish visas.  That’s right U.S. citizens, as of 2014, you now need a visa to visit Turkey.  It costs $30.00 per person and can be purchased right in the airport before leaving the secure area (you can also obtain an e-visa ahead of time for $20.00).  After securing our visas, we exited the secure area of the airport and found the shuttle for the land-side of the airport’s hotel.  This airport has a hotel within the airport that has two sides: the “air side,” which is inside the secure area of the airport and requires a boarding pass for check in and the “land side,” which is outside of the secure area of the airport but still attached to the airport.  We checked in for the night, had a hot shower, and got right to bed.

After a very early breakfast the next morning (which is included in the room rate if you just ask), we met Aykut from Istanbul Custom Tours.  He was waiting for us in the lobby before our scheduled meeting time. I had contacted him prior to our trip to arrange this day-tour, and he was very responsive and flexible. The nice thing about touring this early on a Sunday morning is that we missed all of the notorious Istanbul traffic (it is a large sprawling city of more than 14 million people).  Also, we had the city and its sights pretty much to ourselves.

Our first stop was to the Asian side of Istanbul to see the Bosphorus Strait.Bosphorus

AC BosphorusAfter a few quick picture stops, we made our way back over to the European side to visit the Old Town. We walked through Sultanahmet Square to visit the historic Hippodrome of Constantinople.

hipp2In the same plaza, you will find the German Fountain.  This is a classic example of looks being deceiving.  As you stroll through the Hippodrome, you pass a beautiful, but inoperative fountain. The fact that it is inoperative is by choice. This fountain was given as a gift from Germany to the Turkish people around 1900, which lead to an alliance between Turkey and German. Fast forward 20 years, Turkey ended up on the losing side of World War I, which sent Turkey spiraling into depression for decades to come. As a result, the Turks are no longer fond of the fountain; but it’s huge and immovable, so, as a tourist, enjoy its beauty.fountainOur next stop was to the Sultanahmet Mosque (better known as the Blue Mosque), where we were the first people in line as soon as the doors opened at 8:30 a.m.  We had the beautiful mosque nearly all to ourselves!BlueMosque

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BM2This is an active mosque where people come to pray.  All visitors are required to remove their shoes before entering, and the mosque provides plastic bags for you to put your shoes into and carry inside with you.  Also, women must cover their heads and wear a long skirt to enter. I anticipated this, and brought along a scarf, but the mosque also provides you with loaner scarves and skirts.  By the way, as Chad found out, men are not excluded from this rule.  Men must wear long pants.  If they are wearing shorts, like Chad was, the mosque will happily provide the man with a skirt to wear, and this will double as entertainment for me, and, now, for you! bm6

bm5Also, women are NOT allowed pass these wooden gates.  Men, however, are, but only if they are passing through to pray.  Please, please, please be respectful of the mosque’s and the religion’s rules.  While we were there, an English woman and her child walked into the prayer area, and it caused a bit of a scene.bm4Inside, the mosque is literally stunning.  There is so much incredible color and intricate tile and stained glass work. Even on a cloudy day (which was the case the morning these photos were taken), you get a sense of the awesome illuminated beauty that natural light provides in the mosque. bm7

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bm15After the Blue Mosque, we made our way to Hagia Sophia, which opens at 9:00 a.m., and is literally across the promenade from the Blue Mosque. We were again the first in line and the first into the museum.Hagia Sophia outside

hg0001To give you some perspective, the photo below was taken at the gates of the Blue Mosque looking towards Hagia Sophia.hg00000

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hg16By the way, unless you have been to Hagia Sophia, you may not appreciate exactly how hard it is to get a picture inside with NO people in it.  It’s like impossible! I do the impossible.hg9And, if you were wondering where the center of the world is located, according to the Romans, it’s right here! This is the spot where coronation ceremonies for Roman Emperors were held during the time that Constantinople (a.k.a Istanbul) served as the capitol of the Roman Empire (and basically the capitol of the world, as far as they were concerned).hg00

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hg30This is the Empress Stand (where she would stand in an elevated position to watch her husband be crowned Emperor), so naturally…hg22Meet Obama Kitty (a.k.a Gli).  Apparently, when Obama visited Istanbul, he made a stop to Hagia Sophia. This kitty happened to be inside that day, and she marched over to Obama and was rubbing up against his leg.  Obama liked the little kitty, so he picked her up and carried her around while he toured the museum.  Well, that was the best day ever for this little kitty because after that, she became famous. She was renamed Obama Kitty and was given a permanent home inside Hagia Sophia.obama kittyI don’t think Obama should get to feeling grand prize about this encounter.  Obama Kitty is very friendly, and she will basically go up to anyone for some love.  She immediately went to Chad and demanded rubs!hg14

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hg18After we concluded our visit at Hagia Sophia, we walked through a small bazaar (note, the Grand Bazaar is closed on Sundays) of beautiful shops, and we tasted Turkish Delight before making our way back to the airport.baz6

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baz3By the way, Istanbul is a shopper’s paradise!  If you like textiles, tiles, spices, teas, and jewelry, then you will feel like you died and went to heaven (and this isn’t even the Grand Bazaar!). Chad was thanking his lucky stars and giving alms to the time crunch gods.  That is okay, because WHEN we return, I will set aside an ENTIRE day just to shop this oasis of a shopping city!

We were back at the airport before 11:00 a.m. for our 1:30 p.m. flight, which was perfect timing to get through all the security measures at this airport as a result of the recent attacks, which included a car check, a screening at the entrance, passport control, security screening, and two more passport controls screenings at the gate. We counted SIX security and/or passport checkpoints in all. Suffice it to say that the we felt extremely safe and secure at the Istanbul airport.

Both Chad and I agreed that the layover adventure was well worth it. Rather than endure hours of uncomfortable and boring waiting at the airport, we saw everything described above in about three hours, which provided a fantastic introduction to Istanbul and to Turkey and left us with a desire to return for a more comprehensive visit. Planning the layover is crucial.  You want to make sure that you are laying-over during day light hours (or at least with enough daylight hours) so that there is an opportunity to explore.  You also want to have a specific plan in place for what you want to see or do and how you are going to get there.  Keep in mind that you have limited time, so choose the two or three things that are most important to you (depending on the length of your layover).  Build in 30 minutes travel time from the airport into the city and about 45 minutes for the return.  You want to take into account traffic, especially in cities that are known to have a lot of it (like Istanbul and Bangkok).  Also, make sure you return to the airport at least two (but preferably three) hours before your flight, as you will need to pass through security, and, depending on the airport, passport control to get back into the gate area.

Some other important things to keep in mind are that your luggage will likely be checked all the way through to your final destination, so be sure to pack everything you need for the layover day in your carry-on luggage.  Many airports have a luggage storage where you can lock your bags while you explore, but, if you hire a private driver like we did (and, I highly recommend that you do so as well so you are not at the mercy of public transportation and taxi cabs), you can take your carry-on luggage with you and leave it in the car. Second, check the visa requirements of the layover country.  You can usually purchase the visa in the airport before you leave the secure area. Finally, most airlines will pay for your hotel if you have a long layover, but there are some exceptions, and you should be aware of them before you go.  For example, Turkish Airlines will pay for your hotel for any layover that is over 13 hours (like ours was) as long as there is no other flight that comes in from your departure city (for us, Athens) from the time you departed from that city until the time of your next flight. We did not qualify for the hotel voucher because of this exception, but that was not an issue for us.  We simply took the shuttle to the land side of the airport hotel, which was outside the secure area and had our driver pick us up from the hotel lobby early in the morning. Trust me, the layover adventure sure beats sleeping on the floor inside the gate area until it is time to take your next flight! So, whether your layover is on purpose or just a matter of circumstance, take full advantage, and happy exploring!

Do you have any recommendations for fab layover cities?  If so, I’d like to hear about them! Leave me a comment or send me an email.

Paris: New Year’s In the City of Light (and Love)

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Guess what?  It’s not too early to start planning your New Year’s trip.  Actually, you should do it now.  I know it’s June, but trust me on this one.

Let me back up a bit and fill you in on a new annual tradition that I started, well, this year.  A couple years ago, I announced to Chad that I thought we should take a short, (relatively) cheap trip after Christmas and through New Years.  At first, he rebuked the idea, as he always does.  But, I eventually wore him down, as I usually do.  I came at him with logic, reason, and facts (this, my friends, is one of the many consequences of being married to a litigator; the others were nicely summed up by a friend of mine from law school who is also a blogger: How Lawyering Made Me Crazy)!

Allow me to share my reasoning with you.  First, we live in South Florida, and NYE in Miami is expensive.  You are not going anywhere for under $200.  Actually, $200 is a steal.  If you are only paying $200, jump on it, and then lower your expectations to like below sea-level.  As a result, we usually spend NYE at home with our dog, Toby, which is great, but not exciting (please don’t tell Toby, I said that!).  Second, most people don’t travel internationally during this time, so you can find some pretty decent deals! Couple that with lower fuel prices which should (but, unfortunately, doesn’t always) mean lower airfare prices, and a strong U.S. dollar, and you have a recipe for a fab five-day to one-week trip abroad with minimal time off work! Awesome, right? I know!

For these kinds of trips, it is important to pick a city in which you can spend the entire time. This cuts down on cost and hassle.  It is also important that the place you pick is a relatively quick and easy flight away so as to maximize your time. For our first NYE abroad, I knew Paris would be perfect! In my opinion, Paris is a five-day city.  Also, the weather is pretty nice, especially for a South Florida girl who never gets winter during the actual winter. And, Chad had never been.  Chad’s only rule for this new tradition I started was (and still is) that the entire trip (airfare, hotel, some meals, and all planned activities) had to be under $5,000.00 A travel challenge?!? I accept! If you are thinking that is a lot for a quick trip around the holidays, I feel ya, but remember, Chad and I don’t buy each other gifts all year.

Well wouldn’t you know, once my sister heard about our trip, she and her fiance decided to join us, and I suggested to them that they should take their engagement pictures while we were there! You are still welcome, Andrew!  So we all, well, me really, got to planning, and the next thing you know, we were ready to go! However, there is one detail that I did not and, quite frankly, could not have accounted for, and that was the horrific terrorist attacks that occurred in Paris in November 2015, you know, like less than a month before our trip was fully, planned, booked, and paid for. So now it was decision time. After some thought, we decided to not live in fear, and we carried on with our trip, and I am so glad we did! Paris for New Years was amazing!

Day 1: 

We stayed at the Hotel Pullman Paris Eiffel Tower. I chose our hotel based on one sole factor– proximity to the Eiffel Tower.  For the next five days, I wanted to wake up and see the Eiffel Tower and go to sleep under the twinkle of its nighttime lights.  Our hotel was literally the closest we could possibly get, and it was basically mere steps away from the Eiffel Tower.  We chose high floor rooms with Eiffel Tower view.  This was a worthwhile upgrade.  Check out our day time and night time view:

Morning View:

Eiffel am

Night View:

Eiffel night 2

After dark, every hour, on the hour until 1:00 a.m., the Eiffel Tower sparkles for five full minutes:

Eiffel light show

At 1:00 a.m., the Eiffel Tower goes dark, and it sparkles for five minutes one last time:

Eiffel night

Amazing, right?!?!  Mind you, these are regular Iphone photos with no zoom.  Our hotel was literally that close (and it had a pretty good American breakfast buffet with an omelette station included with the rooms, which, for me, is essential).

Upon arrival, I had planned a special surprise for Chad. You see, Chad is a good ‘ol Southern boy with a serious sweet tooth.  He’s never met a sweet he didn’t like, and, quite frankly, he was looking forward to putting a hurtin’ on the Parisian pastries.  I was too.  So, I thought, what better way to do that than to have us a little picnic right there on the lawn of the Eiffel Tower (the Champ de Mars)?  Did you know that there is a company that will deliver a picnic to you and even set it up for you?!?  I was pleasantly surprised to learn about Paris Picnics, which I hired to do just that! Our picnic included a blanket, utensils, glasses, wine, bottled water, a large baguette, a delicious assortment of cheeses, charcuterie (cured meats), fresh salad du jour, artisanal crisps, seasonal fruit salad, macarons, and chocolate!

collage 2

Picnic

Lovely, right?  I know! I don’t know about you, but as soon as I arrive at any destination, I am always starving, so this worked out perfectly.  Also, we had a night tour planned, so we needed to fuel up!

sites at night

pyramid squad

After our tour, we stopped into this great little bistro right across the street from the Louvre called Le Fumoir.  This is not a tourist trap.  It is teeming with locals, and the food was great! It is also a great lunch spot before or after your Louvre visit!

Louvre dinner

Well, all of it was great except for this:

Dick cheese

This is the most pungent and disgusting cheese I have ever had the displeasure of experiencing.  You see, we each had a three-course pre-fixe menu.  For the last course, you could order a dessert like a normal person would do in Paris or you can order a cheese course, like my sister, who doesn’t like desserts (you read that right) did.  This is a huge point of contention between Chad and my sister.  He cannot even begin to understand her anti-dessert position.  Well, let’s just say that she paid dearly for that decision because she stuck a good chunk of this bad boy in her mouth, and it tasted (and smelled) like dirty, sweaty feet.  I will spare you the nickname we gave this cheese because it is inappropriate for public consumption, but it is well-deserving of the name, and it will forever be known as such to us.

Enough of that.  Let’s get back to the fancy! There is a reason they call Paris the City of Light.  That reason is magnified times 1,000 during the holidays.  When we were there, the City was still beautifully dressed for Christmas, and the Christmas markets were still open!

Sorry for the blurry picture, but as you can see, I was standing in the middle of a very busy intersection to get this shot, so…

arch ar night
night street

christmas markets

night decor night streets 2

chandelier

SO MUCH SPARKLE!  By the way, any city that hangs enormous twinkling crystal chandeliers outside of buildings and also suspends them in the middle of the streets is my kind of city!

Another wonderful thing about Paris during this time of year are the amazing shop windows that are decorated for the holidays!  The department stores especially go all out (you’ll see what I mean in a moment), and the individual stores, especially the couture stores, have magnificent, interactive window displays that light up, have movable parts, and play music! These are best viewed at night, in all their lit glory!

I mean, who doesn’t need these boots!  Not shown are the mechanical dolls that were singing and dancing in the window next door!

store window 2

This Valentino window played the song and the window was cued to light up with the music! window

And this tree! I died!  It is made up entirely of glass balls and is suspended from the ceiling in the literal middle of Galleries Lafayette!

suspended tree

Okay, let us all take a moment to catch our breath from this magical display of fantastic-ness, because this was only DAY ONE people! By the way, the Galleries Lafayette has a roof-top bar with a view, so park your non-retail loving partner here and get to work on the multiple levels of french fashions that are housed within, and do not forget to get your value added tax paperwork (more on that below).  Photo creds go to my mom, who went to Paris four months after we returned:

roofotp2

rooftop

Day 2:

On Day Two, we hired a private guide to take us all around the city.  She had two jobs:  1) show us all the sites in (almost) every arrondissement in Paris and 2) feed us!  She delivered.

First the sites. Of course we hit the major neighborhoods: the 1st Arrondissement, which contains most of the Paris must-sees, the Tuileries, Pont des Art, Place de Vendôme, and Rue de Rivoli; the 3rd and 4th Arrondissements (The Marais); the 5th Arrondissement (Latin Quarter); the 6th Arrondissement (Saint Germain-des-Prés); the 7th Arrondissement (Eiffel Tower); and the 8th Arrondissement (where the famed and ostentatious Avenue Montaigne (think major couture shopping) is located).  During the tour, we saw sites such as:

The Arc de Triomphe

arch

The Pont Alexandre III, Paris’s most elegant and grandiose bridge

bridge

opera house

The Moulin Rouge.  We didn’t do the show because the party poopers (a.k.a., everyone but me) didn’t want to, but I have done it in the past, and it is worth experiencing it once.  There is a dinner show or you can just come see the show.  The dinner isn’t great.  It is just okay.  But you get the best seats with this option.  And, BOOK IN ADVANCE, especially for NYE. More on the importance of this below.

moulin rouge

The Sacre Coeur

sacre couer

Montmartre

monmarte

And of course, on this day, we went up the Eiffel Tower.  I cannot begin to express how absolutely imperative it is that you pre-buy entrance tickets to both the Eiffel Tower and to the Louvre Museum.  It literally saves you HOURS of time, especially if you are going during high season.  In fact, it is worth paying for a guide just so that they can get you through the guided entrances of these places.  The lines are UNREAL.  Our guide pre-bought our tickets, which included tickets to go up to the highest level.  Once you get through the line (we literally breezed through), you have to wait in a line to take the lift to the second and third floors (or you can take the stairs; there is no line for that. Good luck with that one!)

double eiffel

This is the view from the outer portion of the second level looking out onto the Champ de Mars.

view from Eiffel

This is the view from the inside of the second level.  You see that double line down there?  That is the line to get in from the entrance for people who did not pre-buy their tickets.  Keep in mind that this is 2:00 p.m. during low season!  If you take away one thing from this post, please let it be to pre-buy tickets (and not eat that cheese, but more importantly, to pre-buy tickets, a.k.a., skip the line tickets).

view from ET

Inside the Eiffel Tower, there are a bunch of shops and restaurants (including one good very highly rated Alain Ducasse restaurant called Le Jules Vern-book in advance and get ready to spend some coin) and even a champagne bar on the third floor! There is also a macaron shop that has an Eiffel Tower replica made of macarons!

macaron eiffel

And now for the food part of the tour!  First, our guide took us to the chicest epicurean food boutique called Fauchon.  In addition to having an amazing display of hand-crafted desserts, macarons, chocolates, a truffle bar, an amazing wine cellar, and the most delicate tea sandwiches that look like edible works of art, they have a tea selection that is literally out of this world.  Teas from all over the globe in the most swoon worthy combinations and fusions, displayed on a wall in the prettiest tins that you ever did see. These make fantastic gifts, and they are only available in Paris.  As in, you can’t order them online.  Trust me, I tried.

fauchon

After a quick stop here, we moved on to the original Laduree to devour fresh macarons and more pastries!  Now, you probably think that Laduree makes the best macarons.  I know I did, and let’s be honest, it’s a pretty damn good macaron.  By the way, did you know that the McDonald’s in Paris serves macrons made by Laduree?  I didn’t either.  However, that all changed the moment I discovered the dream that is Pierre Herme.  Trust me, these are the finest macarons that will ever cross your lips.  You will dream of these light fluffy macarons for the rest of your macaron-lovin’ life! More on that later.  Let’s eat Laduree!

original Lauduree 2

laduree dessert

original laudree

Our guide saved the best for last.  Take notes people, because this next gem is worth the trip.  If you even maybe like ice cream then do NOT, I repeat, do NOT, leave Paris without visiting Berthillion.  Berthillon is a French manufacturer and retailer of luxury ice cream and sorbet, with its primary store on the Ile Saint-Louis. If there is such thing as haute couture ice cream, then this is it. It has a menu of the most tantalizing flavors: fig, salted caramel (which is their most famous), pear, coconut, dark chocolate. I literally was losing my mind.

best ice cream ever

berthillion sign

When we went there was no line (probably because it was literally 50 degrees outside), but there usually is a line; like a long one.  I borrowed a picture form the internet to show you.  But, trust me, stand in it.  Even if it is an hour long.  The ice cream is that good.

berthillion line - Copy

While there are other shops and restaurants that serve Berthillion’s ice cream, go visit their original location.  It is tiny inside with no place to sit.  You literally order, move down the counter, pay, move down the counter, pick up, and then roll out.

inside berthillion

We were four people.  We ordered six double-scoop (mine was triple!!!) ice creams in cones and cups (get the cone!) just because we couldn’t decide on the flavors. I got pear, fig, and dark chocolate.  We, of course, tried the salted caramel, too, and the coconut.  All of them were phenomenal!

berthilion

chad ice cream

After all that eating, we needed in a nice, long stroll in one of Paris’s famous public parks.  Now, they may not look like much in the winter, but in the spring, when the flowers are in bloom, they are magical! Here we are in the Jardin du Luxembourg.

park

By the way, on this day, we stopped for lunch at L’Opera Restaurant, which is the restaurant located inside the Palais Garnier, which is also a must see as it is stunning inside.  I tried to get tickets to see a show, but none of the ballets running at this time were of interest.  In hindsight, I should’ve just gone anyway because it so grand and beautiful inside (photo creds to my mom’s #travelsquad).

Opera

opera house

opera 4

And, the restaurant…

restaurant

The restaurant served a pretty good three-course pre-fixe menu with wine which was reasonably priced by Paris standards. And, as if this day wasn’t awesome enough, it ended with a couture bang!

You see, every time I go to Europe, I buy myself one (well, mostly just one) swoon worthy handbag (and sometimes some shoes), and for this trip, it was the Celine Belt Bag.  Why do I wait, you ask? Let me tell you why– especially when the dollar is strong against the Euro (like it has been lately and was when I went), buying European designer bags in Europe (or shoes or clothes or perfume or whatever) is cheaper than buying it in the States.  First, the actual ticket price is cheaper.  So, while the large Celine Belt Bag will set you back over $3,000 in the U.S., in Paris, the large is just over 2,000 EU or approximately $2,500 USD.  Second, in the U.S. you pay tax on the bag.  You do too in Europe (it is built into the sticker price), but since you don’t live in the EU (I am, of course, assuming you do not live in the EU), you get your tax back through a glorious program called the V.A.T. (value added tax) global refund program. Consider it an additional percentage discount! The rate of return differs by country and there is a minimum that you must spend in each store to qualify (p.s., this only works on NEW goods, and not on the goods sold in the fab Parisian consignment shops) but in France, the VAT is about 20% and the minimum spend is 175 EU. Also, if you use a credit card on which you accumulate points, you are winning all around.  I like to use one that does not charge foreign transactions fees and, unlike American Express, is universally accepted.  My favorite is the Capital One Venture Card. TIP: Make sure you call your credit card companies before you travel to let them know exactly when and exactly where (as in each city and the date you will be in each) you will be traveling so that 1) they don’t stop your card and 2) they monitor for fraud after you have left.

There are some other important rules. First, you must ask for the paperwork at the time of purchase.  For the retailer to complete the paperwork they will need your passport or a photo of it (bring the photo!). They should give you a form with your receipt and you will need both at the airport.  Rarely, you will find a store that processes VAT in the store.  I have yet to come across such an establishment.  Second, retailers choose whether to participate in the VAT-refund program, so look for the sign or ask!  Third, the official rule is that you must present the new, unworn item with the documents at the VAT office at the last point of exit from the EU, regardless of where you made your purchases, so if you are traveling around Europe, make sure you know which countries are and are not in the EU (for example, Switzerland, Norway, and Turkey are not in the EU).  This part becomes tricky.  In Paris, it is a breeze. The VAT office is located near the Air France counters as soon as you walk into the airport, so BEFORE you check your luggage and pass through security.  Make sure to leave PLENTY of time to get through as there are LONG lines of mostly Asian women who bought up all the couture in Europe.  When it is your turn, present your passport and the item with the document, get your stamp, fill out the document, seal it, and drop it in the box.  Now you can check your bags and go home. Your refund should post to your card within two billing cycles, unless the retailer works with a refund service, like Global Blue.  In that case, you can visit their offices inside the airport, and they’ll give you your refund in cash on the spot, for a small percentage fee.

If the VAT office is located in the secure area (i.e., after you check your bags and go through security), you must carry the item on with you.  For me this is never a problem as I always carry on new, expensive purchases. Also, most of the European airports have fantastic duty free shopping inside the international terminals which avoids this entire mess!  The only problem is that the stores are smaller (I have yet to see a Celine, but all other major houses are represented- Chanel, Prada, Gucci, Hermes, etc.) and selections within them are limited. Anyway, happy shopping, and check out my new bag!

cwline 2

celine

Day 3:

It’s NYE day, and we set this day aside to explore the Louvre (with our pre-bought, skip the line tickets as per above).  Quick note here, check the holiday hours for the sites you are visiting if you go around Christmas, New Year’s, or a national holiday of that country.  While the Louvre was open on NYE day, it was closed on actual New Year’s day (but the Musee D’Orsay was not!).  Also, you should know, that even with the skip-the-line tickets, you will still stand in line. Likely a long line.  Not as long as the regular line, but still pretty long- at least 45 minutes (and that was in slow season). Even if you get there before they open. Because of this, and the sheer size of the museum, it is wise to take a guided tour.  Then, you really skip the line! We got lucky and found some friends we made the night before already in line and they were kind enough to let us in, and we took them up on it because when we got there way before 9:00 a.m., the line looked something like this photo borrowed from the internet:

skip-the-line

See that entrance right inside the pyramid.  That is where you skip the line.  Ridiculous.  But, no worries if you don’t want a guide and can’t find line friends.  I have some secret entrances for you.  Mind you, the one I tried to use was closed that day (of course!!), but maybe you will have better luck! I found this on the internet and inserted it into the itinerary I made for myself.  I am also including a list of the most important works to see in each wing:

ALTERNATIVE ENTRANCES:

For pre-purchased tickets, use Passage Richelieu, just off the Rue de Rivoli across from the Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre métro station.

Take the Métro to Palais Royal/Musée du Louvre. Enter the museum from underground—directly from the Métro station.

For shorter line, try the Carrousel du Louvre, which can be accessed off the Rue de Rivoli or by going down the external stairs to either side of the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel.  This is not for pre-purchased tickets, but is an alternative to the top. Enter the shopping mall, go down the elevator and the Louvre entrance is to the left.

Porte des Lions entrance provides direct access to the Arts of Africa, Asia, Oceania, and the Americas, but it is only open sporadically, and not at all on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Friday. The Porte des Lions is in the SouthWestern wing of the Louvre just before the Jardin des Tuileries. If you’re at the Louvre with your back to the Pyramid and facing the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel (the little Arc de Triomphe) walk across the street, under the Arch and then turn to your left.  Go to the across the grass and follow the Louvre wall almost to the far end of the Louvre.  Look for the arched doorway with the lioness statues flanking it. (see map below)

map

MAP OF ALL ENTRANCES:

entrance map

WORKS TO SEE WITH LOCATIONS:

DENNON WING

Da Vinci: Mona Lisa (First Floor) Where: Denon Wing, 1st floor, Hall 6; Virgin and Child with Saint Anne.

Veronese: Wedding Feast at Cana (in Mona Lisa Room). Where: Denon Wing, 1st floor, Hall 6

Consecration of Emperor Napoleon I (in Mona Lisa Room).

Daniele Da Volterra: The Battle of David and Goliath. Look in the center of the corridor. The surprising feature about this painting is that it can be looked at from the back, kind of like a sculpture! Where: Denon Wing, 1st Floor, Hall 8

Botticelli: Frescoes (Venus and the Three Graces Presenting Gifts to a Young Woman).

The Winged Victory of Samothrace (top of the staircase)

Michelangelo’s The Dying Slave and Rebellious Slave are on the ground floor sculpture gallery.

Greek, Etruscan, & Roman Antiquities: Venus de Milo (at the intersection of the Denon Wing and the Sully Wing).

19th century French Paintings: Delacroix’s Victory Leading the People. Where: Denon Wing, 1st Floor, Hall 77

SULLY WING Greek, Etruscan, & Roman Antiquities: Venus de Milo (Ground Floor at the intersection of the Denon Wing and the Sully Wing).

Sphinx

Hermaphrodite; Where: Sully Wing, Ground Floor, Hall 17

The Statue of Aïn Ghazal- oldest work in the Louvre; Where: Sully Wing, Ground Floor, Hall D

A small gathering of beautiful impressionist paintings by masters such as Monet, Degas, Pissarro and Sisley! Where: Sully Wing, 2nd Floor, Hall C

 

RICHELIEU WING

 

No big name works, but has 2 sculpture gardens on the ground and lower floors (housing the Marly Horses) and Napoleon III’s apartment on the first floor.

Second floor of the Richelieu wing has many works from master painters such as Rubens and Rembrandt. Some of the most notable works are the Lacemaker from Jan Vermeer and the Virgin of Chancellor Rolin, a 15th century work by the Flemish painter Jan van Eyck.

Lunch possibility: Café Marly  located in the Richelieu wing of the Louvre. Dine indoors or on the terrace.

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Also, check the websites of each museum you plan to visit. Each museum is closed one day of the week and is open late on at least one night of the week.  The lines tend to be better with later entrance times, and the galleries start closing 30 minutes prior to the museum’s closing time.  For example, the Louvre is closed on Tuesdays, but is open until 9:45 p.m. on Wednesdays and Fridays. Here are the highlights from our visit:

Louvre highlights

But the best part was lunch!  There is an Angelina’s Cafe inside the Louvre Museum, located in the Richelieu wing just outside the Napoleon III apartments.  Angelina’s is known for their pastries and their famous hot chocolate!

angelina sweets

Did you know that if you spent one minute looking at each of the 35,000 works of art exhibited in the Louvre, it would take you 64 days? What’s my point?  Have a plan!  You wont see it all, so prioritize what you want to see or take a guided tour of the highlights.  While the Louvre is certainly the most visited museum in the entire world, it is not my favorite in Paris (I am a fan of French Impressionism, think Van Gogh, Monet, Pissaro, Degas, Sisley, and Renoir).  The Louvre has more Renaissance era works, which Chad loves.

After your visit you have a few options (that is, if you still have stamina!).  You can access the Arc de Triomphe via the underground footpath, you can visit the mall and food court in the basement of the Louvre, or you can (and I suggest this option) exit the museum, walk through the Jardin des Tuileries, and find the Musee de L’Orangerie  on your left, which rarely has a line and which houses two rooms of panoramic walls covered with Monet’s Water Lilies.  This often overlooked gem is a must see – Monet himself designed the exhibition halls in Musee de L’Orangerie for optimal presentation and viewing of these specific works – and you can get through the entire exhibit in under 30 minutes.  It is fantastic, and these pictures don’t come close to doing them any justice!
lilies 2

lilies 1

After concluding our visit, Google maps told me we were mere steps (this turned out to be a little bit of a lie; I think Mr. Google meant blocks!) from a Christian Louboutin (my favorite shoes!), so we popped in for a visit to the store on Rue du Faubourg, and found a ferris wheel of shoes! By the way, don’t be surprised if you have to wait in line to get in.  Indeed, you should be surprised if you DON’T wait in line, especially for the original store.  They only let a few people at a time (about 5 to 6, depending on sales person availability) and you are assigned to a personal shopper while you are there. CL

In case you were wondering what my sister and her fiance were up to on this day, let me show you:

engage lights

engage tower

engage

engage bridge color

They were taking their engagement photos!  This was a great idea on my part, and I am taking full credit! There are many photographers that do this.  It costs about 300 EU for the photo session, and you pick three locations.  You also get all the rights to your photos on a CD and an online gallery.  Turn around time is two to three weeks.  If you want to hire day-of hair and make-up people to come to your hotel, that will run you (approximately) another 300 EU.

By now it was time to get back to get ready for our NYE dinner at the Michelin starred, Le Violon d’Ingres, which was one of the only decently priced pre-fixe menu splurge restaurants (relatively speaking for Paris) that I could find (at approximately 400 EU per couple), and trust me, I tried hard (one place wanted 1,200 EU PER PERSON WITHOUT ALCOHOL!).  The food was great, the ambiance was nice, and the service was attentive.

violon 2violomn3

This was the 1200 EU option:

1200

We rang in the New Year in what we were told was a fairly subdued celebration considering the tragedy that had recently occurred in this city.

NYE celebration

NYEaquad NYE2

NYE

Day 4:

There is nothing like starting the New Year off with a little travel and a little culture, so that is what we set out to do today. While most sites and restaurants were closed today, the Musee D’Orsay was not.  So, with pre-purchased tickets in hand, we waltzed right through the doors as soon as they opened! You can get through this museum in about two to three hours, depending on how much time you spend in each gallery.

The famous clock is located on the third floor just outside of the main exhibition halls that have many works from Monet, Renoir, Degas, and Pissaro.

dorsay clock

A former train station, this is the most architecturally beautiful museum in Paris, in my opinion.

dorsay musem

Highlights from the third floor collections include:

dorsay highloights 2

 

Dorsay highlights

If you love Van Gogh, like I do, then don’t miss this museum as the entire side of one of the wings on the second floor is pretty much dedicated to his work:

dorsay highloghjts 3

One of the only other things open and available to do on NYE day was a dinner cruise along the Seine River.  Yes, this is a little touristy, but it was a nice way to see the sites lit up at night and get a different perspective of the city.  Also, after much research, we determined that this company ran the best tour with the best food: La Calife.dinner cruise

dinnrt cruise food

While we were there, we learned about another cool dining on the go experience called Bustronome.  Apparently, it is a high-end double decker bus with a panoramic glass roof.  They serve you a three-course lunch or dinner while driving you by the sites of Paris.  Some friends we met (you know, the ones that let us cut the line at the Louvre) told us about it.  They had done it, and said it was fantastic.  You must book in advance, though.  Lunch is about 65 EU and dinner is about 100 EU.

Day 5: 

It’s our last day in Paris, and we wanted to make the most of it, so we started it off with a visit to the Picasso Museum with our pre-bought tickets. There was no line, and we got right in.  Here are some highlights:

Picasso 2

Picasso

Picasso 3

The best part about this museum (which you can get through in about two hours), is that it is located in/close to the Marais District, which is my personal favorite.  There are tons of beautiful local shops, cute little local restaurants, and this is Paris’s perfume district. This district is also a short Uber ride (that’s right, Uber, which is readily available in Paris and a great way to get around the City.  You just need wi-fi and your app.  If you are like me, you travel with your own wi-fi hot spot!) away from rue du Bac, which they should just rename to Sugar Heaven Avenue because we came upon a dessert mirage on this tiny street!

door

shops
french bistro

penhalogens

perfume

flowers2

Now, if you have a sweet tooth, pay attention to this next part:

sweets

The absolute best macarons I have ever tasted, with the most interesting flavor combinations I have seen, come from here:

macarons

macarons 2

If you like chocolate, boy are you in luck because right next door is Pierre Marcolini luxury chocolates:

chocolates
marccolini

But across the street is where the real gem is.  It’s called Chocolat Chapon, and it has a chocolate mousse bar made from chocolate from around the world!

chapon

inside chapon

mouse

But maybe chocolate isn’t your thing.  I mean, I don’t get it, but you are entitled to your own taste.  So, if that is the case, then do not miss Aux Merveilleux de Fred, the fanciest and most decadent meringues and cream puffs ever. Not only is the shop gorgeous, but the puffs are heavenly! Sorry about the blurry picture, but I was in a sugar coma at this point so it looked clear to me!

merengue store

Here is a better shot from the internet:

cream puffs

merengue

sweets 3

sweets 2

By then end of the day, we literally couldn’t move.  We ate so much.  But, we had one last stop to make, and if you love Monet, you will not want to miss this museum: Musee Marmottan Monet.  They have a basement FULL of Monet!  You can skip the upper floors and just go straight to the basement.  It will take you about 30 minutes to get through the whole thing, and it is time well-spent.

monet

Alas, our trip came to an end, but if we had some more time, here are a few day trips that we would have definitely done: a day tour to Normandy, a day tour to the Palace of Versailles, a day tour to Monet’s garden at Giverny, a day tour to Paris’s champagne region, and a day trip to Avignon and Provence (during lavender season, of course!).  My mom did the first three, and here are some highlights from her trip:

Normandy:

Normandy

normandy 5

Normandy3

Noirmandy 4

Normandy 2

Palace of Versailles:

palace

palace 2

palace 4

palace 3

palace 5

Giverny:

giverny 2

giverny

giverny 3

So, where are Chad and I off to this year to ring in 2017? Well, I guess you will just have to come back and find out! But, I will tell you one thing, it is already planned and partially booked!  Until then, arvoir and bon voyage to you!