If you’re being honest with yourself, Iceland probably only recently came on your radar. It’s not like you dreamed of going to Iceland since you were a child. In my opinion, social media has almost single-handedly boosted tourism to the once mostly unknown (from a tourism perspective) country. But now that you know about it and have seen all the amazing pictures, you HAVE to go right?!?! I mean, it is soooo cheap! You can get there in just a few hours and for just $99! I know! I felt the same way. Which is why I am writing this post.
Don’t get me wrong, we had a GREAT time in Iceland. The people are so friendly! The country is so beautiful! The food was delicious! But there were things about Iceland that I didn’t know until I got there, and I do A LOT of research for our trips. So, I feel like it is my duty to arm you with as much information as possible about this trip so that you come prepared and enjoy every second of it. Here we go …
FLIGHTS
There are basically two ways to get to Iceland: WOW Air and Icelandair. I am sure you have heard of WOW. Big pink planes? Low, low fares? Well, there’s a reason for that. You.Pay.For.Everything! Want a seat? It will cost ya. Bringing a bag? Gotta pay! Would you like to drink some water or eat a snack on the plane? Well, there are no freebies here. You MUST pay. FOR WATER! (This is NOT a joke).
So, assuming you can even find the $99 fare (they exist, but most of the time it’s slightly higher than that, like in the $200 range), you have to be prepared for the extras. And, that is also assuming you live in a city from which WOW departs. If not, then you have to factor in your domestic ticket, and don’t forget to leave enough time to claim your luggage, transfer to the international terminal, re-check your bags (and check yourself in), and go through security. Once you factor in all the extras, your $99 fare is more like $400 to $600, which honestly, is still pretty inexpensive.
Also, make sure you adhere to their very strict baggage restrictions because if you don’t, you’ll be paying. And, before you board, load up on snacks, drinks, and in-flight entertainment, because their planes do not even have TVs!
Icelandair is slightly better. Yeah, their base fares are higher, but once you add on the basics from WOW (which you don’t pay extra for on Iceland Air), there’s not much of a difference, and you can get JetBlue points for flying on Icelandair. Also, their baggage allowance is a little more generous, if you are making a stop and are flying JetBlue for the first leg, your bags will be checked all the way through, they offer a beverage service, and there is in-flight entertainment. So, if you ask me, it all shakes out to about the same in the end, with Icelandair being less of a hassle.
HOTELS/APARTMENTS
Iceland’s tourism really started to grow in the last eight or so years. First, they experienced a financial crash in 2008 and then, in 2010, they had a massive volcanic eruption which covered the European skies in ash and grounded planes all over Europe for days. As a result of these two events, the media flocked to Iceland to cover these stories, putting Iceland on the map. Since then, tourism has gone from an insignificant industry in Iceland to the island’s biggest industry. In fact, tourism has risen by 30% every year since 2010. Then Hollywood came a knocking: Game of Thrones, The Secret Life of Walter Mitty. Instagram followed, and before they knew it, Iceland had more tourists than they knew what to do with.
Why am I telling you this? Because, Iceland is still learning how to host and cater to tourists. This is most evident in its tourist accommodations. Compared to other cities, there aren’t that many hotels, and most people stay in apartment-type accommodations. If you are used to big, fancy luxury hotel brands, well, sorry about your luck. There aren’t any. Even at nice, corporate run hotels, there is a sense that something is just lacking.
For example, most of the flights get into Iceland at an ungodly hour (like 4:00 a.m. to 5:00 a.m.), so I suggest you book your room for the day before you arrive so you have a room ready when you get to the hotel. Don’t expect the hotel to accommodate you. They won’t. All they offer is luggage storage. So, you see many weary travelers napping in the lobby. Same goes for the apartments.
If you are lucky enough to get a hotel that serves breakfast, don’t expect much. It will be buffet style and basic. No omelette stations here. Any special requests will be met with looks of bewilderment. For example, a lot of the tour pick ups begin before breakfast does because you have to travel a long way. Most hotels in tourist cities know this and can accommodate guests with a breakfast box or bagged lunch. Not here. Thankfully, they have 24-hour grocery stores, so you can (and really, have to) fend for yourself.
If you are staying in an apartment, there will likely be no breakfast. But, that’s okay, you can go to the 24-hour mart and buy food to prepare on your own. But, check and make sure you have the necessary tools to cook (you know, like a pan) because a lot of the apartments have nothing!
Also, bring ALL your toiletries. The hotels will provide soap (from a pump bottle), and it ends there. No shampoo. No conditioner. Nothing. This is especially the case if you are staying in an apartment. Time to hit that 24-hour market again. But, I will say, the WiFi in Iceland is good, strong, and readily available!
FOOD/ALCOHOL
The food in Iceland is delicious. Fresh fish galore. But it is EXPENSIVE! Like very expensive. I dare you to eat dinner for two for under $150. I literally dare you. It is nearly impossible. And, not just at nice restaurants, but everywhere. A salad and pizza for lunch cost us $80! Lunch at the Blue Lagoon was $120!
Also, you need reservations everywhere. This is also not a joke. If you don’t pre-book restaurants, you are going to have one hell of a time finding a place to eat dinner. Again, this is another painfully obvious sign that, while well-meaning and friendly, the tourism industry in Iceland is simply overwhelmed and playing catch up. Time to get back to that 24-hour market! No, but seriously, even local, seemingly casual spots will ask you if you have a reservation when you walk in. The good news is that tipping at restaurants is not a thing here. Like, not even 10%. They literally don’t expect to be tipped.
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Also, a side note about the food: Some restaurants offer puffin (a cute little bird that looks like a penguin), Minke whale, and Icelandic horse on the menu. Please don’t order/eat these things. These are traditional foods that were eaten back in the day out of necessity. Most locals do not regularly (if at all) eat these things. They appear on the menu solely for tourists. Please don’t contribute to the terrible whaling industry or support the needless slaughter of cute little birds and horses. Okay, PSA over.
TOURS
You are going to be hard-pressed to find a company that offers individualized private tours. I asked around. They looked at me like I had two heads. Who would pay for that? (Um, ME!) They literally do not seem to understand the concept of private tours. The best you can hope for is a small group tour. Opt for that. It is a much nicer experience. Unless, of course, you want to rent a car and go at it alone; but I would not recommend that in the winter when there is about four hours of daylight and a whole lot of snow (sometimes causing unexpected road closures)! Most of the waterfalls and scenery spots are two or more hours outside of Reykjavik. In the spring/summer when there is endless daylight, you should be fine. Whether you take a small group tour on a mini bus or larger group tour on a big bus, you can rest assured that your vehicle will be equipped with WiFi. Also, most people were not tipping the guides; but, if you were on a small group tour, and the guide was good, you should tip. They don’t really expect it, but, in my opinion, it’s the right thing to do.
You are also going to have to pre-book these tours. They fill up fast, and they are also not that cheap. Because the weather changes so quickly in Iceland, make sure you have a Plan B activity in case your tour gets cancelled. Three of our tours got cancelled, but luckily, we were able to re-book onto other tours. Be mindful though that if everyone’s tour cancels due to weather conditions, a lot of people will be trying to re-book onto the few tours that are still operating, unaffected by the weather.
Finally, have an idea about what you want to see and make sure you are going in the correct season. For example, if Northern Lights is your goal, then you have to go in the winter. But, in the winter, you have limited day light (sunrise is at about 11:00 a.m. and sunset at about 3:30 p.m.), so you don’t get much time for day-time activities and there is no greenery. If greenery and scenery is your goal, then go during the spring or summer where they literally have almost 24 hours of daylight.
WEATHER
Which brings me to my next point– the weather. The locals say if you don’t like the weather, just wait five minutes. That saying is so true. One minute its snowing and the next the sun is out! So, come prepared! Depending on the season, it could be snowy, then cold, then FREEZING, then sunny all in one day. Bring layers– clothes for the cold and for the rain. And, now is not the time to be cute; wear sturdy weather-proof boots.
MONEY
The official currency is the Icelandic Krona, but most places take the Euro or the U.S. Dollar. But, if you pay in Euros or dollars, they will give you change back in Krona. My advice is to avoid all of this, and just use a credit card that does not have foreign transaction fees. Surprisingly, credit cards are widely accepted in Iceland. On planes, at hotels, on the tour buses, in taxis (in case you were wondering, there is no Uber here, but the entire city is very walk-able), in stores, and at restaurants. This way, you get the daily rate and don’t have to bother with cash.
THE NORTHERN LIGHTS
It’s basically on everyone’s bucket list. It’s like one of, if not, THE reason to go to Iceland. But, if you go to Iceland expecting to see all those (filtered!) photos from Instagram with your naked eye, you may be disappointed.
This is a pretty good explanation of the what the Northern Lights are. Visibility is measured on a scale (known as the Kp index) of 0 to 9. Zero means no chance of seeing the lights, while 9 means the best viewing ever in life. Just so you can temper your expectations, 9 hardly ever happens. In fact, the highest our guide had ever seen in all his years of chasing lights was a 7, and that was a rare event that he told us about with a great deal of excitement. He said he would basically die if he ever got to see a 9. In Iceland, a 5 is about the best you can hope for, but usually you get between a 2 and a 4. You can monitor the Aurora forecast for Iceland here.
You may want to take a seat for this next one. You should know that you rarely see the bright green color in person. To the naked eye, the lights appear as a whitish/grayish band that kind of looks like a wisp of clouds. On the night we went out, the forecast was about a 4, and, after many hours of standing outside and waiting in frigid temperatures, we saw a faint green color. I was not prepared for this. I thought I was going to see a magnificent bright, neon green band of lights dance through the sky. You know, like the ones I’ve seen on Instagram. I was wrong. I also thought I was going to capture this phenomenon on my iPhone camera! Wanna know how that turned out for me? Like this:
There are some iPhone apps that claim to help you capture the lights, but I could not get them to work. If you want to get fantastic pictures of the lights, you need professional grade gear. And it’s not enough to have a professional camera, a tripod, and the correct lenses. They all have to be set to the correct settings. It is very technical, so I found what appears to be the definitive guide on how to photograph the lights, and I linked it here. Amazingly, when you photograph the lights correctly, you can see all those beautiful colors right from your digital camera!
But don’t despair, here’s the good news: If you take a small group tour with a professional guide, the guide will set up your equipment for you and help you shoot the northern lights. If you don’t have all this fancy gear, the guide will also be shooting, and, at the end of the tour, the company will email you a file with all the lights from your trip already edited for you! Also, I learned a neat little trick. Apparently, the guide sets the shutter to flash like 10 times. He had us stand in front of the camera with the lights behind us. He then used his phone’s flashlight which he brought up to about eye level and then lowered again while the lens was shooting. Apparently, this helps people show up in the foreground with the lights in the background!
Finally, patience is a virtue with the lights. You sometimes have to drive to a couple of spots and just wait. It is VERY cold, so overdress in layers and pay special attention to your shoes and socks situation. There are no bathrooms, and you will be out there for about four hours. Although I was initially disappointed that the lights display was not quite as bright and colorful as I was expecting, it was still a pretty amazing experience, and I am so glad we did it.
THE AIRPORT
For being so relatively new to tourism, Reykjavik has a surprisingly impressive, modern little airport! First, it is all digital and almost all self-service. You can check yourself in, print your boarding pass, and print your bag tags all from self-service kiosks.
You get your boarding passes and bag tags here:
You check you luggage in on your own here: 
Even their security is fully automated! 
It is a very quick and easy process, which leaves plenty of time for you to stroll through their quaint little shops and have a real meal before you board your (meal-less) flight!
Even the restrooms are automated, allowing you to wash your hands and dry them all from the sink!
And, throughout the airport are little stations asking you about your satisfaction with check-in, security, the restrooms, and cleanliness!
As you can see, Iceland is a dichotomy of sorts. In some ways it is so progressive (airports, WiFi, credit card usage), and in other ways so primitive (accommodations, tour operations, and the fact that they believe in invisible elves who have their own political lobby (that’s not a joke; give it a Google)). Nonetheless, I absolutely recommend that you hop over for a few days and check it out for yourself. It truly is a beautiful country filled with incredible sights, delicious (albeit insanely expensive) food and friendly people.
If you have any questions about planning a trip to Iceland or want to share your own quirky Icelandic tale, leave me a comment below or send me an e-mail! Until then, Vertu Blessaður!
It seems like everyone went to Iceland in 2016. Instagram was littered with photos of the Blue Lagoon and the Northern Lights. Facebook and travel magazines touted the cheap airfares to Iceland and relatively short travel time. At least one person you know went to Iceland in 2016 (hell, even the Kardashians went!), and we were no exception. In early 2016, after returning from our New Year 2016 trip from Paris, I decided that we would spend New Years 2017 in Reykjavik, and I went into full research and planning mode.
The first thing you should know about the Reykjavik Food Walk team is that they are uber (as in, “super,” not the car service!) friendly, responsive, and accommodating. They respond to emails and are happy to give you suggestions and recommendations both before and during your stay. They will even help you secure dinner reservations (which, you will find out in my next post, are crucial if you want to actually eat anywhere in Reykjavik). I found them an absolute pleasure to work with and would recommend this tour to anyone (actually, I insist that you take it). It really is a great way to orient yourself to the city, while eating some great local favorites.
Each of the 13 nights, children place a shoe in their bedroom window. If they were good all year, they will find a treat in their shoe the next morning. If they were bad, they will find a rotting potato. Also, if Icelandic children don’t receive and wear a new article of clothing on Christmas Day, the Christmas Cat will come and eat them! The Yule Lads are descendants from Gryla, an ogress who lives in the Icelandic mountains. She also eats bad children! I think this is why Icelanders are so nice! Growing up, all they hear is about how they are going to get eaten if they are bad. Anyway, if you are interested in these folk tales, you can learn more about them 
During the four-hour tour, you will also taste 13 traditional dishes, including Icelandic lamb soup, 
You know what else I learned on this tour? If you ever you planned to go to jail, make sure you go to jail in Iceland. First of the 300,000 people in Iceland, only 89 are in jail. Also, until recently, the jail was located in this quaint little building in downtown (no bars, just views for days!):
You get a room with a view! Also, if you have a job and have to support a family, no problem! You can just check yourself out of jail and go to work and home for dinner as long as you check yourself back in at a reasonable hour! (Who is the arbiter of reasonable? I don’t know, and they don’t either!) But, you know what the BEST part is about jail in Iceland? On Sundays, they take the prisoners out for ice cream!!!! Not a bad deal, right?
Day 2:
For some reason, these people were there in traditional viking garb, but we didn’t mind because they made for great photos!
Up next was the amazing Reynisfjara beach, better known as the black beach. But, this is no ordinary beach. You CANNOT swim here. The wind is wicked strong and the waves are the most insane waves I have ever seen in my life. Like ever. In fact, tourists are warned to not stand too close to the shore, because more than one has been swept away by the swell and drowned. 
When BAE matches the beach: 
Seriously, these waves though… 
Our final stop was to the 
Day 3:
There is something surreal about being in your bathing suit in the snow and freezing cold. 
Our day didn’t end with the Blue Lagoon. After a short nap, it was time to eat dinner at what is considered Reykjavik’s best restaurant and hardest reservation to score, Dill. 
Dill serves classic Icelandic fare with a modern twist. It is a small place that offers two tasting menus. We had to do the shorter menu, because the weather had cleared up, and this was the first day since we arrived that the 
Day 4:
You also visit 
And, you stop at the 
But, perhaps my favorite part was an impromptu stop to meet the friendly 
They are so friendly and cute, so please do not eat them!
This was the perfect way to spend the last day in 2016! But, we had a whole evening of celebration ahead of us, which began with arguably our favorite restaurant in Iceland – Apotek. We came here first on the last stop of our food tour to enjoy a delicious dessert made by their pastry chef, who is so talented that he is the official pastry chef to the government of Iceland. Honestly, I understand why they chose him. We came back for NYE dinner, where we enjoyed a delicious pre fixe 5-course dinner with champagne for under $200 USD for a couple. On NYE. This, by the way, was one of the cheapest meals we had in Iceland. That’s not a joke. 
At midnight, we took to the streets to see the
And, of course, no NYE celebration is complete without a late night snack from Iceland’s most famous hot-dog stand! Bill Clinton (and the Kardashians) ate hot-dogs here. 
Day 5:
Booking the tour was super easy. The Elding team is very responsive to emails and very accommodating to its passengers. We made our way to the harbor and easily found Elding’s office for check-in. Just down the road from their office is the dock where you can find their boats. If you are worried about getting sea sick, they have a bowl full of Dramamine (both in the office and on-board), and you are free to help yourself!
Once on board, you are issued a jumpsuit which doubles as a life suit and an extra layer of warmth because it was freezing out! Check out this sexy #OOTD:
The boats are triple deckers, with the first deck being the internal cabin which is equipped with restrooms, a snack, bar, and barf bag stations! The second and third floors are exterior. The boat has a guide and spotters who do the work of finding dolphins and whales for you. As I mentioned, the day we went, the seas were very very rough, but the staff was very attentive and helpful to passengers that were not feeling well.
The tour lasts for about four hours, and while we did not get to see any whales, we did see 
Since we didn’t get to see whales on our tour, I was curious about what the tours that do get whale sightings get to see, and Elding was kind enough to provide me with photos taken from some of their other tours where whales were spotted, including humpback whales, 
In addition to whale watching tours, Eldin also offers fishing tours, northern lights tours, and, when in season, tours out to 
For the remainder of the afternoon, we walked the city streets to admire the street art and to visit the inside of the Hallgrims church, including a climb to the top of the clock tower to get some amazing views of the city!
Santa Cruz Island is the most populated island in the Galapagos. If you are doing a land-based itinerary, it serves as a great base for visiting Bartolome Island, North Seymour Island, and Santa Fe Island. By far, the nicest hotel on the island is 
Our second stop was to Manzanillo, a giant tortoise reserve, where giant tortoises live and roam free in their natural habitat. 
Then it was off to Finch Bay for some R&R. The nice part about Finch Bay is that you can book its naturalist programs (3, 5 or 7 day programs), which are all inclusive. That means you get the room, all meals, and excursions on the property’s yachts. As it turns out, this is a much better deal than going a-la-carte. Breakfast is a large American-style buffet with great selections, including an omelet station and some regional favorites. On full-day excursions, your gear and a fully catered hot lunch is served on-board their yacht. On half-day excursions, you come back to the hotel and choose off their giant menu of delicious selections. Every night, dinner is three courses, and the food is great.
Our first stop was to explore Bartolome Island and see the famous Pinnacle Rock, which is the best known landmark in the islands. On the way, a playful pod of dolphins would follow our boat. Once we landed on the island, a group of sea lions were there to meet us.
We explored the island on foot, climbing to a vista point to get a better view of Pinnacle Rock. The nice thing about this island is that, unlike some others, they have installed a raised walkway to protect the terrain and make the hike a little easier.
We next boarded the zodiac to cruise around Pinnacle Rock and scope out some penguins on our way to the lava field.
Our day ended with a snorkel, where Chad got to snorkel with penguins, sharks, turtles and sea lions. He later declared this a tie with his snorkel in Isabela Island for the best snorkel of his life.
We returned to the hotel for a quick bite to eat, and then we set out to visit the town of Puerto Ayora and the Charles Darwin Research Station, which, by the way, was not as impressive as the tortoise conservation program we visited on Isabela Island. This facility is probably more well known because it is located on the most populated island, and it was the home of 
Day 4:
The second part of the day was reserved for the visit to North Seymour Island where we saw some of the most dramatic landscapes, a ton of frigate birds (the ones with the big red swells under their neck), land iguanas, blue footed boobies, and sea lions. Lots and lots of sea lions!
When we got back from our excursion, there was just one more spot we had to hit before we left the Galapagos Islands- Las Grietas. Las Grietas is a series of volcanic crevices that were formed during the cooling of molten lava and has become a popular swimming destination. To get there, you have to hike about 20 minutes from Finch Bay Hotel on a trail that winds through a forest of cacti and over a beautiful salt flat. The water is cool, clear, and very deep.
Sometimes, a little spontaneity pays off, and this was a perfect way to spend our unexpected extra and last day in the Galapagos. The Galapagos Islands were a captivating and memorable adventure, and this trip has quickly moved up into the top three places we have visited in the world! I hope this 
It has been 18 days since Chad and I have returned from the Galapagos Islands, but it seems like a lifetime ago. Almost like a dream. Were we really even there? The Galapagos are so otherworldly, that as soon as you leave, you feel very far removed from your time there.
Day 1: We stayed at Iguana Crossings Hotel, which, by all accounts, is the nicest hotel in Puerto Villamil. The hotel is an eco-hotel and is the most innovative on the island. It is also beach front, so spring for an ocean view room. Behind the hotel is a wildlife-filled lagoon. The only problem with staying at an eco-hotel is the water use restrictions. The water in the faucets and the showers were timed to 8 seconds, so you had to keep pressing to have the water flow. Doesn’t seem so bad for the sink, but try showering in 8 second intervals! Also, the water takes some time to get hot. Other than that, the hotel is lovely, the staff is very friendly, and the full breakfast (included with the room) is delicious. 
This is the view from our balcony:
And this is the view from our bathroom: 
It’s kinda nice to wake up to a flock of social flamingos cackling outside. Also, the sunset view wasn’t too shabby either! This is unfiltered, by the way:
The hotel is aptly named since it does indeed sit right before an actual crossing for iguanas; and for whatever reason, when they cross the dirt road, they do so at the actual crossing.
But we didn’t have too much time to linger on property, because just two hours after we landed, we were already off to our first adventure: a trip to Las Tintoreras! Las Tintoreras is a chain of small islets. You must take a boat from the harbor about 10 minutes away to reach the small island. On the way, you see plenty of manta rays and sea turtles. 
Prior to reaching Las Tintoreras, the boat took us on a small sea cruise where we spotted our first blue footed boobies and a penguin!
We also met some local fishermen who were cleaning their day’s catch – the large and sweetly delicious Galapagos lobster, which we later ate for dinner that night.
Upon arrival, we were greeted by the plentiful 
We disembarked from the small boat and began our island exploration.
But for the wildlife, the island is uninhabited, and you must visit the island with a naturalist guide. There is a trail full of iguanas (so watch your step) that leads to a bay that is located within a volcanic crack. From the crack, you can see white tip reef sharks.
If you continue to follow the trail, you will find yourself on a deserted beach where sea lions hang out.
From there, you must turn around to return to the location where you boarded the boat and go to another little snorkel spot. Upon returning from the trip, we were greeted at the port with more lounging sea lions.
Day 2: Today we had an early morning tour to Los Tuneles, a place where lava flows formed unique, arcs, tunnels, tubes, and lava bridges both above and below the ocean and offers some of the best snorkeling on Isabela Island; and, according to Chad, the best snorkel he had in all of the Galapagos! It was a regular ole’ sea sanctuary. It takes about 45 minutes to get there by boat, and, honestly, the waters can be kinda rough on the ride out. We weren’t too worried because our captain was a man they called the Ecuadorian John Travolta (and, I am still kicking myself for not getting a picture of him because he did look like a pudgier, Latin American John Travolta!), and his first mate was JESUS (of whom I managed to get a picture).
Is it not total perfection that he is holding a fish? So, on the way to Los Tunneles, you pass this rock where penguins usually hang, so the boat will stop to scope them out (cue major sea sickness, even if you aren’t prone to it). While you are busy spotting birds, Jesus throws out clear fishing line from a spool (like, he doesn’t even use a fishing rod) that has a hook at the end, and within seconds, he is pulling up fish by the dozens.
Snorkel time! In case you were wondering, while the water is clear, it is also cold (about 65 degrees Fahrenheit). Pretty much every tour operator has wet suits, masks, and fins for your use while snorkeling, and everyone went in with a wet suit.
After hitting two snorkel spots, you make your last stop at Los Tunneles, where you disembark and explore the lava tunnels and all the boobies waiting to welcome you! By the way, these pictures do not do this magnificent place any justice, like not at all.
Another fun fact about this incredible place – see the tall skinny cacti in the picture below? These are called candelabra cacti. They grow out of the volcanic rock at the rate of one centimeter per year (or about one meter every hundred years); so, the cactus on the left hand side of this picture is about 400-500 YEARS OLD! Pretty amazing, right? 
Once back on Isabela, I stopped by for a visit with my sea lion friend again. 
We had the rest of the afternoon free, so we decided to do some independent exploration. Every morning, we saw this bridge, and we wondered where it went, so we decided to find out.
The trail is about a mile long on pretty flat terrain. It is a scenic route that has two flamingo lagoons along the way. It also has some cute little rest areas.
But, it is what is at the end of the trail that is the real treat- a giant tortoise breeding center!
And, in case you missed the first sign, there is this one here:
Honestly, we are glad we came here because there were hardly any people, it is not at all touristy, it is free, and there are several tortoises from all stages of life in different pens. Also, not to spoil it for you, but this breeding center was way bigger, had many more turtles, and was way more impressive than the Charles Darwin Research Station on Santa Cruz. Sorry, Charlie, but that’s the truth!
Day 3: Today’s itinerary called for a hike up Sierra Negra Volcano. You know, prior to this day, I was complaining to Chad that I did not think we were getting enough exercise on this trip; and then the volcano day arrived, and I shut up. For the rest of the trip.
Do not be deceived by the start of this trail. You hike on a road like this for about two hours. Not so bad, right? Looks kind of flat. See how our guide is dressed? I was like, that’s a little over-kill. Then, about half way through, I understood. You are on the equator. You need a hat for this. And about a ton of sunscreen (like all over your face and legs; any exposed part really). And SPF lip balm. Or like a face mask, really.
Plus there are pretty flowers along the way that grow wildly: 
And fresh guava that you can eat:
After about two hours, you are rewarded with this view. But, this is about half way. You still have to walk around the rim. 
Rim walking:
This was a good time to take a little reflection break: Stunning views with almost no other hikers, it was so quiet and peaceful. 
Plus, about a million of these are in my shoes: 
You start to worry when you see the bones because at this point, you feel like you may die, too. 
But, as the sign reminds you, you still got more climbing to do: 
See the faint green back there. Well, that is where we got our first view up top after two stinking hours of climbing. Look at us now! 
At long last, we made it to the top of the easier route. This is where Internet comes from!! Just kidding. Kind of. These are GPS systems and seismographs. 
Okay, time to trek back down!
At the end of the pathway, you will reach a wooden landing that has benches on the left, and wooden poles to hang your stuff on either side. There are two staircases that lead down into the (cold!) water. This is what the lagoon looks like: 
You aren’t supposed to go past the rock in the middle. While we were visiting, one of those lazy sea lions decided he was hungry. He came waddling up the walk to the platform, made his way down the stairs, and shot like a bullet through the water looking for fish! 
This was a great way to spend our last day on Isabela, and I am so glad we didn’t miss this place. Unfortunately for us, all good things must come to an end; but, we were excited, because up next was Santa Cruz Island! Isabela is a special island in the Galapagos not to be missed – truly a nature lover’s paradise; and whether you are doing a cruise or a land-based itinerary, I HIGHLY recommend that you make a point of staying a couple of days here.
So, you want to go to the Galapagos Islands. Good choice! It is a literal paradise. But, if you have done any research at all, you may have already figured out that getting to this slice of paradise is not as easy as just jumping on a plane and going. Getting to the Galapagos Islands is a process.
Once on Santa Cruz, and, in addition to exploring this island (which, honestly, doesn’t have much wildlife other than marine iguanas, sea turtles at Tortuga Bay, and the land tortoises at the Charles Darwin Research Station), you can take day-trips to Santa Fe, North Seymour Island, Bartolome, and South Plaza Island. All of these excursions offer great snorkeling and opportunities to see other animals on the islands, especially North Seymour Island.
But, I digress. If you choose the flight option, here is what you have in store:
Try to sit in the first row for the best view!
This is your first stop. You will need your passport, and you need to pay $20 USD per person
Any unprocessed food or nuts will be confiscated. Only after you passed through here may you approach the counter to check in to your Galapagos flight. If you hire a travel agent, there is a local agent that takes you to the airport and does ALL of this for you while you comfortably sit and wait.
Once you get to the Galapagos, the real fun begins. First, you enter the airport and must pass through their customs. You will need your passport and the form mentioned previously (this is also where you will pay the aforementioned $100 USD Galapagos National Park Fee). You will also get a neat Galapagos passport stamp! Then they will scan your bags … again!
After this, you move to the luggage collection area. There is a long yellow line. You are not to cross this line and collect your bag until you are told to. Why? Well, your luggage gets checked again. By a dog; a fruit and vegetable contraband sniffing dog. So, all the luggage comes out and is lined up on belts. The dog comes around and sniffs each and every bag. If your bag passes the sniff test, then the plastic zip tie is cut off. Once all bags have been sniffed and approved, they allow you to collect your bag in what turns our to be a chaotic free-f0r-all!
After you collect your bag, you either check in for your next flight if you are flying to Isabela or San Cristobal or you go out to catch the bus that will take you to Santa Cruz for your stay there or for your next ferry ride to Isabela or San Cristobal.
Have you ever dreamed of visiting the middle of the world? Well, you can, and we did just that for a day en route to the Galapagos Islands!
Did you notice that there is an O instead of a W for west? That is because in Spanish, the word for west is “oeste”!
However, in 2000, some Americans came with their fancy newfangled GPS and ruined the party for everyone! As it turns out, the true equatorial line is not actually located where the big Monument to the Equator was built (OOOOPPSS!). It is instead located at a site that is 240 meters (or .15 miles) north of the marked line. I mean, when you think about it, having a discrepancy of less than three football fields away for some 18th century scientist with primitive instruments is not too shabby. And now the Ecuadorians have two tourists attractions to offer its visitors! It’s a win-win, really.
The real Mitad del Mundo entrance fee is $4 USD, including the guided tour. Bring your passport with you because after your visit is over, you can get your passport stamped! Admittedly, the first part of the tour is a little cheesy and touristy, but towards the end, you see the true equatorial line and they have a bunch of exhibits and interactive experiments in which you can participate.
There is also a Coriolis effect demonstration to show you how water turns/drains based on what hemisphere you are in (clockwise, counterclockwise or straight down with no circular movement). Then there is an experiment that is kind of like taking a field sobriety test. Apparently, most people don’t have great balance on the equator; except for me! I have excellent balance on the equator (thanks, Pilates!). They ask you to stand on the equatorial line with you arms out, hand open with thumbs up, head up, eyes closed, and walk the line heel to toe. Most people stumble right off; except me. In the battle of me vs. the equator, I win (Chad, not so much)!
Once the experiments are over, you are lead through their gift shop (of course), and then, on your way out, you can get your passport stamped with this cool little stamp!
If you have just one day to visit Quito, make it a Monday. Why Monday, you ask? Well, every Monday morning at around 11:00 a.m., the president of Ecuador comes out to say, “Hola,” and gives a progress report. Pageantry ensues. Think of it as your welcome party. I did!
Unlike some other Latin American cities (like Cartagena, for example), the street art scene hasn’t really taken off here, but there are a couple of pieces around the city.
There are other charming and, quite frankly, odd things about this city, too. For example, every day, the indigenous people from the surrounding villages come into town to sell their produce for really cheap on the streets. There is kind of a constant farmer’s market around the city, and they are typically traditionally dressed. That’s the charming part.
And then there is this guy. Apparently, he’s the weight police. He sits outside with a scale, and for $.25 USD, he will weigh you (by the way, the official currency in Ecuador is the U.S. Dollar). Why on earth anyone wants this service is beyond me. Public weighing?!? No, thanks! According to our guide, many people don’t have scales in their home, but they like to weigh themselves, so they come weekly, and some come daily. The only saving grace is that, apparently, you weigh 2 pounds less on the equator, which may be enough to have me just move here for good!
Another interesting facet to this city is that in Quito – more so than in other Latin American countries – the melding of the Catholic religion with the secular culture of the indigenous people is more pronounced and pervasive in daily life. Case in point: on almost every corner, you can find a Jesus store. These stores sell figurines that are supposed to be depictions of Jesus from all walks of life. People buy various “Jesus dolls” for prayer, offerings, and good luck. For example, we saw baby “Cheff” Boyardee Jesus and many other kinds of Jesus, like gaucho pilgrim Jesus, scales of justice Jesus (or as Chad called him, baby lawyer Jesus), and Pope Jesus. Please don’t construe this as sacrilege; rather, simply a statement of fact about what you will find in Quito.
People actually buy and use these Jesus dolls – as exemplified by this girl, who we saw checking into our flight back home with baby airplane Jesus.
And, you will find a cute and delicious ice cream spot called Dulce Placer Heladeria. Everything is homemade using local ingredients, and you can enjoy the ice cream on a small colonial balcony overlooking the neighborhood.
If you have more time to spend in Quito, consider a hike up Pichincha Volcano to the lookout point called Cruz Loma. If hiking isn’t your thing, take the TeleferiQo Cruz Loma, which is the highest aerial lift in the world, rising from 10,226 feet to 12,943 feet. There are also a few day trips that you can take, like a trip to the National Park of Cotopaxi and the Cotopaxi Volcano, a trip to the Mindo Nambillo Cloud Forest, a trip to the indigenous markets of Otavalo and/or CotaCachi, a trip to the Papallacta Thermal Baths, or the one I was most interested in, a day-trip to Lake Quilotoa, a crater lagoon.
I hope you enjoyed this post. Have you visited the middle of the world? If so, I would love to hear about it. Please send me an email or leave a comment below. If this post has inspired you to travel to Quito, helped you plan your trip there or gave you tips during your travels, I would also love to hear about it!
The colorful concrete rainbow that is the historic district in Cartagena, Colombia is certainly captivating, especially for photographers and architecture lovers alike. Every color on the spectrum can be found painted onto the colonial-styled buildings. Cartagena is eye candy for days. But how did the city get so colorful? Well, as the story goes, Cartagena originally had a law that required all buildings to be white. One day, a very entrepreneurial eye doctor (one who happened to own a paint company) convinced the government that the strong beams of the sun’s rays reflecting off of the city’s all white buildings was ruining its citizens’ eyesight. The city fathers agreed, the law was changed, and the doctor retired from medicine to preside over his booming paint business! Okay, I may be taking some editorial liberties on the retirement part, but I imagine that’s what happened. Regardless, thanks to this enterprising ophthalmologist, we now have a kaleidoscope of colors to enjoy in Cartagena!
To get here, you stay to the left of this church and go half way down the first street on your left hand side. The hotel will be on your right. By the way, this church is the Getsemani central meeting spot. At night, locals and some tourists alike join the sea of street vendors selling food from carts and street performers. In Cartagena, music is always playing. Every day and all day long.
The staff here is super friendly and very helpful. Our room was ready right away. It was a nice-sized room with a comfortable queen size bed. It had an air-conditioner unit and 3 fans, two in the room and one in the bathroom. This may seem like overkill, but it’s not. Cartagena is HOT AND HUMID! Maybe one of the hottest places I’ve been, and I am a South Florida girl! It’s hotter than “winter” in Thailand and Cambodia. Plus, it is so close to the equator that it feels hotter. It’s hot during the day and at night.
After checking in and dropping our bags, we made a bee-line into the walled city to meet our guide for our street food tour! This was sort of a last minute tour that we scheduled to fill the afternoon, but it ended up being one of the best because we got to try a lot of local street food from trusted vendors, learn some interesting things about the city, and see some beautiful street art. Most of the street food in Colombia is fried, so it is relatively safe to eat, but a good rule of thumb is to only eat from vendors that are actually cooking the food in front of you as opposed to vendors who are selling pre-made food.
Local made cheese and guava on the go:
The street artists here are very talented. If you have ever been to Wynwood in Miami, this is similar, but not quite as big as Wynwood. It does, however, have a more interesting story.
Along the way, I kept seeing small birds in cages hanging from trees. Our guide explained that these were peoples’ pets that they brought with them to work and hung in the trees through the work day. 
He also said to not be surprised if we saw locals “walking” their birds in the cages in the early mornings or evenings. I thought he was joking, and then one morning, we saw this:
Here is another fun fact we learned on this tour — all over the city you will see men selling coffee, candy and cigarettes:
And, while I certainly do not condone or recommend such things, if you are looking for a certain kind of “candy,” apparently, many of them also sell drugs. That’s right, drugs! According to our guide, they are all cartel-connected. Another fun fact, prostitution is legal in Colombia! I was starting to realize why Cartagena was such a popular bachelor party destination: beaches, casinos, drugs, and prostitutes! Sounds like a party! If you are interested in the back story on how our little drug-peddling friends ended up in Cartagena, like so many of the world’s woes, you can blame Hollywood! When filming the movie The Mission, the filmmakers realized there were not enough “native looking” Colombians around Cartagena; so, they imported over 500 of them to use as extras from the more remote interior regions of Colombia. Once they got there, these country natives decided that they liked the big city, wanted to stay, and needed something to do in order to make money. Yada, yada, yada, Colombia’s best known commodities (coffee and cocaine) are now readily available on the streets of Cartagena!
Had we caught the sunset, it would’ve looked something like this photo I found on the wonderful wide web: 
We also visited the Monastery and Chapel of Our Lady of the Candle.
Our next stop was to the San Felipe de Barajas Fort.
At the fort, we met this colorful lady:
By the way, these lady vendors in colorful dresses are everywhere. They are happy to pose for a picture…for a price! Here are some other colorful ladies you may run into in Cartagena, but these pictures are not mine. I just love them, so I am sharing.
From the fort, we our way to the old city, where we took a leisurely stroll around the old walled city admiring all the old colonial architecture and basking in the beautiful color of the buildings.
Inside the walled city, we visited the Sanctuary of Saint Peter Claver.
Right around the corner from the church is a small cigar shop that Bill Clinton frequented when he visited the city:
After our tour, we stopped for lunch at the delicious (and beautiful) Alma Restaurant.
This is where I discovered the delight of my life: Coconut Lemonade. After this encounter, I stopped for one everywhere we went, and, after taste testing a dozen or so, I can confirm that Alma makes it best. I think it’s the added touch of coconut shavings that makes it. Trust me, after a long hot day, this is like a cold, sweet oasis in your mouth! 
Alma is also where I got a major case of bathroom envy: 
And, in case you were wondering, Cartagena is just as beautiful at night as she is during the day:
And, like I said before, it is hot and humid in Cartagena, even at night, so if you see a popsicle shop (and you will because they are all over), pop in and treat yourself!
Day 3: Beach and Off the Beaten Path
On our way out, we were greeted by some roadside cows!
If you want to avoid this mess, you need to walk in the opposite direction for about 15 minutes towards the beach-front hostels. There is literally almost nobody on the beach here, and, in my opinion, this is the only enjoyable way to visit this beach.
In hindsight, I would probably skip this beach altogether and opt for a private boat to the Rosario Islands, not a public multi-island stop that vendors will try to sell you on the streets of Colombia. I researched this option before leaving and opted against it because I was being quoted $2,000.00 USD for private boat rental by some companies. After speaking to Camilo, he said he could arrange a tour for us on a private boat for $700.00 USD. Our hotel offered the best deal for a private boat tour on a pretty nice 28-foot boat for $400.00 USD for the day.
Once upon a time, four friends graduated law school and real life began. They moved all over Florida, got jobs, got married, and half of them had kids. Gone were the carefree days of Gainesville, Florida (Go Gators!). Now, if the four friends want to get together, they have to coordinate schedules, clear calendars, take time off work, consult with husbands, and hire babysitters. But that is okay, because, once a year, the four friends do just that. This year, they convened in Savannah for three (mostly) carefree days of exploring, shopping, and eating.
We got into town in the early afternoon, and, since we were all starving, we made a beeline to 
If you get there early enough on a weekday, you may want to line up for 
Our next stop was to 
For dinner, we headed over to 
After dinner, we walked over to 
Day 2:
After breakfast, we had a full day of exploring ahead of us! When you think Savannah, think antebellum architecture, historic cobblestone squares, and Spanish moss. There are so many quaint little streets and shops to explore. Once you visit, you will understand why Savannah is chosen as the backdrop for so many movies. 
The Forrest Gump feather flew by this steeple at the beginning of the movie: 
If you love old, historic homes, then this is the town for you.
Iconic Jones Street: 
The Mercer Williams House:
If you like to shop local, you will love Savannah. In addition to cute (but pricey) clothing boutiques and some great home decor stores (like 
If you like your chocolate fancy, then head over to 
Speaking of honey, 
They have a honey tasting bar:
For lunch, you could plan a picnic in 
Sadly, summer is officially over. But that’s okay, because it’s never too early to plan for next summer, and I am here to help you with a little Greek Island inspiration. As you may already know, I am Greek. What you probably don’t know is that my dad lives in Greece on the island of Crete in a small village called Anopolis. Nestled in the White Mountains, Anopolis is a village of Sfakia, which is located in the southwestern part of Crete and is a prefecture of Chania.
I dare you to find a beach that is more visually stunning than Balos Beach. I mean, it is literally shaped like a heart because you fall in love with it as soon as you feast your eyes upon it, which is good since getting here can be a challenge.
I HIGHLY recommend that you get here early (like before the ferries start coming in). There are very limited parking spaces relative to the number of visitors. Once the parking lot fills up, they park you on the side of an unpaved mountain road with no guardrails (it’s pretty interesting to have to make a three point turn to turn the car around to leave), and you have to walk the rest of the way, which, depending on how many people are there that day, could be a long walk. For us, it was 10 minutes, and that was just to get to the path that takes you to Balos Beach. This was the parking situation at noon:
If you have to park outside the lot, you will have to walk towards the lot to reach the path that takes you to Balos Beach. That path takes another 30 to 40 minutes. It is also unpaved and there are stairs at some parts. It starts out flat and then you climb down stairs to get to the beach (which means you climb up to get back!), so I suggest you plan very carefully for what you bring with you to the beach, and, do yourself a favor and wear sneakers, hiking shoes, or water shoes. Now is not the time to be cute! You will instantly regret flip flops. And, it’s hot! Put on sunscreen, drink water, eat protein bars, wear a hat, and just survive! The good news is that you can take a Donkey Taxi more than half way (both to and from the beach) for about 4 Euros. The great news is that you get the most beautiful pictures ever. The path to the beach begins where you see this sign:
The road starts out looking like this, and you’re all like, what’s the big deal:
About half way, it turns to this: 
But, before it gets to that, you see this:
You’ll know when you’re there when you see this, like a shining oasis: 
Sweet relief! 
This is the lagoon side:
The water is shallow and cool, and the sand is pink!
If you didn’t do it on the way in, on the way back, you’ll probably be like: 
Otherwise, it’s this: 
Elafonisi Beach is also found in the prefecture of Chania, about 47 miles from Chania. There is a main beach and a islet that is joined by a sand bar. To get to this beach, you can drive and park in a dirt lot just off the main entrance to the beach or take a cab or 
Once you park, you will see a bunch of snack carts and a small beach restaurant. Walk towards the action to get onto the beach. Just before you get onto the beach on the left, are a series of four trailer toilets (American style) that clean, stocked, and cost 1 Euro to use. This will be your view as you step onto the beach:
This beach is crowded, and there are chairs and umbrellas for rent, but it is also so large that you can literally escape the crowds.
To do that, you can walk through a shallow water pool/sandbar and go through the nature preserve part:
Where you will find a much less crowded beach: 
The sand here is also pink: 
Because I feel like my pictures really don’t do this beach justice, I did a Google search to find you some better ones that really capture this beautiful beach, and 
Is this real life?!? It is in Crete! This is Preveli Beach, which is located in the prefecture of Rethymnon, by the Preveli River and the famous palm forest. As with all the good Cretan beaches, there’s the easy way and the hard way to get here. The easy way is to take a boat from Plakias or Agia Galini. The hard way is to drive. From Plakias, you will drive to the Preveli Monastary, and about a mile before you reach the monastery, you will park your car and walk down a seemingly endless amount of steep stairs that lead to the beach. The best pictures are on this route. Apparently, you can also drive a dirt road leading to the nearby village of Drymiskiano Amoudi and walk a short 5 minute path to the beach. There are places to rent kayaks if you want to kayak down the river to get to the beach. Full Disclosure: I have not yet been to this beach yet (so this photo is borrowed from good ole’ Mr. Google), but it is on my list for when I return to Crete in May, so I will update this post then.
About 13 miles from the city of Chania, you will find this gem. To get here, drive towards Chania airport, and turn left towards village Chordaki and then follow the signs to Rizoskloko. Signage will lead you to the beach. The road is paved all the way, but the last part of the road is a small, winding mountain road with no guardrails. You will come to an area where you can leave your car, and then you set out on foot for about 15 minutes down a steep path of stairs to get to the beach. The beach gets very crowded in season, so go early. Also there are no amenities on this beach, so if you need it, bring it. The photos of this beach are brought to you courtesy of my god-sister, fellow wanderluster, and Cretan beach expert, Roula.
There are only two ways to get to this beach, which is located in Sfakia (where I am from) in the prefecture of Chania and literally translates into Sweet Water Beach- 1) drive, leave your car on the side of the road and walk this path about 30 minutes to the beach or 2) come by boat via the water taxis from Sfakia or Loutro. The beach is rocky and there is a small snack bar in the water perched on some rocks, but the water is crystal clear and cool.
Like Elafonisi, Falasarna Beach, which is also located in the prefecture of Chania, is made up of several sandy beaches. Because it is on the west coast, this is a great beach to catch the sunset. The easiest way to get here is to drive the hour from Chania; otherwise, you can take the public bus, which runs routes during tourist season.
If you were brave enough to hike 4 hours through the Aradaina Gorge, guess where you ended up? Right here! Truthfully, you came to a road that had a passage for a steeper road down to the water which lead you here. This beach is also in Sfakia, about 53 miles from Chania. You can drive here (park your car up top on the side of the road and walk on down that steep path) or take a public bus to Sfakia and then take a boat over. There is a small tavern on the beach and a few umbrellas and sunbeds, but that is about it. There are some great caves to snorkel in, but the water is very deep.
If you want to visit a true beach town, head to Loutro, in the prefecture of Chania. There are no cars here and no roads, just beaches, hotels, tavernas, and shops. There are only 2 ways to get here: 1) by foot and 2) by boat. You have to be a serious hiker to get here by foot. If that is you, take the bus (or drive) to Sfakia. You can start your hike here. In fact, you can visit Glyka Nera (number 5 above) first as you can start your hike here and the same trail will end at Loutro. This is a long hike and will likely take 3 or more hours. Alternatively, you can come to our village (Anopolis) from Sfakia, and start your hike basically from my house which sits at the foot of the mountain you need to climb up to get there. This is the center of Anopolis:
Before you get to the center, on the left hand side is my cousin’s bakery:
She makes everything from scratch everyday. Her goods are delicious. She also harvests her own honey, which is life changing. Ask her to make you a Sfakian pie, stuffed with mizithra cheese from our cheese factory. 
Once you are at the center of Anopolis, stay to the left of the circle and then take the road to the right, you’ll be on your way. After passing about 10 houses, you will be at the foot of the mountain. If you see a black BMW with a Florida license plate, you’ll know you are in the right place, at my house! Stop in and say hi to my dad, George, and I bet he will cut you some 
This cheese is legendary! You can only get it in Crete. There is an entire festival held in August in its honor! I’m not kidding:
This is my uncle Andrea, who, with the help of my dad, makes the cheese:
Next thing you know, this will be your situation (by the way, you are supposed to dip the cheese in the honey!):
He may even take you out back and show you some of our goats! 
After fueling up for your hike, you will be on your way! The hike will take about 2 hours. Go straight through the gate below to start your Loutro hike, or stay on the path to the right, and climb up to the church at the top before heading down and on to Loutro.
If you chose to the visit the small church on top of the mountain, you will come through this gate. There are amazing views from up here.
After your visit look for this cross on the bottom of the small path leading to the church and across from this cross will be a rock that shows you the way.
You are heading here: 
If you opt for the easier route, you can take the 
The ferry leaves from here in Sfakia:
The ticket office is before you reach this landing:
Before you reach the ticket kiosk, there is a small ocean-side snack bar where you can stop in for a delicious gyro and wait for the ferry to arrive.
Once you board the ferry, in about 20 minutes, you will reach Loutro.
Most people walk the semi-circle and stop at the first beach. If you keep going all the way to the end, there is another beach next to some huge rocks, which offer nice snorkeling opportunities, and this beach is less crowded. There is also a snack bar right near the beach with a restroom. The water is cool and the beaches are rocky.
If you miss the ferry back or want to stay for a while, book a room at my family’s hotel on the island, and tell my cousin George that I sent you!
Also, there is no nude or topless bathing in Loutro.
If you are looking for long sandy beaches that are suitable for families with children and have an added bonus of ruins to explore, then you have found your paradise. Frangokastello is located in the prefecture of Chania. You can get here by bus, car, or boat. There are a few beaches you can visit in this area. The first is right at the foot of an ancient castle.
Either before or after the beach, make sure to stop in and explore the castle.
Are you still with me or have you wandered off into beach bliss heaven? Quite frankly, I couldn’t blame you if you have. As you can see, Crete is not lacking in the amazing beaches department. The waters are clear and a kaleidoscope of blues. The landscapes and backdrops surrounding the beaches aint too shabby either! But wait, there’s more! Here are a few other beaches that are also nice: Kournas Lake, Ombros Galos, Agia Roumeli (if you hiked the 
Last year, Lonely Planet published its Ultimate Travelist wherein it ranked the 500 best places to see in the world. 
When we arrived to Aguas Calientes, a representative from our hotel, the 
After three to five minutes, you will reach this bridge which you will need to cross to buy citadel tickets, to buy bus tickets, and to catch the bus:
This is the view from the other side of the bridge:
Once you cross over, keep on this narrow elevated street. If you already have citadel and bus tickets and need to catch the bus, or have citadel tickets but need to buy bus tickets and catch the bus, then at the end of this gate you will make sharp left turn and continue to the street.
If you need to first buy citadel tickets, then you will stay straight on the path above until you see this corner with the sign directing you to the right to buy tickets to Machu Picchu.
Stay straight on the road until you see this building on your right hand side. You can purchase your Machu Picchu tickets inside. At the time of this post, 
If you’ve reached this city square, then you went too far (about a block too far) and you need to turn around and look for the building above on your left hand side. On the day this picture was taken, not only was it raining, but a local cultural celebration was taking place which is why you see a uniformed band.
Once your tickets are purchased, back track to the elevated road from the picture above, but instead of going up that road, stay to the right to go down to street level. If you took the sharp left turn above then you should already be at street level and you should see this ticket stand in front of you. This is where you buy bus tickets. If you notice, it is right underneath the bridge that you just crossed.
The buses are located to the right of the ticket office as you face it from this vantage point or just behind the people who are purchasing tickets. Note, buses returning from the citadel will line up facing this ticket office on the side of the street that these people are on. Buses leaving to the citadel will line up on the side of the street that I took this picture from (or across the street from the ticket office) and will face away from the office. There is usually a line of people waiting to get on the bus. At the time of this post, the cost of a round trip bus ticket from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu is $24.00 per person, and must be paid in Peruvian Soles. The first bus leaves at 5:30 a.m. for the people who want to get in at 6:00 a.m. and see the sunrise. A lot of people have this on their bucket list, but don’t have your heart set on seeing the sunrise. A lot of times, the sun hides behind the cloud forest, but the nice thing about being there early is that it is not as crowded as it is between 10:00 a.m. and noon! The last bus leaves the citadel at 5:30 p.m.
The bus takes about 25 minutes to reach the citadel. The road starts out flat for about 5 to 10 minutes and then begins to climb an unpaved, winding mountain road. If you are scared of heights, like Chad is, don’t sit by the window; but honestly, it’s not that bad because the mountain is densely vegetated and there are only a few places from where you realize how high up you are. Below is a photo I borrowed from the internet that shows you the road up. You can always walk up if you want to, and 
When you arrive, you climb up a short flight of stairs until you reach the platform where the information office, entrance, and cafes are located.
This shot was taken in the afternoon after we ate lunch, which is why you see no line (more on that below). When we arrived at around 10:00 a.m., there was a line to get in, but it wasn’t terrible. We waited about three minutes to get in. It is worth noting that Sundays are the busiest days because on Sundays, Peruvians get in free!
There are no restrooms or places to buy water or snacks once you pass through these gates (although there is a “charging station”, a couple of plugs and some benches really, where you can charge your phone and other electronics located under a covered walkway just past the entrance), so make sure to use the restroom and bring water and snacks in with you. You can leave and return to the citadel three times per day with your ticket. The restrooms are located on the lower platform where the buses drop you off and cost 1 Sole to use. There are no paper towels to dry your hands, just hand dryers, and bringing your own toilet paper is a good idea. 
Don’t worry, that’s not the line to get into the bathroom. That is the line to get onto a bus and leave the citadel at noon, which is why you should stay and re-enter in the afternoon when the citadel is mostly empty!
Then, get ready to feast your eyes on the first glimpse of Machu Picchu as you walk through the covered walkway!
This is certainly not the best view of the citadel. It’s just the first view (but, it’s still pretty awesome if you are seeing it for the first time!). If you want the best view, you need to do about 10 to 15 minutes worth of climbing. If you are unable to do that, no worries; you can use the walkway shown below to walk into the ruins. There isn’t too much climbing (other than some stairs here and there) once you are in and walking through the ruins. 
If you want the BEST view, here is what you need to do. As you walk in and on your left hand side, you will see this small sign. If you aren’t looking for it, you will miss it.
Follow the upward path that leads to the guardhouse, bridge, and sungate. For those of you who want to hike up to the sungate or down to the bridge, you will need to go this way anyway.
The path is upward and has some stairs. In the morning, you will be following a line of people. In the afternoon, you will be pretty much alone. Stop and take some rest breaks if you need it. It is a moderate hike and it takes about 10 minutes to get to the vantage point. 
Eventually, you will get to the guardhouse, which offers this view: 
This picture was taken at the end of the guardhouse.
Guess what? This still isn’t the best view. Most people will stop here and start clicking away. If you walk past the guardhouse (which will be on your right), you will come to a landing, and this, my friends, is where you will find the money shot!
This is the landing of which I speak and from where these pictures were taken: 
Take a moment and enjoy the view because it is truly amazing and you worked hard to get here!
Oh, and while you are here, don’t forget to whip out your freshly stamped passport and get some these shots! 
Now, there is one more level that you can climb up to which is just behind you and is really just a big step up. I don’t think it offers a better view, but I took some pictures from here too. By the way, if you are thinking that the landing below is the perfect place to take one those jump in the air pictures, think again. Jumping in Machu Picchu is strictly prohibited, and that is probably a good policy, you know, for your own safety and to protect the ruins. There are people watching, and they will blow the whistle.
Chad and I planned to do the sungate after our two hour privately guided tour of the citadel was done (by the way, I recommend taking a guided tour otherwise, you don’t really understand what it is that you are seeing, and you may miss some of the best parts). Specifically, we scheduled a guided tour of the citadel for as soon as we got there (our guide traveled with us from Ollantaytambo, but there are guides offering their services just outside the entrance too if you didn’t plan ahead), and then our plan was to exit for lunch, and then re-enter to do the sungate.
So, remember that line for the buses that I showed you before? It appears that most people come in the morning and are out of there by noon to 1:00 p.m. I say, stay at the citadel, eat your lunch there and then re-enter the citadel in the afternoon because when you do, it will be almost empty. It is like you have all of Machu Picchu to yourself. You could take the bus down, eat lunch, and then come back up, but that seems like a hassle and you have to pay for two bus transfers. If you only want to spend a half day at the citadel, and you don’t want to spend it with other people, come in the afternoon.
This is what the path to get up looks like: 
And this is the sungate: 
Apparently, the view from the sungate is this: 
In my opinion, the best view is the one I described for you above from the landing. It seems to be the only view that offers a complete view of the citadel. If you are doing the 
You will continue to meander down the terraces until you reach the main gate, which looks like this: 
Here are some of the highlights of the ruins: 
The 
The reflecting pools: 
The 
The only other sites of significance which are missing from the above are the 
We spent the entire day at the citadel. We exited the citadel at around 4:00 p.m. (it closes at 4:30 p.m.), and Chad stopped to have a beer while we waited for the next bus down to Aguas Calientes. In case you were wondering, the beer he’s drinking is Cusquena. There are a few locally brewed beers in Peru; but, in Chad’s opinion, this Cusquena Golden Lager is the best Peruvian beer.
After a long day, it was finally time to check into our hotel, and upon arrival, we were pleased to learn that we had been upgraded to a suite! 
The hotel property is really nice. It has a village feel and is lushly landscaped. The property has 214 bird species on property and the world’s largest native orchid collection (372 species)! They also have a spa and a working tea plantation. You can enjoy guided bird watching or orchid walks, as well as a visit to the tea plantation, all of which are included in your stay. Breakfast and dinner are also included, and the common areas are very cozy. 
After dinner, we enjoyed our in-room fire place and some much needed rest! 
The next morning, it was pouring, so any hopes we had of re-visiting the citadel were washed away. Instead, we opted to visit the hotel’s Spectacled Bear Conservation Center, which, in concert with NGO Inkaterra Asociación and the Protected Natural Areas National Service, rescues these bears found in bad captivity conditions. The Spectacled Bear, also known as the Andean Bear, is the only bear species native to the Southern Hemisphere and was the inspiration for Paddington Bear! There are currently two bears in the habitat, and you make a small donation of approximately $10.00 per person to participate in this activity. It is well worth it and I highly recommend it!
After visiting the bears, we had a massage and then lunch before boarding the train back to Cusco. The train ride back is long, and apparently, after the meal, they feel the need to entertain you. All of a sudden music started playing and a costumed, Mardi Gras-like devil came dancing through the aisles. It was called 
And if that wasn’t enough, the costumed devil was the MC for a fashion show that the train attendants put on, modeling the items that you could purchase on-board from them, like wraps, ponchos, coats, sweaters, and scarves made from alpaca fur. They were literally using the aisle as a cat walk. It is one of the oddest things I have ever seen happen on transportation, and that is saying something, since I have seen some pretty wild things in my travels. 
At least Chad was amused!
And, to top it all off, when we arrived at the train station, more costumed Mardi Gras devils (male and female) were waiting on the platform for us, dancing around! I swear it was the oddest thing I have ever seen; but it had been such a long day that I didn’t even care because we had 45 minutes of driving ahead of us to get to the hotel!
