Guess what? It’s not too early to start planning your New Year’s trip. Actually, you should do it now. I know it’s June, but trust me on this one.
Let me back up a bit and fill you in on a new annual tradition that I started, well, this year. A couple years ago, I announced to Chad that I thought we should take a short, (relatively) cheap trip after Christmas and through New Years. At first, he rebuked the idea, as he always does. But, I eventually wore him down, as I usually do. I came at him with logic, reason, and facts (this, my friends, is one of the many consequences of being married to a litigator; the others were nicely summed up by a friend of mine from law school who is also a blogger: How Lawyering Made Me Crazy)!
Allow me to share my reasoning with you. First, we live in South Florida, and NYE in Miami is expensive. You are not going anywhere for under $200. Actually, $200 is a steal. If you are only paying $200, jump on it, and then lower your expectations to like below sea-level. As a result, we usually spend NYE at home with our dog, Toby, which is great, but not exciting (please don’t tell Toby, I said that!). Second, most people don’t travel internationally during this time, so you can find some pretty decent deals! Couple that with lower fuel prices which should (but, unfortunately, doesn’t always) mean lower airfare prices, and a strong U.S. dollar, and you have a recipe for a fab five-day to one-week trip abroad with minimal time off work! Awesome, right? I know!
For these kinds of trips, it is important to pick a city in which you can spend the entire time. This cuts down on cost and hassle. It is also important that the place you pick is a relatively quick and easy flight away so as to maximize your time. For our first NYE abroad, I knew Paris would be perfect! In my opinion, Paris is a five-day city. Also, the weather is pretty nice, especially for a South Florida girl who never gets winter during the actual winter. And, Chad had never been. Chad’s only rule for this new tradition I started was (and still is) that the entire trip (airfare, hotel, some meals, and all planned activities) had to be under $5,000.00 A travel challenge?!? I accept! If you are thinking that is a lot for a quick trip around the holidays, I feel ya, but remember, Chad and I don’t buy each other gifts all year.
Well wouldn’t you know, once my sister heard about our trip, she and her fiance decided to join us, and I suggested to them that they should take their engagement pictures while we were there! You are still welcome, Andrew! So we all, well, me really, got to planning, and the next thing you know, we were ready to go! However, there is one detail that I did not and, quite frankly, could not have accounted for, and that was the horrific terrorist attacks that occurred in Paris in November 2015, you know, like less than a month before our trip was fully, planned, booked, and paid for. So now it was decision time. After some thought, we decided to not live in fear, and we carried on with our trip, and I am so glad we did! Paris for New Years was amazing!
Day 1:
We stayed at the Hotel Pullman Paris Eiffel Tower. I chose our hotel based on one sole factor– proximity to the Eiffel Tower. For the next five days, I wanted to wake up and see the Eiffel Tower and go to sleep under the twinkle of its nighttime lights. Our hotel was literally the closest we could possibly get, and it was basically mere steps away from the Eiffel Tower. We chose high floor rooms with Eiffel Tower view. This was a worthwhile upgrade. Check out our day time and night time view:
Morning View:
Night View:
After dark, every hour, on the hour until 1:00 a.m., the Eiffel Tower sparkles for five full minutes:
At 1:00 a.m., the Eiffel Tower goes dark, and it sparkles for five minutes one last time:
Amazing, right?!?! Mind you, these are regular Iphone photos with no zoom. Our hotel was literally that close (and it had a pretty good American breakfast buffet with an omelette station included with the rooms, which, for me, is essential).
Upon arrival, I had planned a special surprise for Chad. You see, Chad is a good ‘ol Southern boy with a serious sweet tooth. He’s never met a sweet he didn’t like, and, quite frankly, he was looking forward to putting a hurtin’ on the Parisian pastries. I was too. So, I thought, what better way to do that than to have us a little picnic right there on the lawn of the Eiffel Tower (the Champ de Mars)? Did you know that there is a company that will deliver a picnic to you and even set it up for you?!? I was pleasantly surprised to learn about Paris Picnics, which I hired to do just that! Our picnic included a blanket, utensils, glasses, wine, bottled water, a large baguette, a delicious assortment of cheeses, charcuterie (cured meats), fresh salad du jour, artisanal crisps, seasonal fruit salad, macarons, and chocolate!
Lovely, right? I know! I don’t know about you, but as soon as I arrive at any destination, I am always starving, so this worked out perfectly. Also, we had a night tour planned, so we needed to fuel up!
After our tour, we stopped into this great little bistro right across the street from the Louvre called Le Fumoir. This is not a tourist trap. It is teeming with locals, and the food was great! It is also a great lunch spot before or after your Louvre visit!
Well, all of it was great except for this:
This is the most pungent and disgusting cheese I have ever had the displeasure of experiencing. You see, we each had a three-course pre-fixe menu. For the last course, you could order a dessert like a normal person would do in Paris or you can order a cheese course, like my sister, who doesn’t like desserts (you read that right) did. This is a huge point of contention between Chad and my sister. He cannot even begin to understand her anti-dessert position. Well, let’s just say that she paid dearly for that decision because she stuck a good chunk of this bad boy in her mouth, and it tasted (and smelled) like dirty, sweaty feet. I will spare you the nickname we gave this cheese because it is inappropriate for public consumption, but it is well-deserving of the name, and it will forever be known as such to us.
Enough of that. Let’s get back to the fancy! There is a reason they call Paris the City of Light. That reason is magnified times 1,000 during the holidays. When we were there, the City was still beautifully dressed for Christmas, and the Christmas markets were still open!
Sorry for the blurry picture, but as you can see, I was standing in the middle of a very busy intersection to get this shot, so…
SO MUCH SPARKLE! By the way, any city that hangs enormous twinkling crystal chandeliers outside of buildings and also suspends them in the middle of the streets is my kind of city!
Another wonderful thing about Paris during this time of year are the amazing shop windows that are decorated for the holidays! The department stores especially go all out (you’ll see what I mean in a moment), and the individual stores, especially the couture stores, have magnificent, interactive window displays that light up, have movable parts, and play music! These are best viewed at night, in all their lit glory!
I mean, who doesn’t need these boots! Not shown are the mechanical dolls that were singing and dancing in the window next door!
This Valentino window played the song and the window was cued to light up with the music! 
And this tree! I died! It is made up entirely of glass balls and is suspended from the ceiling in the literal middle of Galleries Lafayette!
Okay, let us all take a moment to catch our breath from this magical display of fantastic-ness, because this was only DAY ONE people! By the way, the Galleries Lafayette has a roof-top bar with a view, so park your non-retail loving partner here and get to work on the multiple levels of french fashions that are housed within, and do not forget to get your value added tax paperwork (more on that below). Photo creds go to my mom, who went to Paris four months after we returned:
Day 2:
On Day Two, we hired a private guide to take us all around the city. She had two jobs: 1) show us all the sites in (almost) every arrondissement in Paris and 2) feed us! She delivered.
First the sites. Of course we hit the major neighborhoods: the 1st Arrondissement, which contains most of the Paris must-sees, the Tuileries, Pont des Art, Place de Vendôme, and Rue de Rivoli; the 3rd and 4th Arrondissements (The Marais); the 5th Arrondissement (Latin Quarter); the 6th Arrondissement (Saint Germain-des-Prés); the 7th Arrondissement (Eiffel Tower); and the 8th Arrondissement (where the famed and ostentatious Avenue Montaigne (think major couture shopping) is located). During the tour, we saw sites such as:
The Arc de Triomphe
The Pont Alexandre III, Paris’s most elegant and grandiose bridge
The Moulin Rouge. We didn’t do the show because the party poopers (a.k.a., everyone but me) didn’t want to, but I have done it in the past, and it is worth experiencing it once. There is a dinner show or you can just come see the show. The dinner isn’t great. It is just okay. But you get the best seats with this option. And, BOOK IN ADVANCE, especially for NYE. More on the importance of this below.
The Sacre Coeur
And of course, on this day, we went up the Eiffel Tower. I cannot begin to express how absolutely imperative it is that you pre-buy entrance tickets to both the Eiffel Tower and to the Louvre Museum. It literally saves you HOURS of time, especially if you are going during high season. In fact, it is worth paying for a guide just so that they can get you through the guided entrances of these places. The lines are UNREAL. Our guide pre-bought our tickets, which included tickets to go up to the highest level. Once you get through the line (we literally breezed through), you have to wait in a line to take the lift to the second and third floors (or you can take the stairs; there is no line for that. Good luck with that one!)
This is the view from the outer portion of the second level looking out onto the Champ de Mars.
This is the view from the inside of the second level. You see that double line down there? That is the line to get in from the entrance for people who did not pre-buy their tickets. Keep in mind that this is 2:00 p.m. during low season! If you take away one thing from this post, please let it be to pre-buy tickets (and not eat that cheese, but more importantly, to pre-buy tickets, a.k.a., skip the line tickets).
Inside the Eiffel Tower, there are a bunch of shops and restaurants (including one good very highly rated Alain Ducasse restaurant called Le Jules Vern-book in advance and get ready to spend some coin) and even a champagne bar on the third floor! There is also a macaron shop that has an Eiffel Tower replica made of macarons!
And now for the food part of the tour! First, our guide took us to the chicest epicurean food boutique called Fauchon. In addition to having an amazing display of hand-crafted desserts, macarons, chocolates, a truffle bar, an amazing wine cellar, and the most delicate tea sandwiches that look like edible works of art, they have a tea selection that is literally out of this world. Teas from all over the globe in the most swoon worthy combinations and fusions, displayed on a wall in the prettiest tins that you ever did see. These make fantastic gifts, and they are only available in Paris. As in, you can’t order them online. Trust me, I tried.
After a quick stop here, we moved on to the original Laduree to devour fresh macarons and more pastries! Now, you probably think that Laduree makes the best macarons. I know I did, and let’s be honest, it’s a pretty damn good macaron. By the way, did you know that the McDonald’s in Paris serves macrons made by Laduree? I didn’t either. However, that all changed the moment I discovered the dream that is Pierre Herme. Trust me, these are the finest macarons that will ever cross your lips. You will dream of these light fluffy macarons for the rest of your macaron-lovin’ life! More on that later. Let’s eat Laduree!
Our guide saved the best for last. Take notes people, because this next gem is worth the trip. If you even maybe like ice cream then do NOT, I repeat, do NOT, leave Paris without visiting Berthillion. Berthillon is a French manufacturer and retailer of luxury ice cream and sorbet, with its primary store on the Ile Saint-Louis. If there is such thing as haute couture ice cream, then this is it. It has a menu of the most tantalizing flavors: fig, salted caramel (which is their most famous), pear, coconut, dark chocolate. I literally was losing my mind.
When we went there was no line (probably because it was literally 50 degrees outside), but there usually is a line; like a long one. I borrowed a picture form the internet to show you. But, trust me, stand in it. Even if it is an hour long. The ice cream is that good.
While there are other shops and restaurants that serve Berthillion’s ice cream, go visit their original location. It is tiny inside with no place to sit. You literally order, move down the counter, pay, move down the counter, pick up, and then roll out.
We were four people. We ordered six double-scoop (mine was triple!!!) ice creams in cones and cups (get the cone!) just because we couldn’t decide on the flavors. I got pear, fig, and dark chocolate. We, of course, tried the salted caramel, too, and the coconut. All of them were phenomenal!
After all that eating, we needed in a nice, long stroll in one of Paris’s famous public parks. Now, they may not look like much in the winter, but in the spring, when the flowers are in bloom, they are magical! Here we are in the Jardin du Luxembourg.
By the way, on this day, we stopped for lunch at L’Opera Restaurant, which is the restaurant located inside the Palais Garnier, which is also a must see as it is stunning inside. I tried to get tickets to see a show, but none of the ballets running at this time were of interest. In hindsight, I should’ve just gone anyway because it so grand and beautiful inside (photo creds to my mom’s #travelsquad).
And, the restaurant…
The restaurant served a pretty good three-course pre-fixe menu with wine which was reasonably priced by Paris standards. And, as if this day wasn’t awesome enough, it ended with a couture bang!
You see, every time I go to Europe, I buy myself one (well, mostly just one) swoon worthy handbag (and sometimes some shoes), and for this trip, it was the Celine Belt Bag. Why do I wait, you ask? Let me tell you why– especially when the dollar is strong against the Euro (like it has been lately and was when I went), buying European designer bags in Europe (or shoes or clothes or perfume or whatever) is cheaper than buying it in the States. First, the actual ticket price is cheaper. So, while the large Celine Belt Bag will set you back over $3,000 in the U.S., in Paris, the large is just over 2,000 EU or approximately $2,500 USD. Second, in the U.S. you pay tax on the bag. You do too in Europe (it is built into the sticker price), but since you don’t live in the EU (I am, of course, assuming you do not live in the EU), you get your tax back through a glorious program called the V.A.T. (value added tax) global refund program. Consider it an additional percentage discount! The rate of return differs by country and there is a minimum that you must spend in each store to qualify (p.s., this only works on NEW goods, and not on the goods sold in the fab Parisian consignment shops) but in France, the VAT is about 20% and the minimum spend is 175 EU. Also, if you use a credit card on which you accumulate points, you are winning all around. I like to use one that does not charge foreign transactions fees and, unlike American Express, is universally accepted. My favorite is the Capital One Venture Card. TIP: Make sure you call your credit card companies before you travel to let them know exactly when and exactly where (as in each city and the date you will be in each) you will be traveling so that 1) they don’t stop your card and 2) they monitor for fraud after you have left.
There are some other important rules. First, you must ask for the paperwork at the time of purchase. For the retailer to complete the paperwork they will need your passport or a photo of it (bring the photo!). They should give you a form with your receipt and you will need both at the airport. Rarely, you will find a store that processes VAT in the store. I have yet to come across such an establishment. Second, retailers choose whether to participate in the VAT-refund program, so look for the sign or ask! Third, the official rule is that you must present the new, unworn item with the documents at the VAT office at the last point of exit from the EU, regardless of where you made your purchases, so if you are traveling around Europe, make sure you know which countries are and are not in the EU (for example, Switzerland, Norway, and Turkey are not in the EU). This part becomes tricky. In Paris, it is a breeze. The VAT office is located near the Air France counters as soon as you walk into the airport, so BEFORE you check your luggage and pass through security. Make sure to leave PLENTY of time to get through as there are LONG lines of mostly Asian women who bought up all the couture in Europe. When it is your turn, present your passport and the item with the document, get your stamp, fill out the document, seal it, and drop it in the box. Now you can check your bags and go home. Your refund should post to your card within two billing cycles, unless the retailer works with a refund service, like Global Blue. In that case, you can visit their offices inside the airport, and they’ll give you your refund in cash on the spot, for a small percentage fee.
If the VAT office is located in the secure area (i.e., after you check your bags and go through security), you must carry the item on with you. For me this is never a problem as I always carry on new, expensive purchases. Also, most of the European airports have fantastic duty free shopping inside the international terminals which avoids this entire mess! The only problem is that the stores are smaller (I have yet to see a Celine, but all other major houses are represented- Chanel, Prada, Gucci, Hermes, etc.) and selections within them are limited. Anyway, happy shopping, and check out my new bag!
Day 3:
It’s NYE day, and we set this day aside to explore the Louvre (with our pre-bought, skip the line tickets as per above). Quick note here, check the holiday hours for the sites you are visiting if you go around Christmas, New Year’s, or a national holiday of that country. While the Louvre was open on NYE day, it was closed on actual New Year’s day (but the Musee D’Orsay was not!). Also, you should know, that even with the skip-the-line tickets, you will still stand in line. Likely a long line. Not as long as the regular line, but still pretty long- at least 45 minutes (and that was in slow season). Even if you get there before they open. Because of this, and the sheer size of the museum, it is wise to take a guided tour. Then, you really skip the line! We got lucky and found some friends we made the night before already in line and they were kind enough to let us in, and we took them up on it because when we got there way before 9:00 a.m., the line looked something like this photo borrowed from the internet:
See that entrance right inside the pyramid. That is where you skip the line. Ridiculous. But, no worries if you don’t want a guide and can’t find line friends. I have some secret entrances for you. Mind you, the one I tried to use was closed that day (of course!!), but maybe you will have better luck! I found this on the internet and inserted it into the itinerary I made for myself. I am also including a list of the most important works to see in each wing:
ALTERNATIVE ENTRANCES:
For pre-purchased tickets, use Passage Richelieu, just off the Rue de Rivoli across from the Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre métro station.
Take the Métro to Palais Royal/Musée du Louvre. Enter the museum from underground—directly from the Métro station.
For shorter line, try the Carrousel du Louvre, which can be accessed off the Rue de Rivoli or by going down the external stairs to either side of the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel. This is not for pre-purchased tickets, but is an alternative to the top. Enter the shopping mall, go down the elevator and the Louvre entrance is to the left.
Porte des Lions entrance provides direct access to the Arts of Africa, Asia, Oceania, and the Americas, but it is only open sporadically, and not at all on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Friday. The Porte des Lions is in the SouthWestern wing of the Louvre just before the Jardin des Tuileries. If you’re at the Louvre with your back to the Pyramid and facing the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel (the little Arc de Triomphe) walk across the street, under the Arch and then turn to your left. Go to the across the grass and follow the Louvre wall almost to the far end of the Louvre. Look for the arched doorway with the lioness statues flanking it. (see map below)
MAP OF ALL ENTRANCES:
WORKS TO SEE WITH LOCATIONS:
|
DENNON WING |
Da Vinci: Mona Lisa (First Floor) Where: Denon Wing, 1st floor, Hall 6; Virgin and Child with Saint Anne. Veronese: Wedding Feast at Cana (in Mona Lisa Room). Where: Denon Wing, 1st floor, Hall 6 Consecration of Emperor Napoleon I (in Mona Lisa Room). Daniele Da Volterra: The Battle of David and Goliath. Look in the center of the corridor. The surprising feature about this painting is that it can be looked at from the back, kind of like a sculpture! Where: Denon Wing, 1st Floor, Hall 8 Botticelli: Frescoes (Venus and the Three Graces Presenting Gifts to a Young Woman). The Winged Victory of Samothrace (top of the staircase) Michelangelo’s The Dying Slave and Rebellious Slave are on the ground floor sculpture gallery. Greek, Etruscan, & Roman Antiquities: Venus de Milo (at the intersection of the Denon Wing and the Sully Wing). 19th century French Paintings: Delacroix’s Victory Leading the People. Where: Denon Wing, 1st Floor, Hall 77 |
| SULLY WING | Greek, Etruscan, & Roman Antiquities: Venus de Milo (Ground Floor at the intersection of the Denon Wing and the Sully Wing).
Sphinx Hermaphrodite; Where: Sully Wing, Ground Floor, Hall 17 The Statue of Aïn Ghazal- oldest work in the Louvre; Where: Sully Wing, Ground Floor, Hall D A small gathering of beautiful impressionist paintings by masters such as Monet, Degas, Pissarro and Sisley! Where: Sully Wing, 2nd Floor, Hall C
|
| RICHELIEU WING
|
No big name works, but has 2 sculpture gardens on the ground and lower floors (housing the Marly Horses) and Napoleon III’s apartment on the first floor.
Second floor of the Richelieu wing has many works from master painters such as Rubens and Rembrandt. Some of the most notable works are the Lacemaker from Jan Vermeer and the Virgin of Chancellor Rolin, a 15th century work by the Flemish painter Jan van Eyck. Lunch possibility: Café Marly located in the Richelieu wing of the Louvre. Dine indoors or on the terrace. |
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Also, check the websites of each museum you plan to visit. Each museum is closed one day of the week and is open late on at least one night of the week. The lines tend to be better with later entrance times, and the galleries start closing 30 minutes prior to the museum’s closing time. For example, the Louvre is closed on Tuesdays, but is open until 9:45 p.m. on Wednesdays and Fridays. Here are the highlights from our visit:
But the best part was lunch! There is an Angelina’s Cafe inside the Louvre Museum, located in the Richelieu wing just outside the Napoleon III apartments. Angelina’s is known for their pastries and their famous hot chocolate!
Did you know that if you spent one minute looking at each of the 35,000 works of art exhibited in the Louvre, it would take you 64 days? What’s my point? Have a plan! You wont see it all, so prioritize what you want to see or take a guided tour of the highlights. While the Louvre is certainly the most visited museum in the entire world, it is not my favorite in Paris (I am a fan of French Impressionism, think Van Gogh, Monet, Pissaro, Degas, Sisley, and Renoir). The Louvre has more Renaissance era works, which Chad loves.
After your visit you have a few options (that is, if you still have stamina!). You can access the Arc de Triomphe via the underground footpath, you can visit the mall and food court in the basement of the Louvre, or you can (and I suggest this option) exit the museum, walk through the Jardin des Tuileries, and find the Musee de L’Orangerie on your left, which rarely has a line and which houses two rooms of panoramic walls covered with Monet’s Water Lilies. This often overlooked gem is a must see – Monet himself designed the exhibition halls in Musee de L’Orangerie for optimal presentation and viewing of these specific works – and you can get through the entire exhibit in under 30 minutes. It is fantastic, and these pictures don’t come close to doing them any justice!
After concluding our visit, Google maps told me we were mere steps (this turned out to be a little bit of a lie; I think Mr. Google meant blocks!) from a Christian Louboutin (my favorite shoes!), so we popped in for a visit to the store on Rue du Faubourg, and found a ferris wheel of shoes! By the way, don’t be surprised if you have to wait in line to get in. Indeed, you should be surprised if you DON’T wait in line, especially for the original store. They only let a few people at a time (about 5 to 6, depending on sales person availability) and you are assigned to a personal shopper while you are there. 
In case you were wondering what my sister and her fiance were up to on this day, let me show you:
They were taking their engagement photos! This was a great idea on my part, and I am taking full credit! There are many photographers that do this. It costs about 300 EU for the photo session, and you pick three locations. You also get all the rights to your photos on a CD and an online gallery. Turn around time is two to three weeks. If you want to hire day-of hair and make-up people to come to your hotel, that will run you (approximately) another 300 EU.
By now it was time to get back to get ready for our NYE dinner at the Michelin starred, Le Violon d’Ingres, which was one of the only decently priced pre-fixe menu splurge restaurants (relatively speaking for Paris) that I could find (at approximately 400 EU per couple), and trust me, I tried hard (one place wanted 1,200 EU PER PERSON WITHOUT ALCOHOL!). The food was great, the ambiance was nice, and the service was attentive.
This was the 1200 EU option:
We rang in the New Year in what we were told was a fairly subdued celebration considering the tragedy that had recently occurred in this city.
Day 4:
There is nothing like starting the New Year off with a little travel and a little culture, so that is what we set out to do today. While most sites and restaurants were closed today, the Musee D’Orsay was not. So, with pre-purchased tickets in hand, we waltzed right through the doors as soon as they opened! You can get through this museum in about two to three hours, depending on how much time you spend in each gallery.
The famous clock is located on the third floor just outside of the main exhibition halls that have many works from Monet, Renoir, Degas, and Pissaro.
A former train station, this is the most architecturally beautiful museum in Paris, in my opinion.
Highlights from the third floor collections include:
If you love Van Gogh, like I do, then don’t miss this museum as the entire side of one of the wings on the second floor is pretty much dedicated to his work:
One of the only other things open and available to do on NYE day was a dinner cruise along the Seine River. Yes, this is a little touristy, but it was a nice way to see the sites lit up at night and get a different perspective of the city. Also, after much research, we determined that this company ran the best tour with the best food: La Calife.
While we were there, we learned about another cool dining on the go experience called Bustronome. Apparently, it is a high-end double decker bus with a panoramic glass roof. They serve you a three-course lunch or dinner while driving you by the sites of Paris. Some friends we met (you know, the ones that let us cut the line at the Louvre) told us about it. They had done it, and said it was fantastic. You must book in advance, though. Lunch is about 65 EU and dinner is about 100 EU.
Day 5:
It’s our last day in Paris, and we wanted to make the most of it, so we started it off with a visit to the Picasso Museum with our pre-bought tickets. There was no line, and we got right in. Here are some highlights:
The best part about this museum (which you can get through in about two hours), is that it is located in/close to the Marais District, which is my personal favorite. There are tons of beautiful local shops, cute little local restaurants, and this is Paris’s perfume district. This district is also a short Uber ride (that’s right, Uber, which is readily available in Paris and a great way to get around the City. You just need wi-fi and your app. If you are like me, you travel with your own wi-fi hot spot!) away from rue du Bac, which they should just rename to Sugar Heaven Avenue because we came upon a dessert mirage on this tiny street!
Now, if you have a sweet tooth, pay attention to this next part:
The absolute best macarons I have ever tasted, with the most interesting flavor combinations I have seen, come from here:
If you like chocolate, boy are you in luck because right next door is Pierre Marcolini luxury chocolates:
But across the street is where the real gem is. It’s called Chocolat Chapon, and it has a chocolate mousse bar made from chocolate from around the world!
But maybe chocolate isn’t your thing. I mean, I don’t get it, but you are entitled to your own taste. So, if that is the case, then do not miss Aux Merveilleux de Fred, the fanciest and most decadent meringues and cream puffs ever. Not only is the shop gorgeous, but the puffs are heavenly! Sorry about the blurry picture, but I was in a sugar coma at this point so it looked clear to me!
Here is a better shot from the internet:
By then end of the day, we literally couldn’t move. We ate so much. But, we had one last stop to make, and if you love Monet, you will not want to miss this museum: Musee Marmottan Monet. They have a basement FULL of Monet! You can skip the upper floors and just go straight to the basement. It will take you about 30 minutes to get through the whole thing, and it is time well-spent.
Alas, our trip came to an end, but if we had some more time, here are a few day trips that we would have definitely done: a day tour to Normandy, a day tour to the Palace of Versailles, a day tour to Monet’s garden at Giverny, a day tour to Paris’s champagne region, and a day trip to Avignon and Provence (during lavender season, of course!). My mom did the first three, and here are some highlights from her trip:
Normandy:
Palace of Versailles:
Giverny:
So, where are Chad and I off to this year to ring in 2017? Well, I guess you will just have to come back and find out! But, I will tell you one thing, it is already planned and partially booked! Until then, arvoir and bon voyage to you!
If you have ever thought about crossing the pond to visit London, now is the time. London is Europe’s New York. It is a city that never sleeps with 24-hour restaurants and lots to do. It has history, sites, world class museums, an dynamic dining and foodie scene, theater, and some of the best shopping. It is surprisingly walkable. The whole country speaks English (obviously). And, contrary to popular belief, the weather is pleasant (when Chad and I were there it only rained one time and only for a few short hours in the afternoon). It is perfect for families (i.e., European Spring Break anyone??), for couples, for girls’ trips, for solo travelers, for first-timers to international travel, and for long weekends. That’s right, I am suggesting you go to Europe for a long weekend. Why not? You are going to live those days anyway, might as well live them at a destination. But here is the best part: it’s affordable!! I bet you never thought that London and affordable would be used together in the same sentence where affordable was the adjective for London. But, thanks to 
On the way there, she told us about the 
From there we proceeded to 
From there, we took the garden route to the palace, where we happened upon the filming of the 
Charley timed our visit perfectly so that we would catch the 
The 
It starts with a band and then there is a whole lot of procession! 
We got the pom-pom hats! 
And the red coats! 
And it culminates in a parade around 
Unfortunately, 
While 
You are on your own to see the jewels, and it is a pretty quick little exhibit, culminating in this beauty:
If you like contemporary and modern art, then head to the 
If art is not your thing or you only have the time (or patience) for one museum, then make it the 
Our visit was focused on seeing the Parthenon Marbles, because unfortunately, Greeks have to go to London to see artifacts that belong in Greece. The Parthenon Marbles, more commonly known as the Elgin Marbles, are a collection of 
The British government has given numerous excuses over the years for why they won’t return the marbles, including that Greece did not have a proper place to display and care for them. So, Greece built the 
The pub culture is strong in the U.K., so you kind of have to visit a local pub to get a true flavor of the city. You can stop for a casual meal or just for pints.
And, you simply cannot leave London without first having fish and chips. It’s like the national dish. 
If you want fine dining, then there is no lack of options. The city is teeming with Michelin starred restaurants and hard to snag reservations. We chose 
But if you’ve got a sweet tooth and an affinity for pink, then it’s 
We also did an afternoon tea at 
If you are after high-end fashions, then 
But if you prefer to stroll charming little streets lined with posh boutiques and a quaint little flea market, then a visit to 
So there you have it. As you would expect, London offers everything you could ever want in a city vacation – no matter what your particular tastes, interests or budget may be – and, best of all, you can do it all in as little as a long weekend! So, do yourself a favor and hop across the pond and see for yourself. Cheerio!
It seems like everyone went to Iceland in 2016. Instagram was littered with photos of the Blue Lagoon and the Northern Lights. Facebook and travel magazines touted the cheap airfares to Iceland and relatively short travel time. At least one person you know went to Iceland in 2016 (hell, even the Kardashians went!), and we were no exception. In early 2016, after returning from our New Year 2016 trip from Paris, I decided that we would spend New Years 2017 in Reykjavik, and I went into full research and planning mode.
The first thing you should know about the Reykjavik Food Walk team is that they are uber (as in, “super,” not the car service!) friendly, responsive, and accommodating. They respond to emails and are happy to give you suggestions and recommendations both before and during your stay. They will even help you secure dinner reservations (which, you will find out in my next post, are crucial if you want to actually eat anywhere in Reykjavik). I found them an absolute pleasure to work with and would recommend this tour to anyone (actually, I insist that you take it). It really is a great way to orient yourself to the city, while eating some great local favorites.
Each of the 13 nights, children place a shoe in their bedroom window. If they were good all year, they will find a treat in their shoe the next morning. If they were bad, they will find a rotting potato. Also, if Icelandic children don’t receive and wear a new article of clothing on Christmas Day, the Christmas Cat will come and eat them! The Yule Lads are descendants from Gryla, an ogress who lives in the Icelandic mountains. She also eats bad children! I think this is why Icelanders are so nice! Growing up, all they hear is about how they are going to get eaten if they are bad. Anyway, if you are interested in these folk tales, you can learn more about them 
During the four-hour tour, you will also taste 13 traditional dishes, including Icelandic lamb soup, 
You know what else I learned on this tour? If you ever you planned to go to jail, make sure you go to jail in Iceland. First of the 300,000 people in Iceland, only 89 are in jail. Also, until recently, the jail was located in this quaint little building in downtown (no bars, just views for days!):
You get a room with a view! Also, if you have a job and have to support a family, no problem! You can just check yourself out of jail and go to work and home for dinner as long as you check yourself back in at a reasonable hour! (Who is the arbiter of reasonable? I don’t know, and they don’t either!) But, you know what the BEST part is about jail in Iceland? On Sundays, they take the prisoners out for ice cream!!!! Not a bad deal, right?
Day 2:
For some reason, these people were there in traditional viking garb, but we didn’t mind because they made for great photos!
Up next was the amazing Reynisfjara beach, better known as the black beach. But, this is no ordinary beach. You CANNOT swim here. The wind is wicked strong and the waves are the most insane waves I have ever seen in my life. Like ever. In fact, tourists are warned to not stand too close to the shore, because more than one has been swept away by the swell and drowned. 
When BAE matches the beach: 
Seriously, these waves though… 
Our final stop was to the 
Day 3:
There is something surreal about being in your bathing suit in the snow and freezing cold. 
Our day didn’t end with the Blue Lagoon. After a short nap, it was time to eat dinner at what is considered Reykjavik’s best restaurant and hardest reservation to score, Dill. 
Dill serves classic Icelandic fare with a modern twist. It is a small place that offers two tasting menus. We had to do the shorter menu, because the weather had cleared up, and this was the first day since we arrived that the 
And here is what you get with a professional camera, with the right lens, set to the correct settings, and resting on a tri-pod:
Day 4:
You also visit 
And, you stop at the 
But, perhaps my favorite part was an impromptu stop to meet the friendly 
They are so friendly and cute, so please do not eat them!
This was the perfect way to spend the last day in 2016! But, we had a whole evening of celebration ahead of us, which began with arguably our favorite restaurant in Iceland – Apotek. We came here first on the last stop of our food tour to enjoy a delicious dessert made by their pastry chef, who is so talented that he is the official pastry chef to the government of Iceland. Honestly, I understand why they chose him. We came back for NYE dinner, where we enjoyed a delicious pre fixe 5-course dinner with champagne for under $200 USD for a couple. On NYE. This, by the way, was one of the cheapest meals we had in Iceland. That’s not a joke. 
At midnight, we took to the streets to see the
And, of course, no NYE celebration is complete without a late night snack from Iceland’s most famous hot-dog stand! Bill Clinton (and the Kardashians) ate hot-dogs here. 
Day 5:
Booking the tour was super easy. The Elding team is very responsive to emails and very accommodating to its passengers. We made our way to the harbor and easily found Elding’s office for check-in. Just down the road from their office is the dock where you can find their boats. If you are worried about getting sea sick, they have a bowl full of Dramamine (both in the office and on-board), and you are free to help yourself!
Once on board, you are issued a jumpsuit which doubles as a life suit and an extra layer of warmth because it was freezing out! Check out this sexy #OOTD:
The boats are triple deckers, with the first deck being the internal cabin which is equipped with restrooms, a snack, bar, and barf bag stations! The second and third floors are exterior. The boat has a guide and spotters who do the work of finding dolphins and whales for you. As I mentioned, the day we went, the seas were very very rough, but the staff was very attentive and helpful to passengers that were not feeling well.
The tour lasts for about four hours, and while we did not get to see any whales, we did see 
Since we didn’t get to see whales on our tour, I was curious about what the tours that do get whale sightings get to see, and Elding was kind enough to provide me with photos taken from some of their other tours where whales were spotted, including humpback whales, 
In addition to whale watching tours, Eldin also offers fishing tours, northern lights tours, and, when in season, tours out to 
For the remainder of the afternoon, we walked the city streets to admire the street art and to visit the inside of the Hallgrims church, including a climb to the top of the clock tower to get some amazing views of the city!
Thus ended our five-day adventure in Iceland. We had such a beautiful time. I hope this post inspires you to plan your own trip to this (mostly) unspoiled nature lover’s paradise. Be sure to check out my future posts on Iceland to help you get ready for your trip. And, as always, I’d love to hear from you. Send me an email or leave a comment if you have any questions about this trip or Iceland in general.
Once upon a time, four friends graduated law school and real life began. They moved all over Florida, got jobs, got married, and half of them had kids. Gone were the carefree days of Gainesville, Florida (Go Gators!). Now, if the four friends want to get together, they have to coordinate schedules, clear calendars, take time off work, consult with husbands, and hire babysitters. But that is okay, because, once a year, the four friends do just that. This year, they convened in Savannah for three (mostly) carefree days of exploring, shopping, and eating.
We got into town in the early afternoon, and, since we were all starving, we made a beeline to 
If you get there early enough on a weekday, you may want to line up for 
Our next stop was to 
For dinner, we headed over to 
After dinner, we walked over to 
Day 2:
After breakfast, we had a full day of exploring ahead of us! When you think Savannah, think antebellum architecture, historic cobblestone squares, and Spanish moss. There are so many quaint little streets and shops to explore. Once you visit, you will understand why Savannah is chosen as the backdrop for so many movies. 
The Forrest Gump feather flew by this steeple at the beginning of the movie: 
If you love old, historic homes, then this is the town for you.
Iconic Jones Street: 
The Mercer Williams House:
If you like to shop local, you will love Savannah. In addition to cute (but pricey) clothing boutiques and some great home decor stores (like 
If you like your chocolate fancy, then head over to 
Speaking of honey, 
They have a honey tasting bar:
For lunch, you could plan a picnic in 
Sadly, summer is officially over. But that’s okay, because it’s never too early to plan for next summer, and I am here to help you with a little Greek Island inspiration. As you may already know, I am Greek. What you probably don’t know is that my dad lives in Greece on the island of Crete in a small village called Anopolis. Nestled in the White Mountains, Anopolis is a village of Sfakia, which is located in the southwestern part of Crete and is a prefecture of Chania.
I dare you to find a beach that is more visually stunning than Balos Beach. I mean, it is literally shaped like a heart because you fall in love with it as soon as you feast your eyes upon it, which is good since getting here can be a challenge.
I HIGHLY recommend that you get here early (like before the ferries start coming in). There are very limited parking spaces relative to the number of visitors. Once the parking lot fills up, they park you on the side of an unpaved mountain road with no guardrails (it’s pretty interesting to have to make a three point turn to turn the car around to leave), and you have to walk the rest of the way, which, depending on how many people are there that day, could be a long walk. For us, it was 10 minutes, and that was just to get to the path that takes you to Balos Beach. This was the parking situation at noon:
If you have to park outside the lot, you will have to walk towards the lot to reach the path that takes you to Balos Beach. That path takes another 30 to 40 minutes. It is also unpaved and there are stairs at some parts. It starts out flat and then you climb down stairs to get to the beach (which means you climb up to get back!), so I suggest you plan very carefully for what you bring with you to the beach, and, do yourself a favor and wear sneakers, hiking shoes, or water shoes. Now is not the time to be cute! You will instantly regret flip flops. And, it’s hot! Put on sunscreen, drink water, eat protein bars, wear a hat, and just survive! The good news is that you can take a Donkey Taxi more than half way (both to and from the beach) for about 4 Euros. The great news is that you get the most beautiful pictures ever. The path to the beach begins where you see this sign:
The road starts out looking like this, and you’re all like, what’s the big deal:
About half way, it turns to this: 
But, before it gets to that, you see this:
You’ll know when you’re there when you see this, like a shining oasis: 
Sweet relief! 
This is the lagoon side:
The water is shallow and cool, and the sand is pink!
If you didn’t do it on the way in, on the way back, you’ll probably be like: 
Otherwise, it’s this: 
Elafonisi Beach is also found in the prefecture of Chania, about 47 miles from Chania. There is a main beach and a islet that is joined by a sand bar. To get to this beach, you can drive and park in a dirt lot just off the main entrance to the beach or take a cab or 
Once you park, you will see a bunch of snack carts and a small beach restaurant. Walk towards the action to get onto the beach. Just before you get onto the beach on the left, are a series of four trailer toilets (American style) that clean, stocked, and cost 1 Euro to use. This will be your view as you step onto the beach:
This beach is crowded, and there are chairs and umbrellas for rent, but it is also so large that you can literally escape the crowds.
To do that, you can walk through a shallow water pool/sandbar and go through the nature preserve part:
Where you will find a much less crowded beach: 
The sand here is also pink: 
Because I feel like my pictures really don’t do this beach justice, I did a Google search to find you some better ones that really capture this beautiful beach, and 
Is this real life?!? It is in Crete! This is Preveli Beach, which is located in the prefecture of Rethymnon, by the Preveli River and the famous palm forest. As with all the good Cretan beaches, there’s the easy way and the hard way to get here. The easy way is to take a boat from Plakias or Agia Galini. The hard way is to drive. From Plakias, you will drive to the Preveli Monastary, and about a mile before you reach the monastery, you will park your car and walk down a seemingly endless amount of steep stairs that lead to the beach. The best pictures are on this route. Apparently, you can also drive a dirt road leading to the nearby village of Drymiskiano Amoudi and walk a short 5 minute path to the beach. There are places to rent kayaks if you want to kayak down the river to get to the beach. Full Disclosure: I have not yet been to this beach yet (so this photo is borrowed from good ole’ Mr. Google), but it is on my list for when I return to Crete in May, so I will update this post then.
About 13 miles from the city of Chania, you will find this gem. To get here, drive towards Chania airport, and turn left towards village Chordaki and then follow the signs to Rizoskloko. Signage will lead you to the beach. The road is paved all the way, but the last part of the road is a small, winding mountain road with no guardrails. You will come to an area where you can leave your car, and then you set out on foot for about 15 minutes down a steep path of stairs to get to the beach. The beach gets very crowded in season, so go early. Also there are no amenities on this beach, so if you need it, bring it. The photos of this beach are brought to you courtesy of my god-sister, fellow wanderluster, and Cretan beach expert, Roula.
There are only two ways to get to this beach, which is located in Sfakia (where I am from) in the prefecture of Chania and literally translates into Sweet Water Beach- 1) drive, leave your car on the side of the road and walk this path about 30 minutes to the beach or 2) come by boat via the water taxis from Sfakia or Loutro. The beach is rocky and there is a small snack bar in the water perched on some rocks, but the water is crystal clear and cool.
Like Elafonisi, Falasarna Beach, which is also located in the prefecture of Chania, is made up of several sandy beaches. Because it is on the west coast, this is a great beach to catch the sunset. The easiest way to get here is to drive the hour from Chania; otherwise, you can take the public bus, which runs routes during tourist season.
If you were brave enough to hike 4 hours through the Aradaina Gorge, guess where you ended up? Right here! Truthfully, you came to a road that had a passage for a steeper road down to the water which lead you here. This beach is also in Sfakia, about 53 miles from Chania. You can drive here (park your car up top on the side of the road and walk on down that steep path) or take a public bus to Sfakia and then take a boat over. There is a small tavern on the beach and a few umbrellas and sunbeds, but that is about it. There are some great caves to snorkel in, but the water is very deep.
If you want to visit a true beach town, head to Loutro, in the prefecture of Chania. There are no cars here and no roads, just beaches, hotels, tavernas, and shops. There are only 2 ways to get here: 1) by foot and 2) by boat. You have to be a serious hiker to get here by foot. If that is you, take the bus (or drive) to Sfakia. You can start your hike here. In fact, you can visit Glyka Nera (number 5 above) first as you can start your hike here and the same trail will end at Loutro. This is a long hike and will likely take 3 or more hours. Alternatively, you can come to our village (Anopolis) from Sfakia, and start your hike basically from my house which sits at the foot of the mountain you need to climb up to get there. This is the center of Anopolis:
Before you get to the center, on the left hand side is my cousin’s bakery:
She makes everything from scratch everyday. Her goods are delicious. She also harvests her own honey, which is life changing. Ask her to make you a Sfakian pie, stuffed with mizithra cheese from our cheese factory. 
Once you are at the center of Anopolis, stay to the left of the circle and then take the road to the right, you’ll be on your way. After passing about 10 houses, you will be at the foot of the mountain. If you see a black BMW with a Florida license plate, you’ll know you are in the right place, at my house! Stop in and say hi to my dad, George, and I bet he will cut you some 
This cheese is legendary! You can only get it in Crete. There is an entire festival held in August in its honor! I’m not kidding:
This is my uncle Andrea, who, with the help of my dad, makes the cheese:
Next thing you know, this will be your situation (by the way, you are supposed to dip the cheese in the honey!):
He may even take you out back and show you some of our goats! 
After fueling up for your hike, you will be on your way! The hike will take about 2 hours. Go straight through the gate below to start your Loutro hike, or stay on the path to the right, and climb up to the church at the top before heading down and on to Loutro.
If you chose to the visit the small church on top of the mountain, you will come through this gate. There are amazing views from up here.
After your visit look for this cross on the bottom of the small path leading to the church and across from this cross will be a rock that shows you the way.
You are heading here: 
If you opt for the easier route, you can take the 
The ferry leaves from here in Sfakia:
The ticket office is before you reach this landing:
Before you reach the ticket kiosk, there is a small ocean-side snack bar where you can stop in for a delicious gyro and wait for the ferry to arrive.
Once you board the ferry, in about 20 minutes, you will reach Loutro.
Most people walk the semi-circle and stop at the first beach. If you keep going all the way to the end, there is another beach next to some huge rocks, which offer nice snorkeling opportunities, and this beach is less crowded. There is also a snack bar right near the beach with a restroom. The water is cool and the beaches are rocky.
If you miss the ferry back or want to stay for a while, book a room at my family’s hotel on the island, and tell my cousin George that I sent you!
Also, there is no nude or topless bathing in Loutro.
If you are looking for long sandy beaches that are suitable for families with children and have an added bonus of ruins to explore, then you have found your paradise. Frangokastello is located in the prefecture of Chania. You can get here by bus, car, or boat. There are a few beaches you can visit in this area. The first is right at the foot of an ancient castle.
Either before or after the beach, make sure to stop in and explore the castle.
Are you still with me or have you wandered off into beach bliss heaven? Quite frankly, I couldn’t blame you if you have. As you can see, Crete is not lacking in the amazing beaches department. The waters are clear and a kaleidoscope of blues. The landscapes and backdrops surrounding the beaches aint too shabby either! But wait, there’s more! Here are a few other beaches that are also nice: Kournas Lake, Ombros Galos, Agia Roumeli (if you hiked the 
